Wax has a long history as a wood finish, prized for its ability to protect woodwork from moisture, enhance the wood's grain, and provide a lustrous shine. While modern finishes offer greater durability, wax remains a valuable tool for woodworkers, offering a unique aesthetic and ease of use, especially when complementing other finishes. This article explores the various types of wood finish waxes, their applications, and best practices for achieving a beautiful and protective final coat.
Wood finish wax is a protective coating made from natural or synthetic waxes dissolved in a solvent to create a spreadable paste or liquid. It's been used for centuries to protect and polish wood, leather, and other materials. While it might not be the most durable finish on its own, wax offers a unique touch and is easy to apply, making it a favorite among both beginners and experienced woodworkers.
The wax used for finishing wood products is primarily carnauba wax, though virtually any kind of wax can be used (from beeswax to paraffin wax). Waxes are derived from a variety of mineral, vegetable and animal sources. Here's a breakdown of common types:
Carnauba Wax: This wax is one of the hardest natural waxes, derived from the leaves of the carnauba palm in Brazil. It produces a hard, glossy shine with a slick feel. Because of its hardness, carnauba wax is often combined with other waxes like beeswax to improve workability.
Beeswax: A moderately soft and sticky wax with a pleasant smell, beeswax buffs out to a mellow glow. Its stickiness makes it ideal for floors or surfaces where slippage should be minimized. However, some individuals may find the beeswax smell objectionable.
Paraffin Wax: Also known as canning wax, paraffin wax is soft and very slippery, almost greasy. It tends to flake off if applied too thickly.
Microcrystalline Wax: Refined from crude oil, microcrystalline wax is characterized by its fine crystal structure. It offers high durability to water and heat and is easy to apply. Unlike beeswax or carnauba, these synthetic waxes are non-acidic and won’t degrade antique finishes or corrode metals.
Blended Waxes: These are specially formulated waxes designed to combine the best properties of different waxes. For example, a blend of beeswax and carnauba wax offers a balance of workability and durability.
Wax is almost never used as a primary finish due to its limited protection. Instead, it's used to complement other finishes, such as oil finishes like tung oil or shellac.
Wax can be used on bare wood or wood that has only a thin penetrating finish, but you must apply several coats before you begin to get a modest sheen. At the other extreme, on a very high-gloss finish such as rubbed out lacquer or a French polish, wax is superfluous and can actually detract from the finish.
Here are some key benefits of using wax:
The key to successful wax application is to use a thin coat. Since virtually all of the applied wax is removed during buffing, a heavy coat is wasteful.
Here’s a step-by-step guide:
Preparation: Sand the surface using progressively finer sandpaper until you reach 220 grit (or optionally 320-dry grit) sandpaper. Ensure the surface is clean and dry. Remove any old wax, grease, and dirt with mineral spirits or a proprietary cleaner. Sanding sealers are not usually beneficial under wax finishes.
Application: Use a clean, lint-free rag to apply the wax. Scrape a small amount of wax out of the can with the rag and apply it to the work surface. Apply by rubbing along the grain. Apply sparingly; only a thin, microscopic layer should remain after buffing. The goal is to "wet" the complete surface and ensure no spots are missed.
Drying: Allow the wax layer to dry completely. This usually takes about 1/2 hour. The surface should look hazy, similar to being washed with a soapy cloth.
Buffing: Rub the project with a clean rag to remove any excess surface wax. Follow this with more vigorous buffing. The surface friction generated during buffing partially melts the wax and smoothens the surface. For larger surfaces, consider using a brush mounted on an electric drill to speed up the buffing process.
Liming Wax: For open-grained woods like oak or ash, consider using a liming wax. First, accent the wood with aniline dye. After it dries, work wax into the pores and carved details with an old toothbrush. After letting the wax set up for a couple of hours, apply clear wax to seal the colored layer, then burnish it with a denim cloth.
Colored Waxes: Adding colored pigments to white wax or using other colored waxes will achieve a multitude of effects.
Wax is most often used as the final step for a premium film finish, whether it is shellac, lacquer, or varnish. However, don’t be in a rush to apply it: Almost all waxes contain solvents, which can damage a film finish that isn’t fully cured.
Applying wax over an oil finish (like Danish or tung oil) can offer both protection and a beautiful depth.
Repairs for projects finished with wax are simple. Wax is easy to remove by using a clean rag dipped in the appropriate solvent. The solvent-moistened rag can then be used to rub off the old wax.
Reapply wax typically every 6-12 months, depending on use.
Be careful with the handling and disposal of the rags used to apply paste wax. The solvents used to make the wax soft enough to apply are highly flammable and combustible. Allow rags to thoroughly dry on a non-flammable surface (such as a concrete block), or wash them, or soak them with water before placing them in the garbage.
There is a high-quality, tried and tested range of Wood Waxes designed to restore and protect all types of wood including furniture, flooring and doors.
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