Full Potential Shampoo Ingredients: A Comprehensive Guide
Understanding the ingredients in your shampoo can be a game-changer for your hair health. This article delves into the components of a "Full Potential" shampoo, providing insights into their function and potential benefits. By examining each ingredient, we aim to offer a comprehensive understanding of how these components contribute to the overall performance of the shampoo.
Core Cleansing and Foaming Agents
The foundation of any shampoo lies in its ability to cleanse the hair and scalp. A "Full Potential" shampoo typically employs a blend of ingredients to achieve this:
- Water (Aqua/Eau): The most abundant ingredient, acting as a solvent for other components. The water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized, ensuring its purity and preventing interference with other ingredients. Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed).
- Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate: A soft, mild cleansing agent with an amphoteric structure, meaning it contains both positively and negatively charged parts. This biocompatible copolymer has the same structure as an important cell membrane ingredient, phospholipid. Surfactants are most commonly anionic meaning their head has a negative charge.
Emollients and Moisturizers
Maintaining hair's moisture balance is crucial for its health and appearance. This shampoo incorporates several emollients and moisturizers:
- Cetyl Alcohol: A fatty alcohol derived from coconut or palm kernel oil. It functions as an emollient, providing a smooth and soft feel to the hair. It also helps to thicken the product and emulsify water and oil. A so-called fatty (the good, non-drying kind of) alcohol that does all kinds of things in a skincare product: it makes your skin feel smooth and nice (emollient), helps to thicken up products and also helps water and oil to blend (emulsifier). Can be derived from coconut or palm kernel oil.
- Cetearyl Alcohol: A mix of cetyl and stearyl alcohol, both emollient fatty alcohols. It gives the skin a nice soft feel and gives body to creams and lotions. It also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes (emulsions), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself. Though chemically speaking, it is alcohol (as in, it has an -OH group in its molecule), its properties are totally different from the properties of low molecular weight or drying alcohols such as denat. alcohol.
- Glycerin: Acts as a humectant, attracting moisture to the hair and scalp.
- Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: A super common emollient derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It is light-textured, clear, odorless, and non-greasy, providing a pleasant feel on the hair. It’s a nice ingredient that just feels good on the skin, is super well tolerated by every skin type and easy to formulate with.
- Panthenol: Also known as pro-vitamin B5, it moisturizes the hair, attracts water, and helps retain it. It also possesses anti-inflammatory and skin-protecting abilities. An easy-to-formulate, commonly used, nice to have ingredient that’s also called pro-vitamin B5. Its main job in skincare products is to moisturise the skin. It’s a humectant meaning that it can help the skin to attract water and then hold onto it. Another great thing about panthenol is that it has anti-inflammatory and skin protecting abilities. A study shows that it can reduce the irritation caused by less-nice other ingredients (e.g. If that wasn’t enough panthenol is also useful in nail and hair care products. As for the hair the hydration effect is also true there.
- Sodium PCA: A natural component of the skin, contributing to its moisture-retention capabilities. PCA stands for Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid and though it might not sound like it, it is a thing that can be found naturally in our skin.
- Trehalose: Functions as a humectant, attracting and retaining moisture.
- Polyquaternium-51: A good skin moisturizer, leaves a silky, smooth feel on the skin and can help to reduce irritation caused by some not-so-nice ingredients (like surfactants).
- Sodium Hyaluronate: The sodium form of hyaluronic acid (HA), a polymer that acts as a sponge, helping the skin to hold onto water, being plump and elastic. It’s the - sodium form - cousin of the famous NMF, hyaluronic acid (HA). If HA does not tell you anything we have a super detailed, geeky explanation about it here. The TL; DR version of HA is that it's a huge polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) found in the skin that acts as a sponge helping the skin to hold onto water, being plump and elastic. As far as skincare goes, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid are pretty much the same and the two names are used interchangeably. In spite of this, if you search for "hyaluronic acid vs sodium hyaluronate" you will find on multiple places that sodium hyaluronate is smaller and can penetrate the skin better. Chemically, this is definitely not true, as the two forms are almost the same, both are polymers and the subunits can be repeated in both forms as much as you like.
- Urea: A natural moisturizing factor (NMF) that helps the skin hold onto water, keeping it plump, elastic, and hydrated. Yes, it's the thing that can be found naturally in pee. And in the skin. It is an awesome natural moisturizing factor, aka NMF. NMFs are important components that help the skin to hold onto water and keep it plump, elastic and hydrated. What makes urea special, is that it is not only a simple moisturizer, but it is thought to be a "small-molecule regulator of epidermal structure and function" meaning that it has a bunch of extra biological activities.
Oils and Butters
These ingredients contribute to the conditioning and nourishing properties of the shampoo:
- Bertholletia Excelsa (Brazil Nut) Seed Oil: Provides emollient properties, nourishing the hair.
- Orbignya Oleifera (Babassu) Seed Oil: Offers moisturizing benefits, leaving the hair soft and manageable.
- Pentaclethra Macroloba Seed Oil: Contributes to the overall conditioning effect, enhancing hair's texture.
- Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter: Adds richness and emollience, providing deep hydration.
Strengthening and Protecting Agents
These components aim to fortify the hair and protect it from damage:
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- Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein: A chemically chopped-up version of wheat protein consisting mainly of amino acids, peptides, and proteins. It has moisturizing and film-forming properties and might be able to counteract the irritating effects of cleansing agents in cleansers and shampoos.
- Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Corn Starch: We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
- Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch: We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
- Creatine: We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
- Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol: We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
- Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol: We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
- Phytantriol: We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
Extracts and Conditioners
Plant-derived extracts and conditioning agents add to the shampoo's beneficial properties:
- Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Extract: Functions as a skin and hair conditioner. Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) ExtractExtrait D’Orge
- Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Extract: Functions as a skin and hair conditioner and skin protectant. Contains gluten, if you are allergic. Also-called: Wheat Germ Extract It's a plant extract that comes from wheat germ. Used as skin- and hair conditioner and skin protectant.Contains gluten, if you are allergic.
- Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride: We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
Stabilizers and Thickeners
These ingredients ensure the shampoo's consistency and stability:
- Stearalkonium Chloride: We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
- Hydroxyethylcellulose: A helper ingredient that can thicken up cosmetic products and create beautiful gel formulas. It's derived from cellulose, the major component of the cell wall of green plants. A nice little helper ingredient that can thicken up cosmetic products and create beautiful gel formulas. It's derived from cellulose, the major component of the cell wall of green plants.
- Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-7: We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
- Sodium Chloride: Also known as salt, it acts as a thickener in cleansing formulas created with ionic cleansing agents. Sodium chloride is the fancy name of salt. If (similar to us) you are in the weird habit of reading the label on your shower gel while taking a shower, you might have noticed that sodium chloride is almost always on the ingredient list. The reason for this is that salt acts as a fantastic thickener in cleansing formulas created with ionic cleansing agents (aka surfactants) such as Sodium Laureth Sulfate. A couple of percents (typically 1-3%) turns a runny surfactant solution into a nice gel texture. If you are into chemistry (if not, we understand, just skip this paragraph), the reason is that electrolytes (you know, the Na+ and Cl- ions) screen the electrostatic repulsion between the head groups of ionic surfactants and thus support the formation of long shaped micelles (instead of spherical ones) that entangle like spaghetti, and viola, a gel is formed. Other than that, salt also works as an emulsion stabilizer in water-in-oil emulsions, that is when water droplets are dispersed in the outer oil (or silicone) phase.
Emulsifiers
These ingredients help to blend oil and water, creating a stable formula:
- Phospholipids: A type of lipid that's the major (about 75%) component of all cell membranes. It has a water-loving head with two water-hating tails and this structure gives the molecule emulsifying properties. As for skincare, it works as an emollient and skin-identical ingredient.
Silicones
- Dimethicone: An extremely common silicone that makes the skin silky smooth, creates a subtle gloss, and forms a protective barrier. As for skincare, it makes the skin silky smooth, creates a subtle gloss and forms a protective barrier (aka occlusive). Also, works well to fill in fine lines and wrinkles and give skin a plump look (of course that is only temporary, but still, it's nice). There are also scar treatment gels out there using dimethicone as their base ingredient. It helps to soften scars and increase their elasticity. As for hair care, it is a non-volatile silicone meaning that it stays on the hair rather than evaporates from it and smoothes the hair like no other thing.
Other Functional Ingredients
- Butylene Glycol: A multi-tasking ingredient that acts as a solvent, penetration enhancer, slip agent, and humectant. Butylene glycol, or let’s just call it BG, is a multi-tasking colorless, syrupy liquid. It’s a great pick for creating a nice feeling product. BG’s main job is usually to be a solvent for the other ingredients. Other tasks include helping the product to absorb faster and deeper into the skin (penetration enhancer), making the product spread nicely over the skin (slip agent), and attracting water (humectant) into the skin. It’s an ingredient whose safety hasn’t been questioned so far by anyone (at least not that we know about). BG is approved by Ecocert and is also used enthusiastically in natural products.
- Tocopheryl Acetate: A form of vitamin E, known for its antioxidant properties. It’s the most commonly used version of pure vitamin E in cosmetics. You can read all about the pure form here.
- Cetyl Ethylhexanoate: An odorless and colorless emollient ester that gives a velvety and silky feel to the skin. It has great spreadability and a non-oily feel and is a popular ingredient in makeup removers. An odorless and colorless emollient ester (cetyl alcohol + ethylhexanoic acid) that gives a velvety and silky feel to the skin. It has great spreadability and a non-oily feel. It's a popular ingredient in makeup removers.
- Salicylic Acid: We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
- Panthenyl Ethyl Ether: We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
- Linoleic Acid: An omega-6 fatty acid that plays a central role in the structure and function of the skin barrier. The famous omega-6 fatty acid, the mother of all ω-6 fatty acids in our body. It is a so-called polyunsaturated fatty acid meaning it has more than one (in this case two) double bonds and a somewhat kinky structure that makes LA and LA-rich oils a thin liquid.It is also an essential fatty acid meaning our body cannot synthesize it and has to take it from food. This is not hard at all as plenty of nuts (such as flax, poppy or sesame seeds) and vegetable oils (such as sunflower or safflower) are rich in LA. The hard thing seems to be eating enough omega-3-s, more specifically eating a healthy ratio of omega-6 to omega-3, but that is a topic for a what-is-good-to-eat-site and not for us. As for linoleic acid and the skin, LA is a really important little guy found naturally in our skin. It is the most abundant fatty acid in the epidermis and it serves as a structural precursor for important skin lipids called ceramides. Knowing this, it will not come as a surprise that Linoleic acid has a central role in the structure and function of stratum corneum permeability, aka healthy skin barrier. LA deficiency leads to an impaired more permeable skin barrier and the topical application of LA-rich sunflower oil can fix this issue rapidly (while oleic-rich olive oil did not have the same barrier repairing effect).LA is not only important for dry, barrier damaged skin types but also for acne-prone skin. Research shows that problem skin has lower levels of linoleic acid (and higher levels of oleic acid) than normal skin. So LA-deficiency in the skin seems to be connected not only to an impaired skin barrier but also to acne and smearing LA all over your face might help with your problem skin. A double-blind study using a 2.5% LA gel for 4 weeks found a 25% reduction in the size of microcomedones, the tiny blocked pores that can later lead to acne.If that was not enough, we have one more thing to report about LA. It lightens hyperpigmentation (aka UVB caused sun spots) both by blocking the melanin production of melanocytes (the skin cells that make the pigment melanin) and by enhancing the desquamation of melanin pigment from the upper layers of the skin.Overall, linoleic acid is a multi-functional skin goodie with barrier repairing, acne-reducing, and skin-lightening magic abilities.
- Pantethine: We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
- Cholesterol: An important lipid found naturally in the outer layer of the skin. It constitutes about 25% of the goopy stuff between our skin cells. It's one of the important lipids that can be found naturally in the outer layer of the skin. About 25% of the goopy stuff between our skin cells consists of cholesterol.
- Adenosine Phosphate: We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
- Squalane: A stable, oily liquid that functions as a superb moisturizer, making the skin nice and smooth without being heavy or greasy. It is compatible with all skin types and skin conditions. It seems to us that squalane is in fashion and there is a reason for it. Chemically speaking, it is a saturated (no double bonds) hydrocarbon (a molecule consisting only of carbon and hydrogen), meaning that it's a nice and stable oily liquid with a long shelf life. It occurs naturally in certain fish and plant oils (e.g. olive), and in the sebum (the oily stuff our skin produces) of the human skin. As f.c. puts it in his awesome blog post, squalane's main things are "emolliency, surface occlusion, and TEWL prevention all with extreme cosmetic elegance". In other words, it's a superb moisturizer that makes your skin nice and smooth, without being heavy or greasy. Another advantage of squalane is that it is pretty much compatible with all skin types and skin conditions.
UV Filters
Ethylhexyl Salicylate: We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate: A clear, oil-soluble liquid that is the most commonly used chemical sunscreen. It only protects against UVB and not UVA rays. A colorless to light yellowish oily liquid that works as a UVB (280-320nm) sunscreen filter with a peak absorbance at 306 nm. A clear, oil-soluble, "cosmetically-elegant" liquid that is the most commonly used chemical sunscreen. It only protects against UVB and not UVA rays (the 320-400 nm range) - so always choose products that contain other sunscreens too. It is not very stable either, when exposed to sunlight, it kind of breaks down and loses its effectiveness (not instantly, but over time - it loses 10% of its SPF protection ability within 35 mins). To make it more stable it can be - and should be - combined with other sunscreen agents to give stable and broad-spectrum protection (the new generation sunscreen agent, Tinosorb S is a particularly good one for that). Regarding safety, there are also some concerns around Octinoxate. In vitro (made in the lab not on real people) and animal studies have shown that it may produce hormonal (estrogen-like) effects. Do not panic, the studies were not conducted under real life conditions on real human people, so it is probably over-cautious to avoid Octinoxate altogether. However, if you are pregnant or a small child (under 2 yrs. old), choose a physical (zinc oxide/titanium dioxide) or new-generation Tinosorb based sunscreen, just to be on the super-safe side. Overall, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate is an old-school chemical sunscreen agent.
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Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane: The famous Avobenzone. It is a special snowflake as it is the only globally available chemical sunscreen agent that provides proper UVA protection (in the US, new generation sunscreen agents are not approved because of impossible FDA regulations). It gives very good protection across the whole UVA range (310-400 nm that is both UVA1 and UVA2) with a peak protection at 360 nm. The problem with it, though, is that it is not photostable and degrades in the sunlight. Wikipedia says that avobenzone loses 36% of its UV-absorption capacity after just one hour of sunlight (yep, this is one of the reasons why sunscreens have to be reapplied after a few hours). The cosmetic's industry is trying to solve the problem by combining avobenzone with other UV filters that enhance its stability (like octocrylene, Tinosorb S or Ensulizole) or by encapsulating it and while both solutions help, neither is perfect. Interestingly, the combination of avobenzone with mineral sunscreens (that is titanium dioxide and zinc oxide) is not a good idea. As for safety, avobenzone has a pretty good safety profile. It counts as non-irritating, and unlike some other chemical sunscreens, it shows no estrogenic effect.
Preservatives and Stabilizers
- Alcohol Denat.: Read all the geeky details about Alcohol Denat. here >>
- Disodium EDTA: A helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time by neutralizing metal ions in the formula. Super common little helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes.
- Phenoxyethanol: We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
- Citric Acid: An AHA that comes from citrus fruits. Other than that, salt also works as an emulsion stabilizer in water-in-oil emulsions, that is when water droplets are dispersed in the outer oil (or silicone) phase. Citric acid comes from citrus fruits and is an AHA. But according to a comparative study done in 1995, citric acid has less skin improving magic properties than glycolic or lactic acid.
Fragrance
- Fragrance (Parfum): Nice smelling stuff put into cosmetic products so that the end product also smells nice. Exactly what it sounds: nice smelling stuff put into cosmetic products so that the end product also smells nice. If you are someone who likes to know what you put on your face then fragrance is not your best friend - there's no way to know what’s really in it. Also, if your skin is sensitive, fragrance is again not your best friend. It’s the number one cause of contact allergy to cosmetics. It’s definitely a smart thing to avoid with sensitive skin (and fragrance of any type - natural is just as allergic as synthetic, if not worse!).
- Linalool: A super common fragrance ingredient found both in plants and in cosmetic products. Linalool is a super common fragrance ingredient. It’s kind of everywhere - both in plants and in cosmetic products. The problem with linalool is, that just like limonene it oxidises on air exposure and becomes allergenic. That’s why a product containing linalool that has been opened for several months is more likely to …
- Limonene: We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
- Butylphenyl Methylpropional: We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
Usage
Work a dab through wet hair, lather well, and rinse thoroughly.
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