The 1920s, often called the Roaring Twenties, was a transformative era marked by social, political, and cultural shifts. This period, sandwiched between the end of World War I and the onset of the Great Depression, witnessed a rebellion against tradition, the rise of jazz music, and a newfound sense of freedom, particularly for women. Fashion, especially hairstyles, played a pivotal role in reflecting and driving these changes. Let's embark on a fascinating journey to explore the iconic hairstyles of the 1920s and the flapper culture that defined the decade.
The aftermath of World War I had a profound and irreversible effect on society, culture, and fashion. At the dawn of the 1920s, the world was still reeling from the conflict, leading to a desire for simplicity and a rejection of the elaborate styles of the past. Twenties fashion is often remembered for its glitz and glamour, though underlying this was a move toward simplicity in dress.
Essential to these new styles was a simplicity that had not previously been seen in women’s fashion. This simplicity created the popular tubular “la garçonne” look that dominated much of the decade.
Also known as the flapper, the look typified 1920s dress with a dropped waist and creeping hemlines that could be created in economical fabrics. Coco Chanel helped popularize this style and was a prominent designer during the period. The "La Garçonne" look, meaning "the boy" in French, embraced a boyish silhouette with loose-fitting dresses that de-emphasized curves. This androgynous style challenged traditional notions of femininity and reflected the changing roles of women in society.
Skirt Hemlines Rose Shins Were on Show Nary a knee was on show during this era (it’s a common misconception that flappers wore dresses above the knee) though the daring flapper might have flashed them whilst seated! Hemline historians cite 1926 as the peak of this trend, with dresses and skirt hemlines rising; at first, skimming the ankles, then up the mid-shin, then just below the knee. All the while, flesh-colored stockings sheathed the leg.
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Slick and sumptuously understated, Chanel’s 1926 little black dress in a crepe de chine was entirely modern. The look embraced black as a fashion color after a long and sorrowful history as the hue to mourn in. Plus, the LBD's unfussiness was a striking departure from previous modes. Fabric-wise, the silhouette Chanel put forth could be constructed in a variety of textiles, encouraging a democratization of couture look as it was very re-creatable. The look was such a mainstay; the little black dress was appropriate for day and eveningwear; jersey by day, chiffon by night-chic all day long!
Perhaps the most recognizable symbol of the 1920s is the bobbed hairstyle. Even before F. Scott Fitzgerald cemented the bob as the ’do of the decade in his much-read short story “Bernice Bobs Her Hair,” published in May 1920 in The Saturday Evening Post, the bold were test-driving the cutting-edge look. Cutting hair short was a radical departure from the long, flowing locks that had been the norm for centuries. This bold move represented a rejection of traditional beauty standards and a celebration of freedom and modernity.
Hairstyles kept getting shorter first with the shingle and then with the Eton crop, but like hemlines, as the decade drew to a close, women were starting to grow their hair longer again.
The fashionable lady of the 1920s wouldn’t step outside without her hat. Come nightfall, however, she’d leave it behind. Following the craze for oversized pancake hats in the 1900s, the 10s and 20s saw a gradual shrinking of ladies’ hats into the coche style. Popularized by milliner Caroline Reboux in 1908, the hat style gets its name after the French word for “bell.” It was also the perfect pairing for the bob-a helmet-like hat for a helmet-like haircut.
Think of the descriptor of flapper as being synonymous with trendy. The flapper look was the prevailing trend, and flappers were those girls who dressed the part. But it’s a term with a bit of a backstory-some thought the term referred to youths who opted to unbuckle their galoshes, letting them flap with each step. Others trace flapper back to a Victorian term used to describe (clutch your pearls!) young prostitutes. It took some consideration to rebrand flapper. In 1917 Vogue titled an article “The Term ‘Flapper’ Carries No Stigma.” By 1920, Frances Marion released the film The Flapper, starring Olive Thomas and the rest was history. Every girl wanted to be a flapper.
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Flappers shrugged off their chaperones, danced suggestively, and openly flirted with boys. "Flappers prized style over substance, novelty over tradition, and pleasure over virtue."
The flapper lifestyle was closely intertwined with the rise of jazz music. Women could be seen frequently dancing the Charleston and going out on their own. The Charleston, a lively and energetic dance, became a symbol of the era's carefree spirit.
Clara Bow, a famous 1920s film star, showed off her lipstick and ignited other women to follow in her footsteps. Eyebrows were plucked nearly completely off and filled in with dark pencil, and dark red lipstick accentuated the “Cupid’s Bow” of the woman’s lips. In addition, using dark eyeliner around the entire eye was common.
Their accessories weren’t just cloche hats and small embroidered purses; they were controversial items, like feather boas and cigarette holders. Women also carried cigarettes in decorated and extravagant cases, which were designed in the art deco style. In addition to controversial accessories, women could also be seen wearing fringed scarves to keep them warm.
As womenswear valued simplicity in the 1920s so, too, did menswear. Men moved away from starched collars and formal three-piece suits during the day. Instead, they adopted soft collars and one- or two-button suit jackets often worn without a waistcoat.
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Though many men looked to Britain generally for their sartorial inspiration, one man stuck out for his influence: Edward, Prince of Wales. Though later a controversial figure, in the twenties, the Prince of Wales was the good-looking, well-dressed son of the king who was often seen at parties in London. He had the reputation of a playboy but he was also known for his fashion sense and many men on both sides of the Atlantic aspired to dress like him.
The most significant development in men’s fashion occurred in two unique kinds of trousers: the Oxford bags and the plus-fours. Oxford bags grew in popularity around 1924-25 when undergraduates at Oxford adopted these wide-legged trousers. The other development in menswear in the twenties was the plus-fours. Plus-fours developed out of ordinary knickers - short-legged trousers that gather around the knee - and like Oxford bags were a bit baggier version of their precursor.
Children’s wear in the 1920s benefited from new technology and research into children’s development (Shrimpton 49). Freedom of movement and comfort were prioritized as the layers of previous decades came off and, much like womenswear and menswear, simplicity became key.
Many styles looked to womenswear for inspiration, though in the twenties, children’s wear was not just a miniature version of adult clothing (Grindstaff). There were modifications, but many popular styles for women in the decade already looked girlish, so it made sense to dress girls in similar styles.
The most important development in babywear during the decade was the rise of the romper which we might now refer to as a onesie, an example seen on the smallest model above (Fig. 3). “Rompers (first offered by Harrods in 1919) were revolutionary new garments - like small boiler suits, they had long sleeves, a yoked bodice and short knickerbockers.
The 1920s was a decade of unprecedented change and innovation, and its impact on fashion is still felt today. The flapper style, with its bobbed hair, loose-fitting dresses, and rebellious spirit, remains an iconic symbol of the era. The emphasis on comfort, simplicity, and freedom paved the way for modern fashion trends, and the influence of designers like Coco Chanel continues to inspire designers around the world.
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