How to Balayage Hair at Home: A Comprehensive Guide

Balayage highlights offer a sun-kissed, low-maintenance, and multidimensional look, making them an appealing DIY hair color option. While achieving the DIY balayage look at home might seem more complex than applying a single-color box dye, it's entirely possible with the right guidance and products. This article provides a detailed handbook to achieving salon-inspired balayage highlights on your own terms, covering everything from preparation and application to maintenance and troubleshooting.

Understanding Balayage

"Balayage," derived from a French term meaning "to sweep," is a freehand highlighting technique where color is strategically painted onto the hair for a natural, blended effect. Unlike traditional foil highlights, balayage offers a softer, more seamless transition between the highlighted strands and the base color. This technique allows for a completely custom color application that looks different on everyone. Balayage highlights softly flow with your hair because they seamlessly blend from the mid-lengths to the ends of your locks. Since these highlights create a low contrast with your base color, they add subtle depth and dimension that grows out gracefully.

Benefits of Balayage

Natural-looking highlights: The hand-painted application creates a soft, diffused effect that mimics sun-kissed hair.
Low maintenance: Balayage doesn't go to the root, so regrowth is less noticeable, extending the time between touch-ups. DIY balayage hair typically lasts 3 to 4 months. This is longer than foil highlights because regrowth is less noticeable with this style.
Customizable: The freehand technique allows for personalized color placement and tone selection.
Multidimensional color: Balayage adds depth and dimension to the hair, creating a more dynamic and vibrant look.

Preparing for Your DIY Balayage

Assessing Your Hair

Before diving into the balayage process, it's crucial to assess your hair's condition and color.

Hair color: Those with dark brown or black hair will likely require multiple bleaching sessions to achieve icy blonde balayage. Caramel or auburn balayage is often a better starting point for darker hair. For hair outside that scope, try nourishing Olia Highlights for Blondes if your hair is lighter or Olia Highlights for Brunettes on darker shades. For very dark brown or black hair, especially if it’s thick and/or coily, check out the three Caramelo Blondes.
Hair condition: Ensure your hair is healthy and strong enough to withstand the lightening process. If your hair is damaged or brittle, consider postponing the balayage and focusing on strengthening treatments.
Uneven color: If your current hair color is uneven, faded, or needs gray coverage, apply an all-over base color one or two weeks before applying balayage for a consistent undertone.

Gathering Your Supplies

Doing balayage at home is pretty simple, and you don’t need a ton of supplies. To ensure a smooth and successful DIY balayage experience, gather the following supplies:

Balayage kit: The L’Oréal Paris Superior Preference Balayage At-Home Highlighting Kit is a popular option.
Professional Lightener: If you're going to do it yourself USE PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS! I like to use Wella Blondor Multi Blonde Powder Lightener, It’s my favorite bleach to use!
Developer: You’re going to need some developer to get that lightener working! I would normally just use a 20 Volume developer, but when using Olaplaex you need to up your developer one level, So I use 30 Volume Creme Developer, which can also be purchased at Sally’s. The developer you choose will be based on how light or dark your natural hair color is. For example, if you were a baby with light hair then you should choose the 20 Volume. If you were a baby with dark hair then you should choose the 30 Volume.”
Olaplex: If you ever plan on lightening your hair, Olaplex is a necessity! Olaplex is a professional hair 3 step treatment to limit the amount of damage done to the hair when coloring and lightening. It strengthens, multiplies, and protects disulfide bonds, which means lighter and longer hair! This stuff is gold my friends. However, the only place to find it if you aren’t licensed is online! It can get pretty pricey, but it’s worth every penny. Olaplex Traveling Stylist Kit for All Hair Types Kit. Guys, even if you aren’t doing your hair yourself grab some Olaplex and bring it to your stylist! Tell her in advance in case she hasn’t used it before! It will literally save your hair!
Color bowl: Any color bowl works, I got mine from Sally Beauty Supply on sale for $1.50!
Applicator: The kit includes a new Expert Touch Applicator with a comfortable grip for a seamless application, allowing precise, blended color that mimics a professional colorist’s hand-painted highlights.
Color brush: Any color brush will work but I like to use an extra wide jumbo brush because it gets the job done faster. However, You can use a smaller brush for more control if you are feeling a little hesitant.
Gloves: Put on the gloves to protect your hands from the coloring agents. Latex gloves or even sandwich bags work if you don’t want to buy a whole box. Or Sally’s sells single pairs for about $2. These are very important, you could just do it with your hands but after a while that bleach WILL burn your fingers!
Towel: Use a cape, towel, old t-shirt, anything you don’t mind getting bleached or colored.
Comb: Not a brush, a comb. Any comb will do the job, I just use a normal barbering comb which you can get from Sally’s for a few cents.
Plastic wrap: Whichever plastic wrap you prefer.
Shampoo and mask: After your processing time has passed, rinse and shampoo your hair with lukewarm water until the water runs clear. Massage the mask onto your scalp for 30 seconds to lather the product, then evenly distribute it through the rest of your hair.
Three large hair clips.
Toner: Redken Redken Shades EQ 09V Platinum Ice . This one is on Amazon for about $10. Toner is used to add or neutralize pigment so if your not liking the color now (gold, warm, brassy), hold your breath! This toner will take away any brassy yellow pigments by adding violet pigments. Don’t freak out when your hair starts looking purple, it will wash out leaving you with a beautiful ash blonde! It left me with a beautiful silvery blonde which faded to a wonderful ash blonde. If you are wanting a different shade of blonde, for example a honey blonde or golden blonde try a 9Nw or 9G. Quick tip: To use my toner (9V) your hair has to be VERY light after bleaching! If you used the 9V and nothing happened, your hair is too dark.
Toner developer: Redken Shades EQ Gloss Processing Solution 33.8 Oz (1000 ml) is Shades EQ’s own developer. Yes, you need to use this specific developer. Don’t try to use a different developer with Shades EQ. From experience, the end result is off from what it should be and it fades faster. So yes, it is worth it to buy the Processing Solution.
Aloxxi Style Essential 7 Restorative Hair Serum. A cheaper alternative would also be a Moroccan oil or Argan oil!
Purple shampoo: Lastly, if you want to keep that ashy blonde, get yourself some purple shampoo! The rich purple color will cancel out any brassy tones.This works similarly to a toner just not as powerful! Perfect to keep up that color without the whole toning process!
Leave in conditioner: I cannot say this enough! Use a leave in conditioner every single time you wash your hair! That’s where you can continue to use Olaplex No. 3 or I also Revlon Uniqone Coconut.

Choosing the Right Balayage Shade

To choose the right balayage shade for your hair, consider your base color and select a shade for balayage hair color that’s 2 to 3 levels lighter. Our at-home kit for balayage highlights is formulated for base colors ranging from dark blonde to dark brown.

Read also: Balayage Technique

Step-by-Step Balayage Application

Prepare your hair: It is best that your hair is bit dirty, so second or third-day hair is perfect! Part your hair evenly down the middle with a wide-tooth comb and create two even sections like you’re creating pigtails. Pull your hair to the front, leaving one section on each side of your face.
Mix the color: Add 1/8 oz of Olaplex No.1 to 1 oz of lightening powder mix, then add your developer. Put on the gloves to protect your hands from the coloring agents and add the entire packet of bleaching powder to the developer cream. Shake the bottle so the powder can evenly mix. Then, add the entire tube of the lightening cream to the developer cream. Again, shake the bottle until all three products have absorbed together, creating one thick cream.
Apply the color: With the gloves on, slide the Expert Touch Applicator onto your middle and ring fingers. Using your other hand, section off a quarter-inch piece of hair at the back of your head. Use the applicator to apply the color to the quarter-inch section of hair from a few inches past the roots to the ends. Then, use your fingers to lightly massage the color into the hair so it’s evenly distributed. This is where you get to be creative. I pulled my first layer of hair forward in front of my shoulders and selected my 1st section. I varied my section width but remember to keep the height of your layers thin, if they are too thick the lightener will not penetrate and leave a splotchy look. Start by backcombing that section quite a bit. Next, decide how high you want your balayage and start applying. You don’t want to have very much bleach on your brush, start with a small amount and add more if you feel you need it. These are the three shapes I used when doing my own hair, you can use one or all of them! Once you have saturated your section, wrap it in a piece of plastic wrap. Make sure not to squeeze it, just pat it on to the section. You can also use a sandwich method and use two pieces of wrap to sandwich the hair. I like to keep the saturated ends more tight under the wrap so no air penetrates it while I leave the top more exposed. I do this to again help with the fade and blending. As you continue working, check on your oldest sections as to how they are processing. If you see a spot you need to fix, open it and add more bleach. Or if is as light as you want, pull off your wrap and let it dry out. You can also spray it with water to stop the processing. Remember that you may not get as light as you want the first time, so if it looks like it isn’t processing anymore, pull it out to prevent damage to your hair. Watch your hands! You have any bleach on your gloves then touch your hair, it will leave a spot!
Process the color: Once you’ve applied the color all over your hair, now it’s time for it to process. Let the color develop for 25-45 minutes, depending on your desired balayage results.
Rinse and shampoo: Wring out your hair so it is just damp then mix your toner. I mixed the whole 2oz of Redken 9V with 2oz Processing Solution. Mix this in a color bowl or application bottle and apply to all the lightened areas. Remember to really saturate! If you want to use my same toner, your hair needs to be very very light! Don’t get freaked out when your hair turns a bit silvery, mine was straight lavender. Keep your toner on for 20 min and then rinse and thoroughly towel dry. Next, add a generous amount of Olaplex No. 2 from roots to ends and comb through. Leave this on for a minimum of 10-20min you can let that baby soak in longer if you have previously damaged hair. After your processing time has passed, rinse and shampoo your hair with lukewarm water until the water runs clear. Massage the mask onto your scalp for 30 seconds to lather the product, then evenly distribute it through the rest of your hair.
Style your hair: Once you rinse your hair, style your new DIY balayage highlights as usual.

Face Frame Touch-Up ("Halo Effect")

"Doing a full head of balayage is very difficult, as it’s important to keep tension on the sections you pick up,” says Norris. If you don’t have a friend who can paint the back of your hair, then just focus on the front area for your at-home touch up.

Brush your hair out: You don’t want any tangles. This way the clay lightener can easily deposit onto the hair-achieving one consistent lift. “If you have very curly hair then use a wide tooth comb if preferred,” said Norris.
Clip your hair up: With your comb, draw a straight, vertical line down the center of your part all the way to the back of your neck. Then, starting at the top of your left ear, draw a straight, horizontal line to the top of your right ear. You should have four quadrants. With your 1st clip, combine the back two quadrants into one big section. Leave the back alone, as it will look like an intentional ombré. Now you should have the front left clipped and separated, as well as the front right clipped and separated from each other.
Mix your lightener: Next, scoop out some clay lightener into your mixing bowl. If you have a food scale use it to precisely measure your lightenera then add your cream lightener of choice. (Follow the company’s measuring ratios.) Mix the two together with your painting brush until you get a spackle-like consistency.
Put on gloves: You need to be sure that your hands are protected from the lightener.
Section your hair: With your sectioning comb, make a diagonal slice just above your ear. This slice should look like a backward slash ‘\’ on your keyboard. And within that section, make a ‘U’ shape. Tightly coiled hair will need to be pulled taught in order to ensure an even coating of the clay lightener. Due to the curl pattern, a smaller “U” section will be necessary. Regardless, this will be the carved out section you actually balayage. (Be sure to always include your hairline in this U section so that you benefit from face-framing brightness.)
Avoid a harsh line: Slightly tease, or back comb, the U section to diffuse any harsh lines.
Paint your hair: Take your painting bleach and painting brush and apply a small amount to the section of your hair in your hand, starting further down the hair shaft. Make sure to not get the painting bleach on your teased section or on your roots.
Blend the lightener by hand: With your middle and index fingers blend the line of contact where the painting bleach first touches your hair strands. And with your painting brush, coat the rest of the section in your other hand all the way down to the ends. Slide your fingers all the way through to get an even, smooth coat. “The next section you take on top of the balayage section you just did will be your “leave-out” section,” Norris says. Hair density plays a role in your sectioning. If you have fine hair, each section should be about 1/2” apart from each other. If you have coarse texture, each section should be about 1” apart from each other. The section you take on top of that will be your next painting section.
Repeat application process: Apply your lightener just as you did on the first section. Repeat this until you get to the top of your hair where your hair is parted and then set a timer for 20-30 minutes. Hair texture plays a role in how long you let the balayage sit. Thick/coarse texture will require longer so that the bleach has enough time to travel to the inner vortex and lift the hair.
Mirror the other side: While the one side of your hair is processing, repeat the same steps on the other side of your front hair section.
Rinse out the lightener: Rinse out the first section when hair is ready but wait to shampoo your entire head until the other section’s timer has gone off.
Wash your hair: When your hair has completely finished processing, hop in the shower and wash everything out. Using a violet toner shampoo and conditioner will help cancel out any unwanted warmth.

Maintaining Your Balayage

DIY balayage is lower maintenance than traditional highlights because it doesn’t go to the root. Still, you’ll want to ensure you take proper care of your hair to keep your highlights shiny and healthy. Maintaining your new highlights calls for regular use of balayage hair products to keep your highlights vibrant. By design, balayage hair color is a carefree style that keeps looking good as it grows out.

Limit washing: When you have color-treated hair, you’ll want to limit your hair washing to 2-3 times a week and try not to use harsh products.
Sulfate-free products: Stylists recommend using a sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner like the L’Oréal Paris EverPure Sulfate Free Bond Repair Shampoo with Citric Acid and the L’Oréal Paris EverPure Sulfate Free Bond Repair Conditioner with Citric Acid. Be sure not to use these toning products too frequently or you will overly deposit your hair color. Once a week at most. Also be sure to stick with a paraben- and sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner for all the in between washings and conditionings.
Heat protection: Heat styling is sometimes hard to avoid, but doing it frequently can damage your strands and make your color fade more rapidly. If you do need to blow-dry, curl, or flat iron your hair, make sure you protect your strands with a high-quality heat protectant. Try the L’Oréal Paris EverPure Sulfate-Free Blow Dry Primer. The leave-in treatment helps to smooth the hair, boost shine, and protect against temperatures up to 450 degrees Fahrenheit.
Toning shampoo and conditioner: As with any lightening or bleaching process, you’ll want to treat your hair with a violet or blue toning shampoo and conditioner once a week (and no more). The color of shampoo and conditioner you choose depends on your natural hair color. If you have dirty blonde to light hair then you should get a violet shampoo and conditioner. If your hair is a light brown to dark brown you should get a blue shampoo and conditioner.
Leave in conditioner: I cannot say this enough! Use a leave in conditioner every single time you wash your hair! That’s where you can continue to use Olaplex No. 3 or I also Revlon Uniqone Coconut.

Troubleshooting Common Balayage Issues

Brassiness: If your highlights turn brassy, use a purple shampoo to neutralize the yellow tones.
Uneven color: If you notice uneven color, you can carefully touch up the areas that need more lightening.
Damage: If your hair becomes damaged, focus on deep conditioning treatments and protein masks to restore its strength and elasticity. The Olaplex allowed me to go 4 shades lighter with almost no damage! But my hair had some split ends before so it’s a good idea to give yourself a baby trim.

Additional Tips and Considerations

Don't Over-Lighten: You only want to lift a few shades lighter than your natural color with a balayage, with a blended-in “grow out line”, which means you won’t need to touch it up as much or visit the salon for cleanups.
Hair Texture: “For example, if you have a lot of very curly hair, you’ll want to grab thicker pieces, creating a V-shape effect. And if you have fine, slightly wavy or straight hair, you’ll want to pick up thinner pieces, making a U shape with the balayage.”
Hair Color: “If you have a medium to dark hair color (think hazelnut to vanilla bean pod), your hair will lift to a soft caramel or toffee hue,” she says. “And if you have medium to light hair color (think pecan to champagne or mousy blonde), then your hair painting will lift to a strawberry blonde or the inside of a coconut hue.”
When to seek professional help: Of course, should something go awry or unplanned, book an appointment with a colorist/cosmetologist at your local salon. “We’re professionals who are skilled at knowing how to correct any ‘oops’ moments,” Norris says.

Read also: Clip-In Balayage Styles

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