The Ultimate Hairstyle Guide for Curly-Haired Women
Curly hairstyles are timeless and offer endless opportunities for self-expression. Whether you prefer bold and voluminous looks or sleek and sophisticated styles, embracing your natural curls is key to feeling confident and radiant. This comprehensive guide provides all the information you need to choose and create the perfect curly hairstyle for your unique curl type, hair porosity, and density.
Understanding Your Curly Hair
Before diving into specific hairstyles, it's crucial to understand your hair's characteristics:
Curl Type
Identifying your curl type is the first step in selecting the most flattering hairstyles. The Andre Walker system categorizes curls into types 2 (wavy), 3 (curly), and 4 (coily). Each type has sub-classifications (A, B, and C) based on the width or diameter of the wave, curl, or coil.
- Type 2 (Wavy Hair): Characterized by an "S" pattern that lies close to the head.
- 2A: Subtle, barely-there texture that is easy to straighten.
- 2B: Flatter at the crown with defined "S" waves beginning from mid-lengths.
- 2C: Thicker and more prone to frizz, with defined "S" bends starting at the root.
- Type 3 (Curly Hair): Ranges from loose, buoyant loops to tight, springy corkscrews with shine.
- 3A: Shiny with broader, looser curls about the size of sidewalk chalk.
- 3B: Tighter curls with a diameter comparable to a marker.
- 3C: Tight corkscrews with diameters similar to straws or pencils, densely packed with natural volume.
- Type 4 (Coily Hair): Features tight, zigzag or Z-patterned strands with significant shrinkage and fragility.
Most people with textured hair have more than one pattern on their head, so you may have a combination of kinky, coily, wavy, and curly. Identifying your curl shape and pattern(s) is best determined while your hair is sopping wet.
Hair Porosity
Hair porosity refers to your hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture. This affects how well your hair responds to styling products and treatments.
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- High Porosity: Hair easily absorbs moisture but struggles to retain it, leading to dryness and frizz.
- Low Porosity: Hair resists absorbing moisture, causing products to sit on the surface.
Hair Density
Density refers to the number of hair strands per square inch on your scalp. Knowing your hair density helps determine how much product to use to achieve your desired style without weighing your hair down.
Essential Techniques for Curly Hair Styling
Styling curly hair requires specific techniques to enhance natural texture, minimize frizz, and protect your tresses:
- Use a Wide-Toothed Comb: A wider comb is preferable if you do have to comb out a knot. Otherwise, it is advised that you try not to brush your hair while it’s dry.
- Apply Leave-In Conditioner: Applying leave-in conditioners help to moisturize and prepare your locks before you create your curly hairstyle.
- Protect Your Curls at Night: Once you’ve created your curly hairstyle, you want it to last all the way to your next wash day. That means protecting your curls at night with a satin bonnet, satin pillowcase, or wearing your hair in a loose scrunchie.
- Avoid Heat Where Possible: Whilst reaching for the curling iron can help define some curls, your hair will thank you for keeping heat usage to a minimum. When blow-drying your curls, use a diffuser attachment on a low heat setting to maintain their shape and prevent excess frizz. The Laifen SE Hair Dryer, with its intelligent heat control and whisper-quiet motor, lets you dry with volume and definition intact.
Must-Have Products for Curly Hair
Choosing the right styling products is vital for creating and maintaining your desired curly hairstyle. Curlsmith stylers are ranked from 1-10 in terms of their strength of hold. From soft hold (1) to strong hold (10).
- Creams: Provide a softer hold and enhance curls.
- Jellies: Have water-based formulas with a light/medium hold with a light cast.
- Foams: Provide volume and leave you with weightless, big curls.
- Soufflés: Provide a buildable hold with a flexible cast.
- Gels: Provide a stronger hold, with definition and a long-lasting style.
- Hairspray: Helps you hold your style in place for a longer lasting look.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Avoiding the Hairdresser: Getting a regular trim is important for curls. It means you remove any split ends and reduce the appearance of damaged hair, helping to reduce frizz.
- Applying Too Much Product: You don’t want to weigh your waves, curls or coils down with too much product.
- Having Unrealistic Expectations: Having a good understanding on the way your hair behaves is a great way to ensure you can expect realistic styles from your locks. If you have type 2a hair, you can’t expect it to react to a style or product the way type 4c hair might.
Curly Hairstyles for Different Face Shapes
Finding the perfect curly hairstyle also involves considering your face shape. Different styles can enhance your features and create a more balanced look:
- Round Face:
- Soft layers can frame the face, creating the illusion of length and reducing roundness.
- Side-swept bangs add asymmetry, elongating the face.
- Long curls falling below the chin elongate the face and create a flattering silhouette.
- Oval Face: Experiment with various curly hairstyles, from short bobs to long layers, as most styles complement balanced features.
- Curly bangs highlight your forehead and accentuate your eyes.
- Square Face:
- Soft, loose waves soften the angles of a square face, creating a more feminine appearance.
- Shoulder-length curls add volume and movement, balancing out a strong jawline.
- Side-parted styles break up the symmetry of a square face, drawing attention away from angular features.
- Heart-Shaped Face:
- A textured bob with layers around the chin area balances the wider forehead and narrower chin.
- Half-up half-down curls add volume to the upper part of the face, creating balance.
- A curly pixie cut with soft, wispy bangs complements the heart-shaped face by accentuating the cheekbones and drawing attention to the eyes.
- Diamond Face:
- Voluminous curls add width around the cheekbones, balancing out the narrowness of the diamond face shape.
- A layered bob with curls starting below the chin softens the angles of the face.
- Side-swept curls add width to the cheekbones and draw attention away from the sharp chin.
Inspiring Curly Hairstyles
- Wet Look: Using glossy hair products to minimize dull hair, you can create this shimmering wet look curly hairstyle. Try this look after washing and applying leave-ins, then use Shine Jelly to create medium hold or Shine Gel for a strong hold.
- Elegant Up-Do: A creative way to keep hair out of your face as you go about your day. Great for all curl patterns, this curly hairstyle creates an elegant finish no matter the occasion. This curly hairstyle is a great option for bringing elegance to your look, perfect as a hairstyle for a wedding.
- Colorful Curls: Experimenting with a look isn’t just for those with straight hair! You can create colorful and fun curly hairstyles, without the damage! Curlsmith temporary hair colors coat your curls in a vibrant pigment, and wash off with one shampoo, without leaving residue.
- Burst Fade: Combines a fade that curves around the ear with defined curls on top.
- Curtain Bangs with Airy Layers: This style combines soft, face-framing curtain bangs with airy layers to reduce bulk. It works with the curl’s natural volume while guiding strands away from the face. The bangs open the features without overwhelming them.
- Rounded Bob: Cut just below the jawline, this bob maintains a rounded shape that mirrors the curl’s natural spiral. It softens sharp features while keeping bounce and volume balanced.
- Long Layers with a Deep Side Part: Long layers remove weight while adding motion. Paired with a deep side part, this style brings visual lift and asymmetry that flatters rounder face shapes.
- High, Loose Ponytail: A high, loose ponytail at the crown is a visual celebration of curl texture. Curls spill forward like a fringe, framing the face softly. It prevents flattening overnight and doubles as an effortless day look.
- Modern Shag: This modern shag layers curls at every level creating a naturally tousled, lived-in texture. The layered structure allows for more even volume and lightness around the ends.
- Long Bob: A curly long bob is still versatile enough for you to wear both up and down.
- Pixie-Bob Hybrid: Make a real impact with a modern "bixie" which is a mix between a bob and pixie cut.
- Tousled Bob: For a laid-back, minimalistic approach, try a short bob with fringe and style it with plenty of movement and texture.
- Floating Bob: An extra-short, ear-grazing bob looks sophisticated and polished. Even better, try accessorising it with dangly earrings for a show-stopping moment.
- Shaggy Bob: For looser waves, a shaggy, layered bob is a great way to ease into a shorter style.
- Layered Bob: A layered bob with curls that start below the chin helps to soften the angles of the face, creating a more harmonious appearance.
The Curly Girl Method: A Deeper Dive
For those seeking a more structured approach, the Curly Girl Method (CGM) is a popular routine that emphasizes gentle cleansing, deep conditioning, and specific styling techniques to enhance natural curls.
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Key Principles of the Curly Girl Method:
- Sulfate-Free Cleansing: Avoid harsh sulfates that strip natural oils.
- Silicone-Free Products: Silicones can create buildup and prevent moisture from penetrating the hair shaft.
- Co-Washing: Cleanse with conditioner instead of shampoo to retain moisture.
- Deep Conditioning: Regularly use deep conditioners or hair masks to hydrate and nourish curls.
- Plopping: Use a t-shirt or microfiber towel to gently dry curls and enhance their shape.
- Scrunching: Apply styling products and scrunch curls upwards to encourage definition.
- Air Drying or Diffusing: Avoid direct heat and opt for air drying or using a diffuser on a low setting.
- Protecting Hair at Night: Use a satin bonnet or pillowcase to minimize friction and preserve curl definition.
Styling Tips for Naturally Curly Hair
- Shampoo sparingly: Use less shampoo. If you can skip shampoo, do so. I trust you to know how long it’s been since you last washed, how oily your scalp tends to be, and so on. But if you do want to wash your hair, only use about a quarter of the amount of shampoo you usually would use. Your goal here is to clean your scalp and roots but to leave the rest of your hair alone. You might need to add more water to help distribute the shampoo all over your scalp. The lather will be less dense than you’re used to, but that’s okay. Rinse.
- Condition generously: Now, grab your conditioner. You’re going to fully saturate your whole head with it, and you aren’t going to rinse all of it out. You’ll probably use double the amount you usually do. Get it in your hair really well. Add a little more water if you need to. You want your hair to feel completely coated and slippery.
- Detangle gently: Now that conditioner is coating your hair and providing tons of slip, dump your head upside down. Use your fingers to gently detangle your hair while directing your hair away from your scalp, towards the floor of the shower. Add a little more water as needed if there are sections that are giving you trouble. You want your fingers to easily slide through your hair all over your head. Coil your hair into a bun on top of your head. Leave the conditioner in while you finish your shower.
- Rinse partially: When you’re done with all your other showering tasks, dump your head upside down again. Unwind the coiled bun and run your fingers through it to break up the coil. Put your head under the water flow with your head still upside down, and without touching your hair at all. You want the water to waterfall over your hair, and you want to leave most of your conditioner in. Your goal here is to use the water to get your curls to clump together, not to rinse all your conditioner out. When you can see the water has hit all of your hair you’re done. Turn the water off with your head still upside down.
- Form curls or waves: With your palms facing up, press the ends of your hair up towards your scalp. Don’t close your hands into fists. This isn’t scrunching. It’s to get some of the water out and see where your curls are naturally clumping together. Only do this once or twice. You want your hair to still be dripping wet for the next step.
- Apply styling product: Grab your styling product. Squeeze some into the palm of your hand, then distribute it evenly between your palms. The amount you will need will depend on the product and the amount of hair you have. You want your hair to wind up fully coated, though. Glaze the product over the back and sides of your head and down the lengths of your hair. Do this lightly so you aren’t breaking up the curl pattern you’ve formed. Again with your palms facing up, press the ends of your hair up towards your scalp. Close your hands into fists as you reach your roots. Give your hair a little squeeze - you should be able to feel and hear a ton of product in there. Do this all over your head, turning from side to side to get the back. You want your curls to be clumped together at this point. They’ll separate out quite a bit as they dry. Don’t attempt to separate them now. If your hair doesn’t feel like it has a fair amount of product in it, you likely haven’t used enough. Don’t be afraid to use quite a bit more, in order to ensure you’ve covered every curl or wave with your product.
- Plopping: Grab your old t-shirt and lay it on the toilet seat. Accordion your curls onto the shirt, then tie the sleeves to fasten it onto your head. Dry off your body, get dressed, do your makeup, etc.
- Unplop: Turn your head upside down and gently take the t-shirt off. Stand up and shake your curls back and away from your face. Use the t-shirt to gently scrunch your curls, leaning from side to side to make sure you get your whole head. Don’t forget the back! And don’t “over-scrunch.” You want to gently encourage curl formation. You don’t want to squeeze your styling product out or break up your curl clumps.
- Do nothing: Leave your hair alone, without touching it, until it is dry. If you must use a blow dryer, use one with a diffuser. Keep the dryer on low. Hover the dryer around your head rather than touching your hair with the diffuser at all. If you don’t have a diffuser, please air dry. Blowing your curls around will ruin all your hair work.
- Scrunch out the crunch: Ideally, your hair will get hard as it dries. A good styling product for curls will have a lot of hold. This means it will form a cast around your curls to protect them as they dry. It will also set curls in place so they’ll stay where you want them, rather than frizzing out or falling flat. When your hair is completely dry, you can get rid of this cast. In curly girl circles, this is known as “SOTC,” for “scrunch out the crunch.” You must wait until your hair is absolutely 100% dry to do this, but it’s easy to do. Dump your head upside down. Gently start squeezing your hair up, from the ends towards the roots, like you did when you were applying product. Keep going until you can’t feel any crunch anymore. You’ll want to massage your scalp lightly with your fingers to SOTC at the roots. Doing this will give you more volume, too. Stand up and shake your hair back from your face. You might want to move a few curls from one side to the other to get your part where you want it. That’s fine, but be okay with a messy part. You would have to break up some curls to get a straight line, and that would cause frizz. However, if a group of curls is clumped together and it looks a bit odd, it’s okay to gently separate them out. Start at the ends of your hair and work your way towards the root, looking to see where the natural division is between the curls.
Short Haircuts for Curly Hair
If you've been dreaming about chopping your hair, you're not alone. Short styles-from pixie cuts to bobs-have been the cut of the season. While shorter styles used to go hand in hand with straighter hair types, short, curly styles are equally as popular. The rising popularity of the short, curly style is due to the fact that the length brings out the best of natural curls and is relatively easy to maintain, even during a heat wave or frizz-inducing rainy day. Since a short haircut is also a statement in itself, there's minimal additional styling that needs to be done.
What to Do Before Your Cut
First and foremost, make sure you go to a hairstylist who is well-versed in curls and coils. “Don’t be afraid to ask them questions-or check out their Instagram to see if it chimes with your own style,” says Tracey Hyatt, a textured hair specialist for Aveda and at Gary Ingham Aveda Salon. “If they say a six or seven, I know they are looking for a style that would give options for a longer version at some point," says Christophe Pontin, artistic director and educator at Aveda. An eight or nine would definitely be a green light for big [change]."
The other benefit of curly hair is the versatility. “It can create all kinds of shapes from architectural, rigid looks to soft layered looks, chic pixies to long, shaggy cuts,” shares Jake Schaverien, hairstylist at HARI’s South Kensington. “I love to work as naturally as possible with the hair type in front of me, especially with more coiled, tight hair types. Each head of hair is unique, so we adapt to each client for that personal, bespoke touch.” Experts note that with short haircuts, you’ll likely need more frequent trims to manage upkeep-specifically every seven to eight weeks.
Another important factor that comes into play when considering a short cut is your wash routine. “I usually ask how often you wash your hair and if you like to spend time styling your curls, as this affects the cut choice,” says Marcos Durvan Alvis, a stylist at HARI’s Northcote Road.
How to Find Your Best Style
Hyatt is a big fan of a graphic cut or close crop for tighter curls and coils. “Tightly tapered at the back, leaving the weight on top, for example, is striking and elegant,” she says, citing Letitia Wright and Lashana Lynch as her go-to muses. Meanwhile, short waves and ringlets go well with thicker curls. “Fine curls respond well to scrunch-drying and volume-adding products, and with a short haircut can benefit from more structure and definition,” Hyatt adds.
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For Pontin, he recommends creating a mood board with inspirational cuts to show your hairstylist, so you have an idea of what you do and don’t want it to look like. “Every curly hair type is different and has to be approached in a specific way with a good consultation to determine the diameter and density of the hair and consider shrinkage, too,” he says, which is why going to an expert is key.
How to Style Your Cut
Great hair starts with a healthy scalp, so make sure to incorporate a clarifying shampoo at least monthly to help “remove any build-up that can be left on the hair”, says Miffy Goknil, a stylist at HARI’s King’s Road. “Build-up prevents the hair from absorbing water, which will dehydrate the hair long-term, leaving it dull and frizzy.”
Then, gently squeeze out the water with a microfiber towel and apply a deep moisturising mask before rinsing it off. “Hair type will determine how rich you want the mask to be. Opt for light moisture if your hair is damaged or a protein-based conditioner to help reinforce the structure of the hair,” Goknil suggests. Hyatt agrees that hydration is key. “Treat your curls regularly with a hair oil, such as Aveda’s Miraculous Oil, a moisturising serum, or a leave-in conditioner, and do it daily. Moisture will activate your curls, and dryness is your enemy,” she emphasizes. Hyatt also adds that, “a good priming spray will pay dividends, and a silk scarf, bonnet or pillow for sleeping will help your curls retain their hydration through the driest of nights.” If you’re using heat to dry your hair, Schaverien recommends using a “diffuser on the gentlest speed setting and switch between medium and hot heat”.
At your appointment, make sure to ask your hairstylist for the best routine for your specific curl pattern and hair type. While moisture is important, keeping your curls hydrated may differ, as some hair types require heavier products while others may benefit from lighter formulas-or even a combination of gels and foams for extra body and volume.
Maintaining Healthy Curls
Consistency is key to keeping your curly hair in shape:
- Hydration is key: Keep your curls moisturized and defined by using hydrating shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, and leave-in treatments.
- Use the right products: Invest in styling products specifically designed for curly hair, such as curl-enhancing creams, mousses, and gels, to help tame frizz and define your curls. Look for leave-ins with hydrating ingredients like shea butter, coconut oil, or aloe. Avoid sulfates and silicones.
- Embrace diffusing: When blow-drying your curls, use a diffuser attachment on a low heat setting to maintain their shape and prevent excess frizz.
- Regular trims: Schedule regular trims to keep your curls looking fresh and prevent split ends, allowing your hairstyle to maintain its shape and vitality.
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