Hair has always been a powerful form of self-expression, mirroring the cultural, social, and political climates of different eras. From the practicality of wartime styles to the extravagance of the rococo period, hairstyles have consistently reflected societal values and individual desires. The bouffant, with its voluminous and elevated shape, stands as a testament to this dynamic relationship between hair and history.
The bouffant's origins trace back to the late 18th century, specifically the 1770s and 1780s, in the opulent courts of Europe. Marie Antoinette and her hairstylist Léonard Autié were instrumental in popularizing voluminous hairstyles. These extravagant updos were often adorned with feathers, flowers, and even elaborate miniature scenes, such as a model of a ship commemorating a French naval victory. These lofty styles reflected the rococo artistic movement, which celebrated femininity, elegance, and ornamentation. The rococo is characterized by asymmetry, ornament, elegance and pastel colors. These early bouffants, along with similar styles like the pouf and pompadour, became symbols of the upper socio-economic classes.
After the French Revolution, the bouffant fell out of favor, associated as it was with the aristocracy. However, the late 19th century saw a revival of the bouffant during the Belle Époque. American illustrator Charles Dana Gibson played a key role in this resurgence, popularizing the "Gibson Girl" aesthetic, which featured a bouffant hairstyle as part of its idealized image of feminine beauty. The hairstyle was revived through the concept of feminine beauty created by American illustrator Charles Dana Gibson, who popularized the aesthetic of the Gibson Girl as one of the first forms of pin-up beauty in the late 19th century.
The bouffant made a significant comeback in the 1950s, coinciding with the rise of rockabilly culture. British stylist Raymond Bessone is often credited with its revival in women's fashion. Extreme volume then began to resurface in the 1950s with the introduction of rockabilly culture. "The hairstyle started [taking off] in the late '50s with the Teddy Boys and Teddy Girls in London," McKnight said. That style was nicknamed the pompadour, so called after Madame de Pompadour, the royal mistress to Louis XV who wore her strands curled and pinned backward. By the end of the 1950s, people's hair kept getting bigger and bigger thanks to the invention of hairspray, until you had the oversize styles that we've come to associate with the bouffant today. The bouffant first surfaced in the 1950s, reflecting a return to big hair for women following a period of plain wartime styles. The popularity of the bouffant hairstyle in the 1950s was greatly strengthened in the United States when the First Lady, Jacqueline Kennedy, frequently appeared with a low bouffant in the form of a bob cut. First lady Jacqueline Kennedy's (1929-1994) adoption of the hairstyle in the early 1960s helped popularize it even more.
The 1960s marked the bouffant's most iconic era. The hairstyle became the traditional look for American housewives in the 1960s as it was often used to create a taller appearance for the wearer. The word bouffant has its etymological origin in the French word bouffante, which is the present participle of the French verb bouffer, meaning to puff or fluff up. With this intention, a variation of the bouffant known as the beehive emerged. Around that time young girls took the bouffant to new heights with a style called the beehive. Teenagers would set their hair every night in huge rollers, using a gel solution called Dippity Do, and proceed to sleep in them. Some women even wrapped toilet paper around their heads at bedtime in order to preserve the increasingly ornate, sculpted styles. By 1964 hair spray had become the nation's number one beauty aid, surpassing lipstick. Those with extremely curly hair used large frozen cans in place of the smaller rollers.
Read also: Hairspray Buying Guide
Bouffants began to catch on in the United States following a Life magazine article touting the “aristocratic” European look. Hair on the top of the head was often raised by backcombing or "teasing" it with a comb to create a pile of tangled, loosely knotted hair on the top and upper sides of the head. Usually, hair spray or hair lacquer was applied as a finishing touch to stiffen the hairdo and hold it in place without the need for hairpins. During the 1960s, the bouffant gained notable popularity among musical personalities, especially members of girls groups performing R&B, bubblegum pop, soul, and doo-woop music. "In the '60s [the bouffant] was the look of all the pop stars - Dusty Springfield, The Supremes, The Ronettes - it was very rock 'n' roll." Some groups that adopted the bouffant in the 1960s included The Supremes, The Ronettes, The Shirelles, and Martha and the Vandellas.
In the mid-1960s the fashion tide began to turn toward more natural hairstyles. Women who had spent hours teasing their hair just a few years earlier now began ironing it in an effort to achieve optimum straightness. Although their popularity during the early 1960s was immense, bouffants and beehives proved difficult styles to wear, involving extensive preparation and a great number of tools. The bouffant soon became a comical symbol of an earlier era. The outrageous beehive was mocked in popular culture by the flamboyant rock band The B-52s and in the film and Broadway musical Hairspray.
Despite its decline, the bouffant never truly disappeared. With its origins in rock 'n' roll, it's no surprise that the bouffant has continued to be popular among musicians well into modern times. In the late '70s you had Cindy Wilson and Kate Pierson of The B-52s (the band name actually refers to a particular beehive hairdo resembling the nose cone of the aircraft), Amy Winehouse and Adele in the early 2000s, and more recently, Lady Gaga, Dua Lipa, Andra Day, and Ariana Grande. "I guess when you get right into it, [the bouffant] was about showing off," said McKnight. "It was about saying, 'Anything you can do, I can do higher, I can do bigger, I can do bluer.' And the rock world is all about excess, and all about doing it bigger and better than the next person. It definitely can have a competitive edge."
The film "Priscilla" premiered on Oct. Since then, we've seen bouffant after bouffant on the red carpet courtesy of stars like Dua Lipa, Anya Taylor-Joy, Ariana Grande, and Aimee Lou Wood. The "Farrah Fawcett" trend re-introduced a bit of glamour into our routines over the pandemic, but now another leading lady from the early aughts is shining a light on hairstyles from the past. Extremely popular in the 1950s and '60s, this style (which comes from the French word bouffante, meaning puffed out) is a hairstyle that's raised high on the head and features a rounded shape. Iconic bouffant wearers of the past include people like Brigitte Bardot and Lisa Marie Presley, but besides singers like Amy Winehouse and Adele adopting it as part of their musical personas, the hairstyle has never truly made a resurgence since the mid-20th century. Spring 2015 runways confirmed that 1960s beauty trends are indeed on the rise. Besides from winged eyeliner, one of my favorite 1960s beauty looks is the bouffant.
Part of the bouffant's appeal, regardless of what era you're living in, is that adding volume to the top of the head creates a very flattering silhouette. "I think a bit of height always makes people feel a bit taller, and a bit grander, and a bit more 'done,' if you like," McKnight said. He added that you might make it super coiffed and dramatic or play it down a bit and make it more casual depending on your personal style. "It's all about the silhouette, so it's a style that works for pretty much everyone, regardless of hair texture."
Read also: Beach Waves Hairstyle Guide
A bouffant can be worn with an updo, a ponytail, or a half-up hairstyle. "The modern way to do them is to have it kind of undone and not too perfect," McKnight said. "I think when it's a little bit punky - when the texture is not too finished and not too curled and set - and you're really concentrating on getting that volume on top, then it doesn't matter if there's a few hair pins showing and it's falling out a little bit." However you wear it, though, the key is to build up volume.
To re-create the look at home, start with a light wave, which means breaking out a large curling iron if you have straight hair, or blow-drying your hair smooth if you have curly hair. If you're looking for a quick way to go about it, blow-dry three sections of hair at the top of your head and roll into three large Velcro rollers, leaving the hair to completely cool before removing them. Next, mist your roots and the hair at the crown of your head with texture spray, like Hair by Sam McKnight Easy Updo Spray ($30). Separate hair at the top of the head into slim sections and backcomb gently with a comb. Smooth the surface with a soft bristle brush, create your style (updo, ponytail, or half-up), and finish with a final mist of hairspray. To get the look, which gives you Texas worthy volume and height, tease the hair at the front and sides of the head, then comb up and over the teased hair, fastening it in back. Pull the front hair back, and the sides towards the center, pinning them if necessary, to give it a neat look.
The 1920s marked a significant shift in women’s hairstyles. As women gained more independence, they embraced shorter, more practical haircuts. The iconic bob became the symbol of the flapper era, with women cutting their long locks into chin-length styles.
The 1930s saw a return to softer, more feminine styles. Romantic waves and curls dominated the decade, with women opting for longer hair than in the previous era. Popular 1930s hairstyles included finger waves, pin curls, and Marcel waves.
During World War II, women’s hairstyles became more practical, with many working in factories. In the ‘40s, women were encouraged to use their hair to ‘fix’ any flaws in their face. If she had perfect, shiny hair with a good color, she should use it to frame her face. If a thin face was her problem, her hairstyle should be down and over her ears to make it look wider. It was important to keep women’s 1940s hair clean and shiny, washing it whenever necessary. A woman would also massage her scalp and brush her hair twice a day. Hair care was a time consuming task. With so many women in the 1940s going to work in factories and taking time off to get their hair done, factory managers put in their own beauty salons. This reduced the time women were away from work and improved the morale of employees. For time in between beauty appointments, women either wash and styled their hair at home or covered up dirty hair with a scarf, turban, or large hat.
Read also: Short Hair Finger Waves
1940s women’s hair was usually worn shoulder-length or a little bit longer, cut in U or horseshoe shape with no bangs. Second, they were never, ever perfectly straight. Curls and volume were in style, especially above the forehead and on the ends (rolled under). Hairdos almost always started with wet setting pin-curls at night and were styled from there the next morning. Women would follow a pattern curling hair into small circles. In the first half of the 1940s, hairstyles were rather short with tight ring-curls and some waves forming around the face. Hair from the back of the scalp was pushed to the edges to bring even more volume to the tops and sides. The early 1940s hairstyle look was overall short, practical, and curly, with maybe a wave or two to shape the front. These styles favored small hats and military uniform hats. Curly hair could be cut in a full circle, like a halo or longer on top with chin to shoulder length.
1940s mature women’s hairstyles favored long hair (a tradition since their childhood) that was gathered in the back in a low bun. The hairstyle looked short since all hair was gathered up away from the face. By 1943, the shoulder length cut was preferred by most women. Hair was set in pin curls, then brushed out in the morning. Half the hair was gathered up top and with the ends rolled under to give volume above the forehead (teasing and hair padding helped too). The one-third to half up half down hairstyle dominated the first half of the 1940s. Many Pachucas, female Zoot Suiters, adopted the half up look, adding even more height to their hair. When the bouffant tipped back over the forehead it became a a pompadour. The voluminous hair on top was at its peak in 1944. Another technique to gather hair up high was to roll the sides around two fingers and pin them in place, roll and all. The Victory Roll were not easy to achieve, at least in a style that lasted all day. 1940s Victory rolls could be single but usually double with one on each side of the head. They could also be rolled to the very top of the head. If left on the side, the top of the hair was styled with equal fullness. 1940s hair roll variations included bumper bands, Gibson rolls, sausage rolls and others.
By 1945, women’s hair came back down off the top of the head. In fact, the opposite was now popular. The top hair could be pulled completely back or with a side part. Many women continued to have some Victory rolls or other top and side volume, but it was not as grand as the earlier years. Simple was in. Easy was in. The rest of the decade embraced easy hairstyles. Tops were smooth, waved, or flat. Sides and the bottom were full. By 1948, young women’s hair shortened up again to a shoulder or chin length bob. Curl was less significant and volume minimal. Younger women or those who favored longer hairstyles chose a basic combed curl set, or opted for a deep part to one side/center with hair pinned back past the temples. This was easy and youthful. Silver screen stars also favored long hair, which probably inspired young women to keep their hair long. Veronica Lake, Hedy Lamar, Gene Tierney, Lauren Bacall, and Rita Hayworth were just a few stars who had amazing long locks. Most were full of curl or natural wave, but others, like Ms. A pretty flower accented many updos.
In the 1940s evening, hair was gathered up and off the face and neck. In the early years, hair was piled high on the crown, just like daytime looks. It could also be rolled in one or several buns or braids for a sleek look. Snoods or hair nets were another iconic 1940s hair accessory, especially during WW2.
The victory roll, a rolled and pinned style, gained popularity.
The 1970s embraced a more natural look, with many people letting their hair grow long and straight. The hippie movement influenced this trend towards a more relaxed style. However, the decade also saw the rise of the iconic feathered look, popularized by Farrah Fawcett.
The 1980s were all about big hair. Perms, teased styles, and heavy use of hairspray characterized this decade. Mullets, side ponytails, and crimped hair also gained popularity.
The 1990s saw a move towards more relaxed, layered styles. “The Rachel,” inspired by Jennifer Aniston’s character on Friends, became one of the most requested haircuts of the decade.
The early 2000s were characterized by ultra-straight hair, often achieved with flat irons. Side-swept bangs, chunky highlights, and spiky updos were also popular.
In recent years, there has been a shift towards embracing natural textures and individual styles. From beachy waves to natural curls, the emphasis is on healthy, well-maintained hair rather than heavily styled looks. Today, we see a mix of styles from various eras, with people feeling free to express themselves through their hair however they choose.
tags: #bouffant #hairstyle #history #and #styling
