Replacing a toilet wax ring is a common plumbing task, often undertaken when removing and reinstalling a toilet. The wax ring creates a seal between the toilet and the floor-mounted toilet flange (also known as a closet flange), preventing water and sewer gases from escaping. While some plumbing jobs are best left to licensed professionals, replacing a toilet wax ring is a manageable DIY project for many homeowners. This guide provides a comprehensive, step-by-step approach to ensure a successful installation.
Before you begin, it's crucial to gather the necessary tools and materials and to inspect the surrounding area for potential issues.
The first step is to turn off the water supply to the toilet. The shut-off valve is usually located behind or near the toilet. Turn the valve clockwise to stop the water flow. After shutting off the water, flush the toilet and hold the handle down to remove as much water as possible from the tank and bowl.
Next, disconnect the water supply tube from the toilet fill valve by loosening the 3/8-inch compression nut. This will make reinstallation easier.
After removing the toilet, immediately plug the drain to prevent sewer gas from entering your home. A 3"-4" gripper plug is recommended if the toilet will be removed for an extended period. For a 3 in. pipe use a Cherne 3 in. End of Pipe Gripper Plug. When working with a 4 in. pipe, use Cherne 4 in.
Read also: Is Your Toilet Wax Ring Leaking?
A thorough inspection of the toilet flange and the surrounding floor is crucial for a successful wax ring replacement.
Examine the toilet flange for any signs of damage. If the toilet wobbled from side to side before removal, the flange might be broken. The flange should be level with the finished floor. If new flooring has been installed and the flange is below the finished floor height, use the Oatey Set-Rite Flange Extender to raise the flange. The Set-Rite spacers come in sizes ranging from 1/8 to 3/4 in. and can reach a height of 2-¼ in. First, measure the height from the existing toilet flange to the finished floor. Purchase an extension kit according to this measurement, as spacers can be stacked on top of each other to maximize height. When installing an extension kit, insert the foam rubber gasket first before arranging the spacers and flange on top.
If you've installed new flooring that is thicker than the previous flooring (e.g., replacing vinyl with ceramic tile), it can create a gap between the toilet and the flange. In this case, use a flange spacer to raise the flange to the proper height.
If you removed the toilet due to a leak at the base or water damage in the ceiling below, identify the source of the damage before proceeding. Water can weaken the subfloor, affecting the strength of the fasteners that secure the flange and toilet to the floor.
With the area prepared, you can now install the new wax ring.
Read also: Causes of Wax Ring Problems
Anytime a wax seal is replaced, it's recommended to replace the T-bolts that attach the toilet to the flange. Consider using the Hercules® Johni-bolt®, a brass closet bolt with a time-saving, snap-off slot and captive washer. If you intend to keep the existing bolts, ensure they are in good condition before replacing the toilet wax ring. Check that the bolts are centered with the toilet flange opening and parallel with the finished wall behind the toilet tank. Alternatively, line the rim with silicone sealant. Slide Johni-Bolts into any intact slots and press the replacement ring to the sealant. Screw the repair ring to the subfloor using the hole at each of the four corners before wiping away excess sealant.
Place the new wax ring on the toilet flange or on the bottom of the toilet. Some prefer to place it on the toilet, as it can be easier to align the toilet with the bolts. Ensure the wax ring is properly seated and centered.
After reinstalling the toilet, there are a few final steps to ensure a proper seal and prevent leaks.
Reconnect the water supply tube to the toilet fill valve and tighten the compression nut.
Turn the water supply valve counterclockwise to turn the water back on and let the tank fill. Flush the toilet multiple times, while observing for any leaks around the base of the toilet and the water supply connections. Position tissues or toilet paper around the entire base of the toilet bowl where it meets the finished floor. Then, flush the toilet multiple times. If a leak is detected, identify the source as soon as possible before floor damage can occur.
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If no leaks are detected, you can caulk around the base of the toilet bowl where it meets the finished floor. This helps to prevent water from seeping under the toilet and causing damage to the subfloor. If there are no leaks, caulk around the seam between the toilet base and the floor with plumber’s caulk.
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