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Afro Dreadlocks: A Cultural and Historical Exploration

Dreadlocks, also known as dreads or locs, are a hairstyle characterized by rope-like strands of matted hair. This hairstyle has deep roots in various cultures around the world, but it holds particular significance for the Black community. For centuries, Black people have faced discrimination because of their natural hair texture. Dreadlocks, as a prominent and Afrocentric hairstyle, have become a symbol of cultural identity, self-expression, and resistance against Eurocentric beauty standards.

Origins and History

The origins of dreadlocks can be traced back to ancient times and various regions across the globe. Discoveries of early forms of dreadlocks have been found in India and Egypt.

Ancient Civilizations

  • India: The dreadlocked deity Shiva, a prominent figure in Hinduism, has had a significant impact on Indian culture. Shiva, often depicted with long, beautiful dreads, served as an inspiration for millions of Hindus.
  • Egypt: Ancient mummies with intact dreadlocks and artwork featuring dreadlocked humans have been discovered in Egypt, indicating that dreadlocks have been around since the beginning of human history. Locks or braids have been found with the mummified remains of ancient Egyptians dating back as early as 3400 BCE. The dreadlocks of the extensions were attached directly to the natural hair or used to create a wig by fastening them to a mesh base, often made from narrow woven or braided hair.
  • Minoan Civilization: Early depictions of dreadlocks in Europe date back to 1600-1500 BCE in the Minoan Civilization, centered in Crete (now part of Greece). Frescoes discovered on the Aegean island of Thera (modern Santorini, Greece) portray individuals with long braided hair or long dreadlocks.

Religious and Spiritual Significance

Dreadlocks have also been associated with various religious and spiritual practices:

  • Rastafarianism: The Rastafari movement, which originated in Jamaica in the 1930s, played a crucial role in popularizing dreadlocks. Rastafarians view dreadlocks as a symbol of their religious beliefs, representing a connection to their African roots and a rejection of Western society.
  • Ethiopian Coptic Christianity: Ethiopian Coptic Bahatowie priests adopted dreadlocks as a hairstyle before the fifth century CE (400 or 500 CE).
  • Islam in Senegal: Cheikh Ibra Fall, founder of the Baye Fall school of the Mouride Brotherhood, popularized the style by adding a mystic touch to it. This sect of Islam in Senegal, where Muslims wear ndjan (dreadlocks), aimed to Africanize Islam. Dreadlocks to this group of Islamic followers symbolize their religious orientation.
  • Yoruba Religion: In Yorubaland, Aladura church prophets called woolii mat their hair into locs and wear long blue, red, white, or purple garments with caps and carry iron rods used as a staff. Prophets lock their hair in accordance with the Nazarene vow in the Christian bible. The Yoruba word Dada is given to children in Nigeria born with dreadlocks. Some Yoruba people believe children born with dreadlocks have innate spiritual powers, and cutting their hair might cause serious illness. Only the child's mother can touch their hair. "Dada children are believed to be young gods, they are often offered at spiritual altars for chief priests to decide their fate. Some children end up becoming spiritual healers and serve at the shrine for the rest of their lives."
  • Ashanti People: In Ghana, among the Ashanti people, Okomfo priests are identified by their dreadlocks. They are not allowed to cut their hair and must allow it to mat and lock naturally. Locs are symbols of higher power reserved for priests.
  • Southern Africa: Other spiritual people in Southern Africa who wear dreadlocks are Sangomas. Sangomas wear red and white beaded dreadlocks to connect to ancestral spirits.

Cultural Symbolism

In ancient times, long hair often symbolized age and wisdom. Within Black culture, dreadlocks and similar styles like braids provided a way to grow hair downwards, as natural Afro hair tends to grow upwards. Dreadlocks were also believed to hold power by interlocking the hair's energy, enhancing mental and physical strength.

Dreadlocks and Marijuana

The association between dreadlocks and marijuana can be traced back to Ras Tafari, an Indian man who founded the Rastafari movement. Ras Tafari, who sported long dreads, inspired many Black Jamaicans to follow his religious and cultural practices. He was crowned emperor of Ethiopia in 1930 and soon later was forced into exile for wrongdoings. His supporters refused to cut their hair until Ras Tafari was free. Ras Tafari also advocated for marijuana use, believing it cleared the mind and promoted clear thinking. This connection led to the association of dreadlocks with pro-marijuana culture, exemplified by iconic figures like Bob Marley.

Read also: Choosing the Best Afro Hairstyle

Dreadlocks in the Present Day

Today, dreadlocks carry a range of meanings and motivations. While they may not hold the same spiritual beliefs as in ancient times, they continue to represent cultural heritage and ancestral connections.

Individuality and Expression

Many Black individuals choose dreadlocks as a form of self-expression and a statement of uniqueness. Dreads have become popular among youth as a way to challenge conventional norms and societal expectations.

Resistance and Rebellion

Dreadlocks have also become a symbol of rebellion against societal standards, particularly in the corporate world, where they are often viewed as unprofessional or unconventional. The style gained traction through influential musicians and artists who defied mainstream expectations.

Growing Acceptance

Despite historical biases, dreadlocks are gradually gaining acceptance in corporate America and other professional settings, while still maintaining their cultural significance.

Cultural Appropriation

The use of dreadlocks by non-Black people is often cited as an example of cultural appropriation. Given the history of the hairstyle’s widespread origins, dreadlocks cannot be said to belong to one specific culture. However, given the close association of the hairstyle with Black culture and history in the United States, some advocates believe that when white Americans wear dreadlocks, it is a form of cultural appropriation-defined as when members of a majority group adopt cultural elements of a minority group in a way that is exploitative, disrespectful, or stereotypical. White people who style their hair in dreadlocks or other Black hairstyles are thus often criticized for cultural appropriation, as in the notable cases of pop stars Justin Bieber and Miley Cyrus and actor and model Bo Derek. In addition, some have criticized white wearers of dreadlocks, arguing that it illustrates white privilege, because white dreadlocks wearers do not face the same discrimination as Black people who adopt the hairstyle.

Read also: Afro Haircuts for Men

Hair Discrimination

Because dreadlocks have been regarded by some, particularly those animated by anti-Black racism, as dirty, unkempt, or unprofessional, people who wear them have faced discrimination in the workplace and at schools. According to the Legal Defense Fund, policies have been used to “justify the removal of Black children from classrooms, and Black adults from their employment” in the United States. In 2019 the Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair (CROWN) Coalition was founded to end race-based hair discrimination in the United States.

Formation and Maintenance

Dreadlocks can be formed through various methods, including:

  • Twisting: Twisting the hair strands to encourage matting.
  • Backcombing: Combing the hair backwards towards the scalp to create knots.
  • Palm Rolling: Rolling the hair between the palms to encourage locking.
  • Braiding: Braiding the hair and allowing it to mat over time.
  • Freeform: Allowing the hair to mat and tangle naturally without manipulation.

Health and Natural Hair

Dreadlocks were once believed to be the most natural and healthy hairstyle for people of color. With thick, coarse hair, the hair will naturally begin to lock together if left unpicked or uncombed. Dreadlocks are natural, and achieving long strands of hair requires minimal manipulation. Dreadlocks can be a low-maintenance hairstyle that retains moisture, promoting hair health.

Maintenance Tips

Maintaining healthy dreadlocks involves:

  • Using natural shampoos without detanglers.
  • Conditioning the hair regularly.
  • Using products specifically designed for dreadlocks.
  • Tightening each dread with a hook from the roots to the tips solidifies the dread along its entire length.
  • Massaging a treatment with aloe vera and peppermint into the scalp. This treatment refreshes and moisturises the scalp.

The Natural Hair Movement

The natural hair movement has played a significant role in challenging beauty standards and promoting self-acceptance within the Black community.

Read also: Is Keratin Right for Your Afro Hair?

Embracing Natural Hair

Millennials and Gen Z are reclaiming the narrative surrounding Black hair, and there is growing recognition and appreciation for natural hairstyles.

Dismantling Oppressive Notions

The natural hair movement aims to dismantle oppressive notions and promote a more just and inclusive world for future generations.

CROWN Act

In 2019 the Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair (CROWN) Coalition was founded to end race-based hair discrimination in the United States. The CROWN Act was created later that year by the coalition and cosmetics company Dove, in partnership with California state Sen. Holly J. Mitchell. Since then, 24 states and 40 localities have passed the act, which prohibits discrimination based on an individual’s texture or style of hair.

Dreadlocks Around the World

Dreadlocks have been worn for various reasons in many cultures and ethnic groups around the world throughout history.

  • Africa: The practice of wearing braids and dreadlocks in Africa dates back to 3,000 BC in the Sahara Desert. In West Africa, the water spirit Mami Wata is said to have long locked hair. Mami Wata's spiritual powers of fertility and healing come from her dreadlocks. West African spiritual priests called Dada wear dreadlocks to venerate Mami Wata in her honor as spiritual consecrations. Maasai warriors in Kenya are known for their long, thin, red dreadlocks, dyed with red root extracts or red ochre (red earth clay). The Himba women in Namibia are also known for their red-colored dreadlocks. Himba women use red earth clay mixed with butterfat and roll their hair with the mixture. They use natural moisturizers to maintain the health of their hair. Hamar women in Ethiopia wear red-colored locs made using red earth clay. In Angola, Mwila women create thick dreadlocks covered in herbs, crushed tree bark, dried cow dung, butter, and oil. The thick dreadlocks are dyed using oncula, an ochre of red crushed rock.
  • Australia: Some Indigenous Australians of North West and North Central Australia, as well as the Gold Coast region of Eastern Australia, have historically worn their hair in a locked style, sometimes also having long beards that are fully or partially locked.

Famous Dreadlocks Wearers

Dreadlocks have been sported by numerous influential figures across various fields:

  • Music: Bob Marley, Snoop Dogg, Lenny Kravitz, Ani DiFranco, Erykah Badu, Stevie Wonder, Zack de la Rocha, Lauryn Hill, Lil Wayne, T-Pain, J-Cole, Wiz Khalifa, Chief Keef, Lil Jon, Navio, Delivad Julio, Fik Fameica, Vyper Ranking, Byaxy, Liam Voice.
  • Acting: Whoopi Goldberg, Zendaya, Lisa Bonet, Jason Momoa.
  • Sports: Al Harris, Richard Sherman, Ricky Williams, Chris Ivory, Jamel (“Ja”) Morant.
  • Literature: Alice Walker, Toni Morrison.
  • Art: Jean-Michel Basquiat.

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