Individual Twist Hairstyles: A Comprehensive Guide

Next to braids and cornrows, twists might have to take the crown for the most low-maintenance and simultaneously versatile protective styles around. Individual twist hairstyles offer a fantastic way to protect natural hair, retain length and moisture, and provide a versatile base for various looks. You can style your hair in flat twists or individual twists, using extra hair for length or nothing but your natural curls. And if that wasn’t already enough to persuade you, they’re a brilliant way to keep your hair moisturized and protected from unnecessary damage. Whether you're a seasoned naturalista or just beginning your hair journey, understanding the nuances of individual twists can help you achieve stunning and healthy hairstyles.

What are Individual Twists?

Mini twists are a protective style that involves small sections of two-strand twists. “Each piece of hair is continuously crossed over the other, creating a rope-like pattern,” says Ashanti Johnson, a Chicago-based hairstylist and braider who works with the synthetic braiding hair brand Rebundle. The style can be done solely on natural hair or with kinky texture extensions to add a bit of length and fullness.

Preparing for Individual Twists

Essential Tools

To give yourself mini twists at home, your styling station should be prepped with:

• Parting comb to help section your hair
• Wide-tooth comb or brush to detangle as you go
• Leave-in conditioner or curl cream to enhance your curls
• Hair clips or scrunchies to secure your sections
• Braiding gel for neater parts
• Optional: kinky synthetic or human hair extensions

Step-by-Step Guide to Creating Mini Twists

1. Preparation: As with any protective style, it’s best to start with freshly washed hair to ensure your twists look neat and last as long as possible (dirty hair might have product buildup or tangles that make it difficult to style).
2. Moisturize: It’s also important to moisturize your strands before styling since you might not be able to do so as easily and thoroughly when your twists are in. Creating mini twists requires applying a bit of tension to the hair and well-conditioned hair is less likely to break during the process. Holdsworth suggests saturating your hair with a deep conditioner for 20 to 30 minutes and sealing your hair with a leave-in conditioner once you’ve hopped out of the shower.
3. Stretch (Optional): Before twisting your hair, you may want to stretch your curls by blow-drying. Though this step is optional, Holdsworth says that stretching your hair can “help make your twists appear longer and more uniform.” If you opt to blow-dry before twisting, Johnson recommends reapplying your leave-in product afterward to bring a little bit of your curl pattern back into your blown-out hair. This will keep your twists from looking and feeling limp.
4. Extensions (Optional): If you plan to use extensions for your mini twists you’ll need to consider what type of extensions you want and if your hair is a good fit for extensions. “If you’re someone with low-density hair [fewer strands per square inch], adding extensions will make the style heavier,” says Baton Rouge-based hairstylist Kelsey Edwards. According to the stylist, human hair is lighter than synthetic hair, so if you have low-density hair and want to add extensions, opting for human hair will give you more lightweight mini twists. Another benefit of human hair over synthetic extensions for this style is the natural look. “With synthetic hair, the curl tends to drop and the twists lose their bounciness over time with the more styles you put your twists in,” says New Jersey-based hairstylist Tukia Allen. “Whereas human hair will maintain that curl.”
5. Section the Hair: Separate your hair into four to six sections depending on how thick your hair is (you should be able to hold each section in one hand). Secure each section with scrunchies, leaving one loose.
6. Create the Twist: Within this loose section, grab a smaller segment about the width of a pencil. Use a pea-size amount of braiding gel to define the segment, making the part on your scalp appear crisper.
7. Apply Product: Smooth a pea-size amount of twisting cream or gel along the entire small section. (Holdsworth recommends Camille Rose Naturals Almond Jai Twisting Butter because it provides a soft hold and defines curls.)
8. Twist the Hair: Split this segment into two smaller pieces and begin twisting, wrapping one around the other, going clockwise. If you’re using extensions, this would be the time to add them. There are several techniques for adding extensions, including wrapping the extension starting at the root or adding the extensions further down after you’ve twisted a few inches of natural hair.
9. Secure the Ends: Continue twisting down the length of the hair until you reach the end. Twirl the ends around your finger in the same way you would create a finger coil until your twist is secure. Repeat this process across your entire head, section by section.

Longevity and Maintenance

How Long Do Mini Twists Last?

Mini twists can last up to four weeks. After that, the twists can begin to mat and tangle, turning into locs of sorts, explains Jamila Powell, a Florida-based hairstylist and founder of hair-care brand, Naturally Drenched.

Washing and Conditioning

If you’re planning on keeping your mini twists for a while, great news: You can wash them. Powell recommends adding two to three tablespoons of shampoo to an empty bottle that has a nozzle and diluting it with water. “Apply the mixture to the twists and scalp, gently massaging your scalp with your fingertips before rinsing thoroughly with water,” she says. Repeat the same steps for conditioner, then dry your hair with a microfiber towel, which absorbs more water and is gentler on the hair. You can also use a blow-dryer for speedy drying.

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Moisturizing

No matter how long you plan to keep your mini twists, it’s important to moisturize your hair and scalp throughout that time. Powell suggests spritzing on a hair mist (we like Pattern Hydrating Hair Mist for this) two to three times a week and using a hair oil to seal in the moisture.

If you’re using kinky human hair extensions for your mini twists, keeping the twists moisturized will be especially important, since the extensions and your natural hair will get frizzy from everyday wear and the environment. Spraying the twists with a hydrating, water-based product (like 4U By Tia Curl Refresher Mist) will keep the springy curls looking fresh and neat even weeks after you install them.

Hair Growth and Protection

Do Mini Twists Help Grow Out Your Hair?

Stylists agree that, as with many protective styles, mini twists can help you grow out your hair and retain its length. “This is because your hair is not exposed to daily manipulation,” Powell explains.

Board-certified dermatologist and licensed cosmetologist Yolanda Lenzy, MD, clarifies that hairstyles alone are not a means through which to grow your hair (there’s nothing about putting your hair in twists that will speed up your natural growth rate, but keeping it in a protective style can help prevent excess breakage) but the pro does agree that “mini twists, without added extensions, can be a good low tension style, for people looking to facilitate healthy hair.”

Styling Ideas for Individual Twists

Individual twists offer endless styling possibilities. Here are some ideas to inspire your next look:

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1. Accessorize: If you enjoy decorating your hair with accessories, then you know these golden cuffs make a style stand out with little effort.
2. Accent Twists: Curlies who thoroughly enjoy wearing twist-outs, braid-outs, and wash-and-go’s most of the time can add a couple of accent twists to add some variety to their everyday style.
3. Beaded Twists: Bring back the memories of yesteryear by adding beads to your twists and a waterfall ponytail.
4. Buns: A play on the classic bun done with twists, this hairstyle just requires you to loosely pull your twists up, secure them, and pin them in place. The key is to pin just the ends of the twists so they don’t loosen and the bun looks puffed up.
5. Colorful Hair: Colorful hair waxes allow you to push the boundaries of hair color without making any serious commitments-in short, it’s genius. Playing with your hair color while stuck inside is a good way to decide which colors work for you and which you might want to consider permanently.
6. Criss-Cross Buns: The criss-cross pattern of this style may make it look a lot more complicated than it is, but the result is worth the effort! After parting and sectioning the hair, secure each section with black rubber bands and twist them, and flat twist the sides. Cross the banded sections in the pattern that you prefer, criss-crossing them to give the style an elaborate look, and secure the buns.
7. Decorative Headband: To cover the top of your head and pull the twists away from your face, use a decorative headband.
8. Flat Twists: Spicing up your normal flat twists can be as simple as changing the part. This zig-zag part is subtle, but just enough to make a statement. And the best part is when you’re ready to take it out, you have a bomb twist out.
9. Half-Up Ponytail: A super easy style that almost any length of hair can achieve, is mini twists pulled up in the front into a bun and left down in a ponytail.
10. Head Wraps: Head wraps compliment curly hair in every way. It can function as a headband to keep those juicy twists out of your face. Secure long havana, passion or rope twists with a head wrap or scarf.
11. High Ponytail: Section the twists in the middle. Pull the back up into a high-ish ponytail. Secure all the twists into a bun. You can use a satin scrunchie for this. Then, wrap the front twists around in a way that it looks like a Cinnabon. Pin in place and voila.
12. Loose Twists: Loose twists keep all of the volume that you might miss while your hair is out.
13. Low Ponytail/Puff: Most naturals love a good low ponytail/puff moment. The flat-twists are a great way to get more wear out of the style, rather than the typical slicked back ponytail.
14. Mini Twists Styles: With mini twists, you can opt for a middle part or a side part, wear them in an ultra-cropped pixie or a flowy bob, add accessories, or keep it simple.
15. Pigtail Twists: When you’re short on time and fancy a sporty-but-cute look, you might want to try two simple pigtail twists.
16. Rolled Twists: The front is sectioned out and rolled forward. Then, the twists are pinned so they are secure.
17. Side-Swept Twists: Twists can easily be transformed into a sophisticated style fit for your next big formal event. By the time you’ve mastered this style in quarantine you’ll have weddings and black tie events lined up in your schedule. Swoop the twists on one side and secure them at the base of the head to get this look. Sculpt jumbo twists along the side of your head for a put-together look that’s office-ready.
18. Space Buns: These glossy twists pair amazingly with the ever-popular space bun style. This might be a good solution for naturals who are experiencing the “awkward” hair length phase and feel that their twists are just a little too short for comfort.
19. Twist-Braids: Here’s proof that you don’t have to choose between braids and twists, you can do both.This twist hairstyle takes a bit of braiding skill. Section out the front center and start braiding those twists back - like a cornrow. Alternatively, you can flat twist it. When you’re done, use hair clamps to decorate the braided twists and other surrounding twists. Smooth your edges with some edge control and be on your way.

Tips for Twisting Natural Curls

Before twisting your hair, below are a few tips to keep in mind:

• Start twisting on dry hair, not wet hair.
• Start the individual twists with a braid.
• Section your hair so that you have a middle part and a side part on each side of your head. Start the side parts in line with the center of your eyebrow on each side.
• Use a pomade-based braid and twist gel. This one by Aunt Jackie’s is my go-to product for doing smaller twists.
• Use a thick and heavy butter on the ends of your twists. This keeps them smooth and tangle-free.
• You will have some shed hair but if you were refreshing and retwisting some of the old twists that got frizzy, it shouldn’t be too much.

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