A cowlick can be a frustrating reality for men seeking a perfectly coiffed hairstyle. This article breaks down what a cowlick is, how it affects the hair, and explores the best and worst men's hairstyles for those grappling with this common hair phenomenon.
A cowlick is an area of hair that grows in a different direction or angle from the rest of the hair. As Lynndy Rolfe, International Educator for Andis Clippers, explains, “A cowlick is a strong swooping pattern in the hair, usually found in the hairline at the front of your head, that causes hair to pop up in various directions." The name originates from the swirled, swooping pattern that often resembles the hair on a calf after being licked by its mother.
Cowlicks are a natural occurrence, influenced by genetics, and are almost never perfectly placed to create the perfect symmetrical haircut for a perfect experience. They are pretty much always off-center and can have dramatic results.
Lynndy notes that cowlicks are “most noticeable in straight to wavy hair types and tend to compromise styling options.”
Cowlicks can appear in various locations on the head, including:
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Cowlicks are strong by nature; they grow in a definite direction, and the hair can be straighter and more rigid. Working against them can be frustrating. As one barber put it, cowlicks are almost never perfectly placed to create the perfect symmetrical haircut for a perfect experience. They are pretty much always off-center and can have dramatic results. I’ve got one on the side of my head which, if I grow it out, makes my hair look like Ronald McDonald’s afro!
Instead of viewing cowlicks as a hindrance, some barbers see them as an opportunity to enhance a hairstyle. The key is to work with the cowlick's natural growth pattern, letting it dictate the style to some extent.
One barber describes this approach as "letting the cowlick think it's in charge." The majority of hairstyles I cut work well with the majority of cowlicks, provided that I work with what the cowlick is giving me. The barber illustrates this with an example:
A client struggled to style his hair backward, complaining about its "puffy" appearance. Upon examination, the barber noticed the hair grew in a circular pattern, naturally directing itself to the right and front, causing the unwanted puffiness.
Instead of forcing the hair against its natural inclination, the barber adapted the style. He combed the hair in the direction it naturally laid, then cut it to feather back, creating the desired backward-combed effect. By working with the hair's natural growth pattern, the client could easily replicate the style daily.
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I adapted… I combed the hair into the direction which it wanted to lay down easily, and then cut it so that it would feather back to give that backward-combed feel. I explained to him what the hair was doing, and then showed him how he can get around it and make it work day-to-day without the hassles.
Follow the cowlick and adapt the style to what it gives you.
According to Anthony Leronimou, founder of HUSLRS Barbershop, men with cowlicks on their hairline should avoid crop hairstyles. These styles can be difficult to maintain with a straight fringe due to the cowlick's tendency to disrupt the hair's alignment.
There are several techniques to manage and style cowlicks:
Cutting it out: This is temporary, at best. However, it does solve the problem during that time. I refer to it as cutting down the rooster tail. Done correctly, the hair is reduced (not completely taken off) and will have to regrow. This usually hides the cowlick for a couple of weeks, sometimes longer. However, once it grows to a certain point, it can stand out a bit.
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Grow it out: This works best with medium or long length hair styles. As the hair grows, it gets heavier, and gravity takes over and pulls the hair downward - not straight down, but to a point where the cowlick is now adding a texture and/or shape to the hairstyle.
Wet it Some cowlicks are easily tamed by simply wetting them and letting them dry, especially in the bangs area. Wet the hair, or a comb, or brush, and then run it through the area a few ties in the direction that you want the cowlick to go.
Dry it: Some cowlicks need a bit more help. Wet the area and then use a blow dryer to dry the hair into place. You may need to approach it from different directions. The idea is that wet hair is more manageable and the heat of blow drying it helps to hold it in one position.
Gel it in place: Holding a cowlick in place is a good use for a gel or strong paste (or clay, pomade, spray etc…). Depending on how strong the cowlick is, you will probably want to get some of the good stuff for that area - not necessarily your entire head, especially if you end up needing to use the firm or extra firm hold versions.
If a client isn't a fan of slicked-back styles or sleek crops, Lynndy suggests using strong-hold products to tease the hair and create a more undone look, so the cowlick blends in. Anthony expands on this, saying: “I advise clients to wet their cowlick as an easy way to tame it. Running a wet brush or comb through the cowlick a couple of times and using a blow dryer to set it makes it easier to style the hair in the direction you want. A strong hold product is also worth investing in to help weigh down the stubborn hair.”
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