Curly Hairstyles: Types, Cuts, and Care for Gorgeous Curls

Curly hair is a beautiful spectrum of textures, patterns, and volumes, each with its own unique characteristics and needs. Whether you're blessed with loose waves or tight coils, understanding your curl type is the first step to achieving your dream curly hairstyle. This article will guide you through the different types of curly hair, explore flattering haircuts, and provide essential tips for maintaining healthy, vibrant curls.

Understanding Your Curl Type

The most widely used curl-typing system was developed by hairstylist Andre Walker. It categorizes hair into four main types: straight, wavy, curly, and coily, numbered 1 through 4, respectively. Each category is further divided into subcategories (A, B, and C) based on the diameter and tightness of the curl pattern. Identifying your curl type is best done when your hair is soaking wet.

Type 2: Wavy Hair

Type 2 hair features a characteristic "S" pattern and lies closer to the head than curly hair. It can range from fine to coarse.

• Type 2A: This type has a subtle, barely-there wave that is easy to straighten. Lightweight products are best to avoid weighing the hair down.
• Type 2B: Type 2B hair lies flatter at the crown, with more defined "S" waves starting from mid-lengths. Strands are thicker than 2A and may require more effort to straighten.
• Type 2C: 2C waves are thicker and more prone to frizz, with the "S" bends beginning closer to the root.

Type 3: Curly Hair

Type 3 hair is defined by distinct curls, ranging from loose loops to tight corkscrews.

• Type 3A: 3A hair features broader, looser curls that are typically shiny.
• Type 3B: 3B curls are tighter and springier than 3A curls, with a circumference similar to that of a marker.
• Type 3C: 3C curls are tight corkscrews, about the size of a pencil or straw, and are densely packed, creating natural volume.

Type 4: Coily Hair

Type 4 hair, often referred to as "kinky" or "coily," is characterized by tight, small curls that form zig-zag patterns. This hair type is known for its shrinkage and can appear shorter than it actually is.

Read also: Comprehensive Lash Guide

• Type 4A: 4A hair has tightly coiled strands with a defined "S" pattern when stretched.
• Type 4B: 4B hair has a less defined curl pattern, with strands bending in sharp angles like a "Z" shape.
• Type 4C: 4C hair is similar to 4B but with a tighter, more compact zig-zag pattern and even more shrinkage.

Haircuts for Curly Hair: Enhancing Your Natural Texture

The right haircut can make all the difference in how your curls look and behave. It's essential to consider your curl type, face shape, and lifestyle when choosing a cut.

The Curly Bob

The curly bob is a classic and versatile choice that works well for various curl patterns. It frames the face beautifully and keeps curls manageable.

Layered Cuts

Layering is a great way to add volume, bounce, and definition to curly hair. Layers remove excess weight, allowing curls to spring up and create a more dynamic shape. For short hair that's shoulder length or shorter, and you want to create lots of volume or a rounder shape. Get the shortest layers cut to the level of the corner of your eye, or the top of your ear. If your hair is mid-length, just below the shoulders to bust-level. Then don’t get layers any shorter than the top of your jaw, or the bottom of your ear. If you want a more oval or diamond shape, ask for long layers down the length of your hair. The longer your hair is, the more definition and bounce you may lose if your hair is wavy or a looser curl pattern. If you’ve got long hair, from your bust level to your waist. Get layers from the chin-level down. But the longer your hair is, the more mindful you and your stylist need to be of density and weight. If you have fine density hair, you may need to sacrifice some length for fullness. This length hair works best for thick density hair, regardless of curl type.

Curly Pixie Cut

A curly pixie cut is a bold and daring option for those who want to minimize length while maintaining volume and bounce.

Long Curly Haircuts

Long curly haircuts are all about adding softness and movement while maintaining length. Layering long curls helps avoid the "triangle" shape and allows curls to flow freely.

Read also: Comprehensive Guide to Eyelash Extensions

Curly Mohawk

A curly mohawk is a statement haircut for those with a bold sense of style. Shaved sides and voluminous curls on top create a dramatic and edgy look.

The Curly Lob (Long Bob)

The curly lob is a balanced option that combines the length of a bob with the texture of curly hair. It's versatile, chic, and easy to maintain.

Tips for Communicating with Your Stylist

To ensure you get the best haircut for your curly hair, effective communication with your stylist is key.

• Bring Visuals: Taking images of other people’s hair you like or the look you want to achieve is great. But as any stylist will tell you, most of the time, the people in those inspo pics have completely different hair density, texture and curl pattern than the client. Which immediately makes things difficult for both the stylist and the client, because what the client wants isn’t achievable.
• Show, Don't Just Tell: Face the mirror straight on, and using your left arm, reach over your head and pull up the top section of your hair to create the shape and layers you want on your right side. Use your left arm to show how much hair you want taken off the length. Depending on your hair density, the top third or quarter of your hair is where all the shape and volume will come from. The rest is where you retain the length and blend it together. Do the exact same thing with the other side of your hair, and you can also do it at the back. This will immediately and clearly show your stylist the exact cut, length, shape and style you want. Better than any inspo pic, because it’s your hair. And you can both see how it will look on your hair length, density, texture and curl pattern.
• Specify Products to Avoid: Ask if you can bring your own products and avoid letting them use products that contain sulfates, silicones, waxes and oils on your hair. Bring your own shampoo, conditioner and styling products. Your curl towel, I recommend these ones from Aquis. And your diffuser - just in case.
• Be Specific About Techniques: Ask for layers, but avoid razors, thinning scissors or sliding scissors. UNLESS you’re looking for a textured, choppy look. Or your going for a shag cut, which is very on trend for 2021. And only ask for bangs, aka a fringe, if you’re absolutely 100% sure you want them!
• Consider Styling It Yourself: Don’t be afraid to ask your stylist if you can style your hair yourself after it’s been cut, if you’d prefer to do it yourself.

Wet vs. Dry Cuts: What's Best for Your Curls?

A common question among curly-haired individuals is whether to get a wet or dry cut. The answer depends on your curl type.

• Looser curl patterns (Type 2 and 3A): Even curl specialists are going to cut your hair wet.
• Tighter curl patterns (3B to Type 4): Because those tighter curl types have a lot of shrinkage and bounce from wet to dry. So when their hair dries, the shape and the length will look completely different to when it’s wet.

Essential Curly Hair Care Tips

Caring for curly hair requires a gentle and hydrating approach. Here are some essential tips to keep your curls healthy and defined:

Read also: Yorkie Haircut Guide

• Hydration is Key: "For 3A hair, hydration is key," says Latoya Moore, DevaCurl educator and owner of Elle Moore's Beauty in Brooklyn, New York City. "Use moisturizing products and leave-in conditioner regularly, and at night, use the 'pineapple' method, which is gathering hair into a loose high ponytail, to preserve curl shape and definition." O'Connor echoes Moore, emphasizing the importance of "hydrating shampoos, lightweight conditioners, and a leave-in cream to fight frizz."
• Avoid Sulfates: O’Connor explains that sulfate-free, moisturizing shampoos are key for keeping 2B frizz in check. NYC-based hair stylist Cheryl Bergamy agrees, urging her clients to keep an eye out for ingredients like coconut oil, which “penetrates deep into the hair shaft to strengthen and provide lasting moisture, helping to prevent breakage,” and avocado oil, because it’s “packed with vitamins (like A, D, and E) and fatty acids to nourish hair, add shine, and improve softness.” The right shampoo can make all the difference in keeping those waves smooth and spotlit.
• Co-washing: Between shampoos, 2C’ers can opt for a non-lathering, sulfate-free co-wash to avoid stripping essential moisture from strands.
• Detangle Gently: "The key to 3B hair is gentle handling, moisture, and using the right products to define and hydrate the curls," says Moore. "Detangle using a brush, your fingers, or a wide-tooth comb on damp hair to prevent breakage."
• Apply Styling Products to Wet Hair: "It's 100% better to apply any styling product-cream, gel, and/or mousse-on soaking wet hair," Kiana Rae, curl specialist and owner of West Coast Curls in Los Angeles, tells Allure. "Curly hair is more prone to dryness, so we require so much water. Curl-friendly products are activated with water, so [they] won't weigh our hair down."
• Trim Regularly: She stresses the importance of trimming 3B hair every three to four months to nix split ends.

Embracing Healthy Hair

Regardless of what length or shape you’re going for, make healthy hair your priority when it comes to a curly haircut. Especially now, as hair salons around the world have been closed for months! We could all do with at least 3-4 inches off the ends. If you’ve got 6 inches of damage, there’s no point in only cutting 4 inches off. You’re still going to have damaged ends. Cut just above the damage, and then follow my method and tips to maintain that health and focus on growth.

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