The Comb Over Side Part Haircut: A Comprehensive Guide
The comb over side part haircut is a versatile and stylish option for men of all ages. While often associated with attempts to conceal thinning hair, the modern comb over is a fashionable choice for those with a full head of hair as well. This article will provide a detailed tutorial on how to achieve and maintain a comb over side part haircut, covering everything from finding your natural part to styling variations.
Understanding the Comb Over and Side Part
People often ask what the difference between a Comb Over and a Side Part is, truth be told, there’s no straight answer. Despite the discrepancies in name, the premise of a Comb Over and Side Part remains the same - the top section of the hair is combed or swept to one side. The classic Side Part haircut is cut clean on the sides with a longer bang, usually styled back. Wear it neat and tight or relaxed and side swept. It’s perfect for every occasion.
Finding Your Natural Part
The best way to find your part is a bit more complicated than dressing to the left or the right: It turns out there is a correct side to part your hair on, but it varies from person to person. To begin, dampen your hair with a spray bottle. Comb your hair to part in the direction it naturally falls. Feel for your cowlick (the swirl near the crown of your head). If it moves in a clockwise circle, part your hair on the left. If its counterclockwise, you should part on the right. Most people have a single, natural “part” (or parting line) that runs from back to front on top of their head, usually to the right or left of center. Some people have two parts, on both the left and right sides. To the left or right side of the upper back of your head, you should find your hair patterned in a swirled shape. This is the starting point of your part in the back. If your hair has two parting lines, you’ll have two cowlicks in the back as well. As you drag your fingers through your hair from back to front along the parting line, the hairs will naturally fall to one side or the other of the part. Your part will still look a bit jagged at this point. If you’re going for a loose comb over, you’ll want it to keep this less-defined appearance.
Cutting the Hair for a Comb Over Side Part
Several steps are involved in cutting the hair for a comb over side part.
Side and Back Length
While the length of hair on the sides and neckline can vary, a classic comb-over shouldn't get too short: Start with a #2 or #3 buzzer setting and work up to a #3 or #4 on top. Select an attachment guard for your Wahl clipper that will give you a nice clean look around the back and sides, such as a #3 (3/8") or #4 (1/2"). Note that the hair on the sides and back of the head will stay shorter than the hair on top of the head. Start cutting in front of the ear and work around the head clipping in an upward motion. Then, using a longer attachment guard, cut the next few inches up. Using an upward rocking motion, blend in between the bottom and middle section. Note: do not clip the hair above the part.
Read also: Choosing the Right Straightening Tool
Top Length and Blending
Use the clipper-over-finger technique to cut the hair on the top of the head to desired length. Cut the bangs last. Use your clipper with a longer attachment guard to blend the rim of the head into the top of the head.
Styling a Comb Over Side Part
Styling is crucial to achieving the desired look for a comb over side part.
Step-by-Step Styling Guide
- Start with clean, towel-dried hair. Shower and lightly towel-dry your hair. It will be easier to find your hair’s natural parting line when it’s damp, but not soaking wet.
- Use a blow dryer on high heat for longer hair if you want added volume. Blow-dry your hair lightly to give it some extra volume. After your shower and towel-dry, use a blow dryer on a low setting to provide a bit more lift and body to your hair. Angle the blow dryer upward towards your hair and work it from front to back through your hair to add volume.
- Take a dime-sized amount of styling cream for a looser, casual look, or a water-based pomade it you want more shine and hold. Work the product into your hair, beginning at the roots and starting from the back of the head. Massage your preferred pomade through your damp hair. With your hair still damp after a shower and towel-dry, work a dime- to quarter-sized amount of pomade into your hands. Oil-based pomades usually provide a stronger and longer hold, but water-based pomades are gentler on your hair and much easier to wash out.
- For a clean part, run a comb lengthwise from the back of the head to your forehead, then separate the hair. For a messier part, just separate with your fingers. Hold the comb so that the teeth are parallel to and right above the ill-defined part line you’ve created with your fingers. Starting at the swirl in the back, drag the comb forward through your hair. Comb bangs at the part to style back to one side. If your part still isn’t as sharp and well-defined as you’d like, talk to your barber about styling options. After blow-drying and applying wax to your hair, you may need to use your fingers to create a loosely-defined parting line again. As before, drag them from your cowlick to your forehead to direct your hair to either side of the part.
Styling Variations
- Neat Comb Over: On the short side of your part (that is, the side that doesn’t cross over the top of your head), comb the hair primarily straight down and away from the parting line. This sleeker style tends to look better if you have an oval or square face shape. Work with a comb or brush to guide the hair mainly downward on the short side. On the long side, use a brush to sweep the hair to the side and back. Adding volume to your neat comb over can be a good choice if you have a diamond shaped face, since it can help balance out your facial features.
- Loose Comb Over: Even though it takes at least as much effort to achieve, you want a loose comb over to look a bit less styled and managed than a neat comb over. Work a pea- to dime-sized amount of hair wax into your hair. Unlike pomades, which provide a tighter hold and more sheen, hair waxes offer a more subtle hold and a more natural look. Use trial-and-error to figure out the ideal amount of hair wax for you. If it doesn’t hold the way you’d like or as long as you want, use a bit more. On the long side of your part-the side that crosses over the top of your head-sweep the hair back at an angle to provide some extra lift.
Comb Over Variations
- Traditional Side Part: The Traditional Side Part is all about the finish and balance. This Side Part features a ‘hard part’ or a shaved in part. This makes the parting stand out a little more and allows for a crisper finish. Another version of a Traditional Side Part, this time with a natural parting. The Barber, Chris Brownless, left this one intentionally a little rougher around the edges to allow the wearer to achieve a more casual finish to the polished cut.
- Side Part with Skin Fade: Another version of the polished Side Part, this time paired with a Skin Fade. Call it a Skin Fade, Bald Fade, Razor Fade - they all mean the same thing, a fade taken right down to the bone! Uppercut Deluxe Ambassador Ron Talley is responsible for this beauty.
- Side Part with Taper: A Taper is when hair is cut gradually reducing the length to form a gradient. This cut from Brandon Castaldi from Proper Barber Co perfectly exemplifies a well-executed taper. Here’s another example of a Structured Side Part where the taper is taken up higher.
- Textured Side Part: This Textured Side Part is a great example of a causal comb over that is is nice and loose, but could be spruced up for special occasions. To achieve the textured look without sacrificing hold, Featherweight is a great choice. If you like your hair looking natural and matte a comb over is a good option!
- Natural Pomp Comb Over: This Natural Pomp, cut by Mikal Zack of Lefty’s Barbershop, is a great example of a low maintenance comb over. Mikal left a little length in the fringe to create a little pomp with the comb over. This is another example of a combed over pomp, however, with a little more length. Our word of advice - looks can be deceiving with Natural styles like this - be prepared to use a blow dryer to get the perfect finish!
The Comb Over for Thinning Hair
The “comb over” often gets a bad rap as a 1970s hairstyle for hiding a bald spot on top. Today, though, the comb over is a popular and versatile style, both for people with thinning hair and those with a good 2-6 in (5.1-15.2 cm) of hair on top. Consider other bald hairstyle options first. Though it had a bit of a heyday in the 1970s, the classic bald comb over-that is, growing long strands of hair on top in a futile attempt to hide a bald spot-is strongly discouraged by most styling experts. In most cases, your attempt to hide your bald spot this way will only draw more attention to it. A “modern” comb over, which more subtly guides slightly-longer hair on top over spots where your hair is thinning. If you’ve decided that the bald comb over is the look for you, go for it! First, you’ll need to grow the hair to the inside of your part until it's long enough to span your bald spot. If you have a large bald spot on top that reaches to your natural part, you may need to force the part further down the side of your head. Work closely with a barber who has experience with bald comb overs-look for someone who deals with a clientele of middle-aged and older men, for instance. After showering and defining your part, take a fine-toothed comb to the long hair to the inside of your part. Unlike other comb overs, where you can sweep the hair both across and slightly back, you pretty much have to go straight across with a bald comb over. While you can try gels, pomades, or other hair products, hairspray is the traditional hair product of choice for the bald comb over. Even with a super-hold hairspray, wind is the enemy of a bald comb over.
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