The quest for fuller, thicker, and more noticeable eyelashes is a constant pursuit for many women. The beauty industry offers a wide array of solutions, from eyelash extensions to serums and growth factors, all aimed at enhancing lash appearance. A 2018 Nielsen study highlighted the popularity of these products, reporting $270 million in annual sales of eyelash enhancement products, a 30% increase from the previous year.
This article delves into the various methods used to achieve the coveted "false lash effect," weighing the pros and cons of each, with a particular focus on safety and potential complications.
Eyelash extensions involve attaching individual or clusters of artificial lashes to the natural lashes using adhesive. While the results can be dramatic and long-lasting, it's crucial to be aware of the potential risks.
The most common false eyelash materials are mink, silk, and synthetic materials. Full-line, cluster, or individual eyelash extensions are applied using various adhesives agents. Adhesives used in lash extensions often contain formaldehyde and latex, both of which can trigger allergic reactions. Magnetic attachment methods are increasing in popularity and seem to be a safer option.
A 2012 study revealed that 97.5% of women who had eyelash extensions reported at least one complication after their treatment. These complications included dry eye, discharge, eyelid swelling, burning sensations, and itchy or tearing eyes.
Read also: False Lash Effect Mascara: Is it worth the hype?
From an ocular-health perspective, there are three main factors to consider when evaluating eyelash extensions: lash material, adhesive material and removal process.
Seek a Licensed Professional: Urge patients to seek out a licensed esthetician working in a hygienic environment and to steer clear of cheaply made products or self-applications.
Inquire About Materials: Advise patients to ask which materials are being used for both lashes and adhesives.
Patch Test: Since adhesives and solutions are not subject to FDA approval, counsel patients to first test the adhesives on their wrists before applying it to their eyelashes. This low-risk approach may identify a potential allergic or hypersensitivity reaction.
Hygiene: Advise patients about the heightened risk of infection with the use of false lashes. This is, perhaps, most important because false lashes are not normal anatomical structures and may cause poorer periocular hygiene.
Read also: Exploring False Eyelash Popularity
Routine Cleansing: The importance of routine cleansing regimen should be emphasized in order to mitigate this increased risk. Traditional methods for eyelid hygiene and prevention of meibomian gland dysfunction are appropriate: mild tear-free soap and water, OCuSOFT wipes and/or cleansing foam.
For those seeking a more natural-looking enhancement, serums and lash lifts offer alternative solutions.
Serums and growth factors, such as Latisse and Zoria, work to stimulate lash growth, resulting in longer and thicker natural lashes.
Lash lifts and perms are techniques that enhance the curl and prominence of natural lashes. These treatments involve a chemical perming solution and a shaping device.
One individual shared their experience with a lash lift: "I was nervous about having a lash lift, but after some research it seemed to be a safe option that offered a more natural-looking enhancement than extensions (for me the extensions were a bit too dramatic). I found a licensed esthetician in my area and made an appointment… The process was painless and took about 60 minutes. Occasionally I felt a slight tingling sensation at my lash line, but that was the worst of it… My results were significant and lasted for about six weeks. The best parts? No itching, redness, burning or tearing or adverse effects whatsoever."
Read also: Easiest False Lashes for Beginners
False eyelashes offer a temporary way to achieve a dramatic or subtle lash enhancement. They come in various forms, each with its own application technique and effect.
Individuals: Individual lashes are a great option if you want to give a subtle, all-over boost to the fullness and length of your natural lashes, or simply want to add definition in certain areas of the lash line. Individuals are usually available in sets of 30-60 strands of varying lengths, which makes them one of the best options for a customizable look. "With individuals, you have more control and you can become your own lash artist,” makeup artist and Tweezerman brow & lash ambassador Gita Bass tells Allure.
Clusters: Also known as "flares" or "accents," clusters work well if you're short on time or need a little more practice applying full strip lashes, according to Bass. “The little band on a cluster makes them easier to pop on the lash line, and they don’t lift on the corners like strips can.” Another great thing about clusters is that they can be strategically applied to create a variety of looks. “I’ll often add a few clusters on the corners to create a cat-eyed effect,” says Bass.
Strips: When people talk about false lashes, odds are they’re most likely referring to strips, which - as their name suggests - are a horizontal band of faux wisps that are worn across the entirety of your upper lash line. “Strip lashes work well as long as you find a style that suits your eye shape,” Bass recommends. “Rounder eyes look great with a winged or demi lash on the outer corners, while deep-set eyes need a slightly longer lash to be visible. Hooded eyes benefit from a lash that is longer in the middle.”
Magnetic: Relatively new to the scene, magnetic false lashes are the makeup world’s answer to anyone who’s dealt with the struggle of applying lashes at the precise moment when glue is tacky but not completely set. (And of course, there’s the removal ordeal, which if done improperly, can mean sacrificing a few of your natural lashes in the process.) Formerly a niche category in the world of false lashes, magnetic options are now going fully mainstream with popular mass brands like Kiss and Ardell making versions at price points that won’t break the bank. Magnetic lashes are also becoming available in a wide variety of shapes (i.e. clusters and strips), so they can be a great option no matter what lash look you’re going for.
Fantasy: All of the above info on all things lashes finally brings us to the fantasy category, the brash peacocks of the false lash world. As the name suggests, there’s exactly nothing subtle about these babies; after all, nothing screams “Hey World, I’m wearing fake eyelashes!” like a veritable plumage of brightly-colored feathers flared out from the outer corners of your eyes. “There is really a time and a place for them,” Deenihan tells Allure. “They are not something you will typically find on the red carpet; some editorial makeup stories might call for a bright, bold lash, but these types of lashes are commonly used for more character makeup.”
Using the right tools is key to applying lashes at home,” says Bass, who swears by a long, angled tool like Tweezerman’s Lash Assist to get the job done. “Once you’ve applied the lash, turn the tool around and use the back edge to gently press the lash in place.” However, like false lashes themselves, applicators come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and you may need to shop around to see which one feels most comfortable for you.
Regardless of the method chosen, maintaining good ocular hygiene is crucial. Lengthened lashes can create a "funneling effect" of foreign particles toward the eye, increasing the risk of irritation, infection, and ocular surface disease.
Stay Informed: As eye care providers, we must be knowledgeable on the changing trends in order to best advise safe practices for our patients and to help prevent these sequelae.
Educate Patients: Educate patients on the signs and symptoms of allergies and toxic chemical reactions to the cornea or conjunctiva.
Emphasize Hygiene: Thus the importance of routine cleansing regimen should be emphasized in order to mitigate this increased risk. Traditional methods for eyelid hygiene and prevention of meibomian gland dysfunction are appropriate: mild tear-free soap and water, OCuSOFT wipes and/or cleansing foam.
Consult with Estheticians: You may consider reaching out to respected salons in your area. Speaking to esthetic professionals regarding their treatments and protocols will give you valuable information with which to guide your patients through the process. It also allows you to emphasize the ocular health risks and decrease potential complications for their clients.
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