Decoding your curl type can feel confusing. The journey to understanding and embracing your hair texture might be a winding one, but it doesn't have to be overly complicated. Familiarizing yourself with your curl type and its unique wants and needs unlocks a world of styling, nourishing, and self-love that makes any trial and error well worth it.
Most people today look to a curl-categorization system, developed by hairstylist Andre Walker (Oprah Winfrey's personal stylist), to understand their ringlets, waves, and coils. There's been some debate as to whether the typing system is too narrow-or even divisive-so it's been modified and expanded over the years by the curly community.
Even if the system isn't perfect, Walker's hair-typing system can be an excellent starting point for identifying your curl pattern and shopping the best curly hair products to help you make that happen. Because little baseline knowledge goes a long way in achieving your perfect coif. It's a lot to take in, but industry curl experts, including hairstylists and salon owners, can unpack the ins and outs of curl-typing. Whether you've got soft twirls that land at your collarbone or tight coils that reach for the heavens, this guide will help you get the hang of your head faster than you can say "curly cut." This tip sheet below (complete with recommendations for the best products for your curl type) so you can be well on your way to becoming a curl-typing pro.
Consider your curl type a guide to your hair care routine. Each curl type requires different maintenance when it comes to product, heat application, and moisture. The products can be particularly important, since they can make or break your overall look as well as impact your hair health. For instance, if you have thick, coarse curls, it is important to look for products that are heavy enough so that your curls can absorb the ingredients and the product can fulfill its purpose. On the other hand, if you have thinner or looser waves, you should avoid formulas that feel thick or heavy, so they don’t weigh your hair down and lead to oily or greasy strands.
That said, curl types should not be the end-all, be-all in deciding how you care for hair. The classification system puts emphasis on what your curl shape looks like as compared to how frizzy your hair is or if your curls lack definition. So, if you find that you have Type 2A curls with a lot of frizz, you might want to adjust your styling routine accordingly.
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Your hair follicles are the primary influence on your curl type. The way the hair emerges from the follicle will determine the shape and pattern of the strand, and tell you what kind of hair type you have.
It’s easiest to determine your curl type when your hair is wet; this is when hair is in its natural state, according to Sophie Rose Gutterman, a hairstylist based in Los Angeles, CA. she recommends brushing with a conditioner in your hair, then rinsing, because your curl pattern will start to take form.
Curly hair ranges from a type 2A through 4C. If you have straight hair you have Type 1 hair - or, in other words, no curls. Type 2 curls are more wavy, and Type 3 curls are more curly. If you have coily strands, then you have Type 4 curls. These types of curls are then broken down into subcategories A, B and C; this classification is based on the width of the curl.
A simple breakdown: Type 1s are straight, Type 2s are wavy, Type 3s are curly, and Type 4s are coily. Easy enough, right? The sub-classifications of A to C are based on the width or diameter of your wave, curl, or coil. Type As have a wider pattern size, Type Bs medium, and Type Cs the smallest of the three. The real beauty of identifying your hair type is that you're better at understanding how to care for your texture so you can have more versatility, explains curl-wizard Anthony Dickey.
"Your curl type is determined by the shape of the follicle that your hair grows out of from your scalp," says hairstylist Vernon François. “The flatter or more oval-shaped the follicle, the curlier your hair; the more circular the cross-section, the straighter your hair. Your curl pattern is also identified by the shape that the strands of hair make, whether they kink, curve, or wind around themselves into spirals.”
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Most people with textured hair have more than one pattern on their head, "so you may have a combination of, say, kinky, coily, wavy, and curly," adds François. And FYI, identifying your curl shape and pattern(s) is best determined while your hair is sopping wet.
Type 2 waves are fluid, can be fine to coarse, and have a signature “S” pattern that hangs closer to the head. This hair type “takes the most amount of time and work to form a curl,” says Brooklyn-based hairstylist Jonathan Matais-Bernard. Type 2 curls, or wavy hair, are the loosest of the curl patterns and often easier to manage than Types 3 or 4, says Nika Pearl-Edwards, hairstylist at Rob Peetoom Salon in Williamsburg, NY. It tends to benefit from lightweight products that won’t weigh down these waves and stretch them out, which eliminates any definition, according to Pearl-Edwards.
2A hair has a subtle, barely-there texture that's straightforward to straighten. The loosest of all the curl types, Type 2A hair will usually not form a full curl, but appears more as a slight bend in the hair. People with this texture should be wary of using heavy styling products that can easily weigh strands down, making hair look limp. If that sounds like you, Matais-Bernard recommends opting for lightweight products that still offer "a lot of hold." Frizz typically isn’t an issue if you have Type 2A hair, but it’s possible for the waves to stretch out and disappear if you incorporate styling products into your hair.
To get the job done, he likes the Davines Curl Moisturizing Mousse. "It gives the perfect balance of hold and weightlessness," says the stylist. Because type 2A waves tend to lack volume at the roots, Dickey recommends using an airy, water-based mousse, like the Aveda Phomollient Styling Foam, to add a bit of oomph at the base. Gutterman recommends avoiding heavy hair oils and moisturizing creams; they will weigh it down and straighten out the waves.
Instead, she recommends enhancing waves by applying a leave-in conditioner throughout hair, followed by a lightweight gel you scrunch in with your hands. “The gel will provide extra hold and hopefully give your curls some bounce.”
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2B girlies have hair that lies flatter at the crown and defined “S” waves beginning from mid-lengths. This is where assessing hair when damp can be especially helpful. 2B hair may appear wavy even when wet. Their strands are thicker than 2A’ers and require more elbow grease to get hair pin-straight. The curl pattern will often look like a continuous S shape and will shrink when dry.
To enhance your surfer-babe waves, use a texturizing mist like the Ouai Wave Spray, enriched with rice protein. Ceremonia’s Guava Beach Waves Hair Texturizing Spray is another great option for moisturizing and amping your natural waves without the weight. Heavy moisturizers and hair oils will again add weight to this hair type. However, “if your hair is feeling dry and you want to hydrate hair, try applying products only to the ends,” says Gutterman. You can also add extra definition to your hair by diffusing it, which will also boost volume and minimize frizz.
“The struggle with Type 2 curls is longevity, so I always recommend diffusing for maximum volume and hold for curls that tend to flatten throughout the day,” says Matais-Bernard. We love the Curlsmith Defrizzion Travel Hair Dryer & Diffuser because it’s excellent at cutting down on frizz and has a large surface area for tackling all your hair at once.
2C waves are thicker and more susceptible to frizz, with more definition in the “S”-bends that begin at the root. This is almost a true curl. The hair will most likely bounce up in the shower even when wet, and may start to form a tighter S shape. Between shampoos, 2C’ers can opt for a non-lathering, sulfate-free co-wash to avoid stripping essential moisture from strands. It’s also the type where you may notice frizz form, which is where additional hydration can be helpful.
Dickey also recommends layering a leave-in conditioner under a mousse to lock in your natural wave pattern while adding hydration.
These are “true” curls, and what you might think of when you picture curly hair. They’re defined by their ringlet shape - forming actual spirals - and offer natural volume and bounce. However, they tend to be more prone to dryness and frizz, which means maintaining and adding moisture is a must. Type 3 curly hair can range from loose, buoyant loops to tight, springy corkscrews with shine. Care practices for curlier girlies tend to be more comprehensive than those of wavier women.
These are typically S-shaped spirals with a relatively large diameter, says Brittany Johnson, a hairstylist based in San Francisco, CA. “Think sidewalk chalk-sized spirals.” 3A strands tend to be shiny with broader, looser curls that have a diameter about the size of a piece of sidewalk chalk (TBT). Unless your hair is very coarse or dense, she says that it’s important to avoid products that are too heavy, which can prevent curls from properly forming and make it hard to retain volume and lift.
To swiftly style 3A hair, work a dollop or two of curl cream or mousse (like the Best of Beauty Award-winning SGX NYC Curl Power Nourishing Curl Cream) into your damp hair, "raking it through with your hands from roots to ends, and scrunching out the excess water," explains Matais-Bernard. Doing so will help define the curls' texture and hydrate them in the process. Refrain from touching your hair after applying the products, or you'll risk sparking a frizz halo.
Spritz your hair with a curl refresher to maintain those bouncy coils, like the Carol's Daughter Hair Milk Nourishing & Conditioning Refresher Spray. This formula is lightweight, defining, and smells like yummy, sweet almonds.
Type 3B curls are well-defined ringlets that are C- or S-shaped, and their diameter is similar to a finger or marker, says Johnson. They tend to bounce off each other, which contributes to a more voluminous look than other curl types.
On The Science of Beauty, cosmetic chemist Erica Douglas explains that co-washing involves using conditioner instead of shampoo to cleanse and remove hair buildup. This texture trends dry, so stay stocked with curl gels formulated with hydration-locking humectants, like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, (familiar skin-care ingredients that serve similar functions), and aloe vera extract to attract moisture. Because this curl type can be a mix of various curls and coils, pay attention to the different areas of your head - is your hairline a different texture than the rest of your hair? Do you have tighter curls in the back of your head? Even if the majority of your hair is 3B, don’t be afraid to use different products or methods in the same styling session.
Give the glycerin-rich Mielle Organics Honey & Ginger Styling Gel or the Curls Goddess Botanical Gel, another hydrating and defining pick. Word to the wise: "Apply when [your hair is] wet, so you'll get definition without frizz," urges Dickey.
“3C curls have more of a coil or corkscrew appearance and are about the width of a pencil,” says Sims. “They are very small, tightly curled and densely packed together.” Type 3C curls resemble tight corkscrews with diameters comparable to straws or pencils. Strands are densely gathered, giving way to lots of natural volume. Frizziness is to be expected in 3C hair, so if you're trying to mitigate fluff and flyaways, reach for a sulfate-free, non-drying, creamy cleanser like the Oyin Handmade Ginger Mint Co-Wash.
Dickey also likes layering a mousse (such as the 2020 Best of Beauty-winning Rucker Roots Texture Styling Mousse) over a styling cream (like the Eden BodyWorks Coconut Shea Curl Defining Creme) when the hair is sopping wet to allow curls to clump together and form faster.
Also known as textured hair, Type 4 curls tend to be so tightly curled that they’re often called coils. Type 4 curls are more of a kinky coil, and have more volume and height than Types 2 and 3, says Taylor, and they often can be shaped more like zig-zags (think z-shape instead of s-shape). This hair type is very dry, too, so it’s fragile and prone to breakage - making gentle, nourishing care essential.
This hair type has springy, S-shaped and densely packed coils, and they tend to have more definition and moisture than other Type 4 curls. Each strand is independent of the others, giving this hair type its specific density and volume, says Taylor.
In addition to leave-in treatments and oils, she recommends using deep conditioning masks on a regular basis and avoiding hot tools, which can further dry out and damage this hair type. For styling, meanwhile, consider trying a protective hairstyle, which reduces tension on the scalp to minimize hair loss and breakage; she’s especially fond of bantu knots.
This curl type can sometimes be in a zig-zag pattern, says Kayganich, which can contribute to its notable dryness. The tighter the curl, the harder it is for your natural oils to make their way all the way to the ends of the hair due to the shape of the cuticle, she explains.
Moisture is still important for that reason. But when you’re shopping for products, avoid formulas that have silicone (which can appear as “dimethicone” on ingredient lists). Silicones are known to add buildup on the hair, which is not ideal for this hair type since the most common way to remove silicone is through sulfates - which results in more dryness, says Taylor. In other words, it traps you in a cycle of creating buildup and stripping away moisture.
These curls are very similar to type 4B curls, but are even more tightly coiled and fragile - so much so that the individual curls can be almost unrecognizable to the eye. Their shape may veer into zig-zags as well, says Taylor, and they require the most amount of moisture of any curl type, too. One of the most common attributes of this hair type is its shrinkage, which is when the hair appears shorter than it actually is, she adds.
For this specific hair type, wash-and-go is the best way for an easy look while still maintaining your hair health, she says. (It’s exactly what it sounds like: Simply wash, apply products and let it air dry.) Protective styles can also prevent breakage and heat damage. I love two-strand twists and braid-outs for this hair type since they’re easy to achieve on your own at home, she says.
Many, if not most, people have multiple curl patterns throughout their hair, says Johnson. There are often curls that are larger or smaller in diameter in certain areas of their head, and the texture of their hair can change in different areas as well. She recommends treating the specific curl types in these areas. For example, if you know that the crown of your head and nape of your neck have a tighter curl pattern than the rest of your hair, use a heavier curl cream or gel in those areas, and lighter leave-ins around your front hairline where your curl pattern is looser, she says.
In addition to your curl type, it’s important to consider other factors that can affect your curl health. These can include:
Type 2 hair generally needs the least amount of moisture of all the curl types, and, with a heat protectant applied, washing and heat-styling is generally okay at the frequency you prefer, according to experts. Because they’re drier, Types 3 curls can go longer between washes; Sims says once a week should suffice for most people, although that might be different based on your lifestyle (if, say, you work out often) and other concerns, like a flaky scalp. Finally, Type 4 hair types tend to be the driest hair type, so heat-styling should be kept to a minimum, if not avoided entirely, since it can further dry out and damage hair, according to Taylor; minimal washing is also a good idea. They also benefit from protective styles, which are intended to minimize breakage and help you avoid heat damage.
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