Hair loss, or alopecia, is a widespread issue affecting individuals globally. For centuries, diverse cultures have integrated herbs into hair growth formulations, evident in traditional Ayurvedic and Chinese practices. While modern medicine offers drug-based therapies like minoxidil and finasteride, their side effects have spurred interest in natural alternatives for hair loss prevention. This article delves into the potential benefits and applications of various herbs in combating hair loss, examining the scientific evidence and traditional uses associated with each.
Hair plays a role in thermoregulation, physical protection, and social interaction. Hair disorders, including alopecia, negatively affect health. Alopecia is characterized by reduced hair density and can stem from various underlying causes, such as inflammation, infection, systemic diseases (thyroid dysfunction, lupus), or even psychological factors like trichotillomania. While not life-threatening, alopecia can significantly impact a person's esthetics, social life, and overall quality of life.
Hair growth is a complex process involving hair follicles (HFs) composed of dermal papilla cells (DPCs) and epithelial cells. The hair follicle undergoes cyclical phases: anagen (growth), catagen (regression), telogen (rest), and exogen (shedding). These transitions are regulated by growth-stimulating and inhibitory factors.
Alopecia is classified into several types:
Natural products have a long history of safe use with minimal side effects. Plants contain a variety of components, such as polyphenols, flavonoids, terpenoids, carotenoids, and fatty acids, which support the health of hair follicles. Plant-based formulations are readily available from low-cost materials and have been recognized for their non-toxic effects since ancient times. While natural products are widely used to prevent hair loss, their exact mechanisms of action are not always fully understood.
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Many herbs have been traditionally used and are being studied for their potential to promote hair growth.
Aloe Vera (A. Barbadensis Mill.): This tropical plant is a popular remedy for burns and digestive issues. It may also keep the scalp conditioned and healthy, supporting healthy hair growth due to its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antioxidant properties. It helps soothe sunburn, inflammation, or irritated skin.
Brahmi (Bacopa monnieri): This creeping herb, used in Ayurvedic medicine, contains alkaloids that may activate proteins responsible for hair growth.
Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa sinensis): This evergreen shrub with edible flowers is believed to stimulate hair follicles, increase follicle size, and promote hair growth. As with fenugreek, it’s believed hibiscus may increase blood flow to the scalp and stimulate the follicles.
Coat buttons (Tridax procumbent): This creeping Ayurvedic herb and member of the daisy family contains antioxidants and promotes hair growth, especially when combined with other herbs.
Read also: Causes of Dry Scalp and Hair Loss
False daisy (Eclipta alba): Used in Ayurveda, this herb helps stimulate hair follicles and promotes faster hair growth. According to a study from 2014, false daisy helps stimulate hair follicles and provokes a faster hair growth stage in nude mice.
Fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum): This member of the pea family is a popular spice with potential hair-growing benefits, improving hair volume and thickness. In a 2006 clinical study, people with moderate hair loss took daily fenugreek supplements for 6 months. The first is that fenugreek might help stimulate blood circulation to the scalp. More blood means the hair follicles get the oxygen and nutrients they need to thrive.
Ginseng (Panax ginseng): This age-old remedy contains saponins, believed to encourage hair growth by inhibiting 5α-reductase, an enzyme related to hair loss in men. Ginseng has been used for centuries in Chinese medicine as a herbal oil remedy for hair loss.
Gotu kola (Centella asiatica): This popular Ayurvedic herb increases hair length and stimulates hair growth, possibly by increasing blood circulation to the scalp. Gotu kola is a popular herb used in traditional Indian Ayurveda medicine. It contains phenols and flavonoids - basically, things that make it a powerful antioxidant.
Jatamansi (Nardostachys jatamansi): The rhizomes of this small shrub may speed hair growth and have been shown to increase hair growth in alopecia caused by chemotherapy.
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Night-flowering jasmine (Nyctanthes arbortristis): Research suggests that this small, flowering shrub may initiate hair growth and be effective against alopecia. According to 2016 research, night-flowering jasmine initiated hair growth in rats and may be effective against alopecia.
Oriental arborvitae (Thuja orientalis): This evergreen tree helps hair grow by stimulating the growth stage in resting hair follicles.
Red clover (Trifolium pratense): Red clover blocks an enzyme called 5-alpha reductase that converts testosterone into dihydrotestosterone, and helps lower inflammation, which can help hair grow.
Rosemary: Rosemary is believed to increase blood flow to the scalp, boosting the delivery of oxygen and nutrients to the hair follicles.
Stinging nettle (Urtica dioica): Stinging nettle may help improve hair growth. The plant has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties that may help support a healthy scalp.
Tuber fleeceflower (Polygonum multiflorum): This tuber is a traditional Chinese medicine remedy for hair loss. It contains compounds that inhibit 5a reductase enzymes. It also helps stimulate the growth stage in hair follicles. 2,3,5,4-Tetrahydroxystilbene-2-O-D-glucoside (TSG), a major component of PM, induces new hair growth in C57BL/6J mice.
Espinosilla (Loeselia mexicana): This herb, grown in Mexico, is used to strengthen hair follicles and maintain a healthy scalp, with some evidence of hair growth in male mice.
Goji berry (Lycium chinense Mill): This fruit-bearing shrub contains zinc, which may infuse the scalp with oil to prevent dandruff, potentially reducing hair loss.
Holy basil (Ocimum sanctum): This fragrant, adaptogenic herb may help prevent hair loss caused by dandruff and itching or hormonal changes.
Lavender oil: Lavender oil is often used to treat dandruff due to its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.
Marking nut (Semecarpus anacardium): This plant, found in the sub-Himalayan area, is used in Ayurvedic and Siddha medicine to help hair grow, but more research is needed.
Peppermint oil: Similar to lavender oil, peppermint oil was found to increase the number and depth of follicles in mice. This may be because it’s a vasodilator - it opens up your blood vessels and increases blood flow to the scalp, delivering more oxygen and nutrients to your follicles.
Saw palmetto: While widely discussed, more data is needed to confirm its effectiveness in treating hair loss.
Herbs can be incorporated into various topical formulations to target hair growth:
Hair oils (hair tonics): Herbal extracts mixed in a carrier oil base (coconut, almond, olive, etc.). Some herbs used in herbal hair oils are Chinese hibiscus, Brahmi, Coat buttons, Jatamansi, Ginseng.
Herbal ointments (salves): Herbs combined with an oil-based substance like lanolin or petroleum jelly and water. Some herbs used in polyherbal ointments are Gooseberry, Gotu kola, Aloe vera, Holy basil.
Herbal creams: Herb-infused oils and water, easily absorbed by the skin. Some herbs used to make herbal creams are Giant dodder, Bitter apple, False daisy, Night-flowering jasmine.
Herbal gels: Herbal extracts in a gel base, typically without oil. Herbs used in herbal gels to support healthy hair may include Fenugreek, Marking nut.
Cubosomal suspensions: Liquid, crystalline nanoparticles used to deliver herbal remedies. Some herbs used in cubosomal suspensions for hair growth are Oriental arborvitae, Espinosilla, Goji berry, Tuber fleeceflower.
Phytochemicals and their active constituents have been shown to promote hair growth by influencing various growth factors and cytokines.
Growth factors such as fibroblast growth factor (FGF), vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), keratinocyte growth factor (KGF), insulin-like growth factor (IGF), epidermal growth factor (EGF), and hepatocyte growth factor (HGF) act as hair growth stimulators, while transforming growth factor-β1 (TGF-β1) is a hair growth suppressor.
Several studies have demonstrated the ability of plant extracts and compounds to modulate these growth factors:
Cytokines such as interleukin (IL)-1α, IL-1β, tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α), interferon-γ (IFN-γ), IL-2, IL-4, and IL-5 can influence the hair cycle. IL-1α, IL-1β, and TNF-α are potent inducers of hair loss.
The main risk of herbal hair growth products is allergic reaction. Always perform a patch test before using any new herb:
Potential side effects of topical herbal hair growth products include:
The side effects of most herbs for hair growth aren’t well-studied in humans, and there is not enough information to standardize dosing recommendations. Women who are pregnant or breastfeeding should avoid using herbs to grow hair unless under the supervision of a doctor or qualified natural health practitioner.
While herbs can be a valuable addition to hair care, a holistic approach is crucial. Consider these complementary strategies:
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