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The Ultimate Guide to Grey Reverse Shampoos: Banishing Yellow and Brassy Tones

Is your gray hair losing its luster, plagued by unwanted yellow or brassy tones? The solution might be simpler than you think: purple shampoo. This comprehensive guide explores the world of grey reverse shampoos, diving into how they work, which ingredients to look for, and the best products available to keep your silver strands vibrant and beautiful.

Why Does Gray Hair Turn Yellow or Brassy?

Understanding the causes of discoloration is the first step in combating it. Several factors contribute to the yellowing or brassiness of gray hair:

  • UV Exposure: Molecular Biologist and Cosmetic Chemist Kate Noonan explains that hair is made up of 95% keratin protein. When hair is exposed to UV, it breaks down that keratin-specifically the part that gives hair its strength and shine. UV also fades hair color and can create hair-yellowing. Research has demonstrated UV turns proteins in hair yellow. Melanin in hair normally prevents hair from yellowing, but gray and silver hair have little to no melanin content to prevent this. Same with white hair.
  • Heat Styling: Too much heat on gray hair can turn it brassy (or yellowish). Reducing your use of heat tools like flat irons, curling irons and blow dryers can also significantly reduce yellowing of your hair.
  • Product Buildup: Product buildup is a big factor when it comes to yellowing.
  • Environmental Factors: Exposure to UV rays, heat, and even minerals in your water can all contribute to discoloration.

How Does Purple Shampoo Work? The Science Behind the Magic

Purple shampoos are called “purple shampoos” because they are actually…PURPLE. Jenn adds, “It’s basic color theory. Purple and yellow are complementary colors. That means when put together, they neutralize each other. This is DIFFERENT than the chelating or clarifying shampoo, or apple cider vinegar rinses you might have heard of. A chelating or clarifying shampoo can be used to remove any product or mineral buildup that may be contributing to brassiness. So the bottom line is that you need something purple in the purple shampoo to get the job done. I’ve seen brands use a myriad of ingredients to attempt this, from botanicals like purple potato, to mineral-derived pigments like ultramarines and iron oxides, to plant extracts like bilberry extract and beet extract, to synthetic dyes (like Basic dyes and Acid Violets).

Key Ingredients to Look For (and Avoid)

The effectiveness of a grey reverse shampoo hinges on its ingredients. Here's a breakdown of what to seek out and what to avoid:

The Good Guys: Toning Agents

  • Violet 2 (Ex D&C Violet 2) and Acid Violet 43: Krupa explains, “Acid Violets are safe to use and don’t have any safety issues associated with them, in hair shampoo/conditioner application. Acid Violet 43 was determined to be safe for use in hair dye formulations, when impurities are limited. Violet 2 (also known as Ex D&C Violet 2) and Acid Violet 43 used to be derived from coal tar, but are currently made during petroleum jelly refining.
  • Basic Dyes: Basic Dyes (which is actually the proper name for these dyes even though it sounds like a descriptor-”Basic dyes” can encompass everything from Basic Brown 16 to Basic Blue 99 and Basic Red 76, the two we’re specifically talking about here) fall under the category of “coal tar” dyes, which means they are exempt from FDA approval.
  • Natural Alternatives: Some shampoos utilize botanical extracts like beet extract, bilberry extract, and rhubarb extract to achieve a purple hue.

The Not-So-Good Guys: Potential Irritants and Harmful Substances

  • Harsh Surfactants: MOST of the purple shampoos on the market are formulated with other health-compromising ingredients like surfactants, parabens, fragrance and more, like DMDM Hydantoin.
  • Parabens and Phthalates: These preservatives and plasticizers have been linked to hormone disruption and other health concerns.
  • Synthetic Fragrances: Can cause allergic reactions and sensitivities in some individuals.

Featured Grey Reverse Shampoos: A Detailed Review

Here's a curated selection of grey reverse shampoos, with detailed reviews based on personal experience and expert insights:

Read also: Treatments for Gray Hair

OWAY’s Silver Steel Hair Bath

OWAY’s Silver Steel Hair Bath smells great and leaves my hair feeling fresh, bouncy and clean. It’s also packaged in glass, which is RARE for any shampoo. Most brands won’t do this for safety reasons, but I love it. It feels elevated and chic. This formula pumps out a dark, iridescent, royal purple. It cleans really well and is great at removing oils and buildup. I found this shampoo at the salon I go to, so it’s no surprise that it works. And when I say it works, it not only cleans hair, but it also reduces brassiness like a boss. Silver Steel Hair Bath uses Violet 2 as a pigment to neutralize brassiness and I would classify this formula as the strongest purple shampoo I’ve tried in terms of toning power. Resurrection plant the same ingredient we see in African Botanics’ Resurrection Cell Recovery Serum. It has the ability to survive in extremely harsh, dry conditions and has a regenerating, anti-oxidative, moisturizing and protective effect on the hair, skin and scalp.

Innersense Bright Balance Hairbath

Innersense is already a clean beauty hall-of-famer for shampoos that actually cleanse without stripping, and Bright Balance holds that line. It tones hard (in the best way), especially if you leave it on for the full five minutes. The formula is a deep, inky purple, which I appreciate. So many “clean” purple shampoos barely look lavender and do nothing. This one means business. It leans more on the toning side than brightening, but that’s its strength-it deposits color using the same combo of Basic Red and Basic Blue dyes that you’ll find in brands like Overtone. While I normally double cleanse, one wash was enough for Claire. As for the wash itself, it leaves my hair feeling soft, not stripped. It’s also full of goodies like apple extract, monoi oil, and vitamin E. And the scent? A light hit of jasmine that doesn’t linger or overpower. This is a top pick for people with sensitivities and/or allergies to synthetic dyes. Like Innersense, this formula uses Basic Red 76 and Basic Blue 99 for its purple pigment.

EverEscents Organic Berry Blonde Shampoo

Created from certified organic, wild harvested and Ecocert ingredients, this plant-based shampoo is tinted with beet extract, bilberry extract, rhubarb extract and more to get its purple hue. There is also the option to add a dried plant mix called a Violet Booster for a more pigmented experience. This shampoo is not designed to neutralize brassy tones in your gray hair. To be honest, my favorite thing about this shampoo is that it washed my hair as good as any conventional shampoo ever has. The “clean hair” satisfaction score here is off the charts. The other drawback is that it’s not available in the US. What really drew me to this formula is that it’s made from 83.8% certified organic ingredients and 99.36% naturally derived ingredients. This is not really a purple shampoo in the traditional sense of purple shampoos.

Ethique Tone It Down Purple Shampoo Bar

The Ethique Tone It Down purple shampoo bar is another option that does not employ synthetic dyes. Love the sustainability efforts here, but as you can see the pigment transfer is a lot lighter than other shampoos, which has a direct impact on this shampoo’s ability to cancel out brassy tones compared to liquid purple shampoos. *We asked Ethique about the components of their fragrance, and they said, “Our Tone It Down bar features a COSMOS NATURAL certified fragrance containing Jasmine essential oil and vanilla parfum.” (And they shared the certification with us. *Two thumbs up!*).

Kavella

Kavella uses Acid Violet 43 and Acid Red 33 as colorants in a cleaner base. I love how pigmented this formula is, however I’m not recommending it for two reasons. This formula was super thin, runny and hard to manage. Call foaming/sudsing shampoo a personal preference, but I will go out on a limb and say most people feel the same.

Read also: The Ultimate Guide to Gray Coverage

Kitsch’s Purple Toning Solid Shampoo Bar

I’m throwing Kitsch’s Purple Toning Solid Shampoo Bar into the mix because I wanted to see how a bar that uses synthetic dyes measures up. I was drawn to this bar specifically because of its simple ingredient list, including Violet No. On the other hand, I loved how this bar cleaned my hair. It left my hair and scalp feeling fresh, but not stripped. The directions here say to wet hair and then “paint” on from lengths to ends for even toning.

Rahua

Let me start out by saying I love Rahua. I was so excited to see a new purple shampoo at Credo. First, the color is way too light. It’s a “barely there” hint of pigment that didn’t tone or brighten my hair. Second, it doesn’t cleanse well enough. But the icing on the cake? One day I washed my hair, and it still smelled like campfire after I washed it.

BRUNS SCHAMPO N24

This formula was recommended to me by one reader on Instagram-THANK YOU! I was so so so excited to give this option a try. In terms of ingredients, this is BY FAR the simplest formula I’ve seen to date. To be honest, I was kind of borderline shocked at the brevity of the ingredient list. SCHAMPO N24 is packaged in plastic and squeezes out a medium, translucent purple. I would equate the consistency, color and texture to be like that slime kids get out of a $0.25 machine. This shampoo is on the mild end of the spectrum-mild in cleansing power and milder in pigment. It didn’t stain my hand when I took these pics (like OWAY’s did) and it’s gentle enough to use every day. It works to clean without stripping or drying out hair, which is great considering hair gets naturally drier as we age. It also has ingredients like jojoba oil to add protection against dryness, breakage and split ends, and grapefruit essential oil, which helps relieve scalp irritation. Kate adds, “The BRUNS shampoo looks really good because the pH is ideal for hair and scalp-I can tell what the exact product pH must be by their Ecocert COSMOS preservative choice. They also use the COSMOS cationic guar, which reduces friction between strands, is scalp-friendly and works to keep hair strong. I have thicker hair, but I’ve actually come to love this option because I can use it all the time without fear of giving myself straw head. SCHAMPO N24 uses naturals (campeachy tree) and synthetics (Acid Violet 43) as pigment to neutralize brassiness.

How to Use Purple Shampoo Effectively: Tips and Tricks

If you’ve tried using purple shampoo to brighten your gray (or blonde) hair, but it doesn’t work-you might be doing it wrong. Here's how to maximize its benefits:

  • Application: The trick? Let the shampoo sit on your hair for a few minutes (sometimes directions even say this explicitly) before rinsing. You can even take a clip into the shower and clip up your hair as you take this time to do all the other things like wash your face or shave.
  • Frequency: You will also have to play with frequency, depending on how often you wash your hair and the needs of your own gray hair. For the person who washes daily, you may only need to use a purple shampoo a couple times a week to get those grays non-brassy and bright.
  • Hair Shade: It also depends on the shade of your hair. Jenn explains, “Anyone can use a purple shampoo; you just won’t get benefits from the color unless your hair is a level 8 [a medium blonde on the hair tone scale] and above.
  • Dealing with Purple Overtones: If your hair happens to turn purple, Jenn suggests that “a clarifying shampoo will typically work well to pull out unwanted tones. You can apply the shampoo and let it sit for a while to help pull out the color.

Beyond Shampoo: Additional Tips for Maintaining Vibrant Gray Hair

  • UV Protection: And she’s right. In fact, UV and heat are the biggest discoloring factors. Reducing your exposure to UV rays is key to preventing yellowing of strands.
  • Heat Protection: Choose heat tools that dry or style your hair in half the time, I’ve tried the Dyson Supersonic Hair Dryer and I’ve tried the Dyson Airwrap. Also heatless curling tools are an option. The entire team has tried Kitsch heatless curls-which we all loved.
  • Antioxidant-Rich Products: Another preventative measure is to look for shampoos that are rich with plant antioxidants, which help reduce yellowing caused by UV. Antioxidants that are most effective for stopping hair yellowing (UV, heat, iron in water) are the ones that quench the hydroxyl radicals that are causing the yellowing.
  • SuperFinish Polishing Balm: SuperFinish Polishing Balm stands out to me because it’s water-based and really light and it doesn’t change the texture of my hair. It’s like adding nothing but it’s like adding everything. Check it out: the Polishing Balm defrizzes, adds moisture, softness, shine, strength, prevents breakage, splitting AND provides UV and heat protection. I know. I add a dollop of this to my hair before every blow dry and it leaves my hair super shiny and soft.

Purple vs. Blue Shampoo: Know the Difference

NO. Purple shampoo is not to be confused with blue shampoo, which is used for darker hair to cancel out orange tones. Jenn warns, “Never put blue, even pale blue, on blonde hair when trying to cancel out yellow tones.

Read also: Dye Shampoo for Gray Hair

tags: #grey #reverse #shampoo #review



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