Achieving the perfect hair color, be it platinum blonde or cool mocha brown, often requires considerable time and investment in salon visits. Maintaining that ideal shade, however, can be challenging as unwanted tones like yellow, orange, or red may appear over time. This article provides a comprehensive guide to understanding and combating brassy hair using hair toners and other techniques.
To effectively use hair toners, it's crucial to understand hair color undertones. These undertones reside beneath the surface of your natural hair color. Light blonde, silver, or grey hair typically has yellow or gold undertones. Medium brown hair has orange undertones, while very dark brown or black hair has red undertones.
Neutralization is the key to eliminating unwanted hair color tones. This concept relies on the hair color wheel, which visually represents the relationships between colors. Colors directly opposite each other on the wheel neutralize each other. Specifically:
Hair toners work by depositing color to counteract unwanted undertones. In salons, stylists often use low-ammonia toner formulas after lightening the hair. For example, to achieve a pearly blonde shade, a stylist will first lighten the hair and then apply a violet toner to neutralize the exposed yellow tones.
You can also manage unwanted tones at home using various products and techniques:
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A hair toner is a product designed to alter the color of hair, specifically to eliminate brassy, yellow, and orange tones, resulting in a more appealing reflect.
Toners function similarly to hair color. They are mixed with a developer, and this mixture penetrates the hair cuticle to recolor the melanin within the hair.
While hair toners are professional products typically used by stylists in salons, individuals with a good understanding of color theory and some hair coloring experience can achieve excellent results at home. Key factors include pre-lightening the hair to the correct level and selecting a toner with the appropriate level and reflect for your hair.
The longevity of hair toner depends on the type of toner used. Cream-based permanent toners can last up to 10 weeks, which is typically sufficient until your next salon appointment.
The required hair level depends on the desired result:
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The ideal ingredients vary based on your hair's level after bleaching and the desired color.
The recommended time varies by product, but generally, toners can be left in the hair for 10 to 20 minutes.
Some toners do lift the hair, while others do not. Permanent toners typically provide more lift than demi-permanent toners. Use intense permanent toners for lifting and toning simultaneously, regular lifting permanent toners for strong yellow neutralization, and ammonia-free demi-permanent toners for refreshing and toning without lifting.
Use intense permanent toners when significant lift is needed, such as when the hair is still bright yellow after bleaching.
When the hair has been properly lifted but requires a strong toner, consider using a regular lifting toner. These toners contain some lift and are highly pigmented, effectively neutralizing yellow tones for cold blonde results.
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Ammonia-free toners are ideal for toning without ammonia or lifting. They are strongly pigmented, work in just 10 minutes, and condition the hair. These toners are particularly useful for those with highlights or smudge roots, as they tone without affecting the base color.
Yes, toners can correct orange hair. For those with orange tones after bleaching, especially those who don't want ultra-white or platinum blonde results, level 9 toners are recommended. These toners effectively neutralize orange tones, resulting in a beautiful, consistent medium blonde.
You can use a toner immediately after bleaching. Rinse the hair after bleaching, towel-dry to remove excess moisture, and then apply the toner.
Both toners and glosses function similarly, but glosses generally do not lift the hair. Glosses are used for quick refreshes and toning, while toners offer more lift and stronger results.
Purple shampoos, masks, and color-depositing conditioners contain purple and blue pigments that tone blonde hair. However, they only deposit color on the outside of the hair and last only a few days. Toners, on the other hand, penetrate the hair cuticle for longer-lasting results.
Color-conditioning products like purple shampoos and masks can be used during the bleaching process or after bleaching and toning as a maintenance product. When bleaching, add some purple shampoo or mask to the bleach mix. After bleaching or toning, apply directly to the hair, rub in thoroughly, leave for a few minutes, and then rinse. For maintenance, substitute purple shampoo and mask for your regular shampoo at least once a week.
The best toner for blonde hair is either an intense permanent toner or a regular lifting permanent toner.
Yes, you can use blue-based ash blonde colors on brown hair to neutralize unwanted warmth.
Yes, depending on the level of your hair and the level of the toner, using a toner can darken your hair slightly while neutralizing unwanted tones.
In addition to using hair toners, you can take several measures to prevent brassiness and maintain vibrant hair color:
Orange hair can occur even with the most carefully planned color creations. Here's how to tone orange hair to perfection:
Unwanted warmth in hair typically appears as either orange or yellow. Yellow tones are common in hair at levels 7-10 (dark to very light blonde), while orange tones usually appear in levels 5-7 (dark blondes to dark brunettes and redheads).
Orange tones can arise for several reasons:
To neutralize orange tones, use products with blue pigments. A touch of violet can also help with yellow-orange strands at level 7.
Violet shampoo can help correct and neutralize brassy hair with yellow tones. The violet pigments cancel out unwanted yellow tones, leaving hair beautifully balanced.
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