The medieval period, often romanticized in popular culture, frequently presents a simplified portrayal of women's hair styling. Contrary to the common image of women with their hair completely covered or adorned with only a simple metal circlet, the reality was far more diverse and nuanced. Medieval women's hairstyles reflected social status, marital status, and regional trends, showcasing a fascinating blend of practicality and aesthetics. This article delves into the intricate world of medieval hairstyles for women, exploring various styles, accessories, and the cultural significance of hair during this era.
In medieval society, a woman's hair was more than just a physical attribute; it was a symbol of her identity and status. The degree to which hair was displayed was often dictated by social norms and religious beliefs. Generally, the less hair that was visible, the better, especially for married women. Displaying hair was more usual for only unmarried, young women to have hair loose. Even upper classes and royalty restrained their hair in public.
Medieval women employed various techniques to manage and style their hair. Braiding was a prevalent method, offering both practicality and aesthetic appeal. Braids could be simple or intricate, incorporating ribbons or other embellishments. The crown braid, a timeless choice, involved parting the hair in the middle and braiding it into two thick braids on both sides, then wrapping each braid around the top of the head and securing it with hairpins.
Braided hairstyles seen on women in Western European figural art of the mid-to-late 14th century-particularly in French works, showcase charming and oddball creations. Hanging braids that frame the face and wrap to the back of the head were a popular style. Recreating the braids can be achieved by parting the hair down the middle and braiding each side. The braids can then be folded and pinned to the back of the head.
When looking at images of 14th Century Italian hairstyles a couple of styles are definitely more prevalent, hair that is braided or wrapped with ribbons or cloth and then wrapped around the head. These two images from the early 14th century show the both the braided and wrapped styles, I especially like the image on the right with the braids apparently first wrapped into a bun and then wrapped around the head. This style also has a veil of very sheer silk pinned into the braids that also wraps over the face. These two later 14th century images both show the hair wrapped around the head. The image on the right shows the braided style from before and the image on the right appears to be just the hair without wrapping or braiding.
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The challenges of styling hair without modern products were addressed through various means. Some women likely washed their hair infrequently to allow natural oils to develop, providing manageability. Others may have used hair gels made from natural ingredients, such as flax seed. Flax seed gel is incredibly easy and fast to make. The hair gel was a complete success. Both braids complete and holding together with nothing securing them aside from flax seed gel. The slipperiness and fly-away concerns were solved.
For women performing manual chores, keeping hair tied up and clean was essential for both hygiene and safety. Simple braids or buns were common choices, sometimes secured with a cloth or head covering.
Headwear played a significant role in medieval women's hairstyles, serving both practical and decorative purposes. Veils, fillets, and caps were common, with variations in style and adornment reflecting social status and regional customs.
The way of restraining a woman's hair was often through headpieces. A white fillet, often with a wavy or decorated edge was worn by many women together with either a chin band/barbette, or maybe a Birgitta cap under it. Narrower chinstraps were worn with a fillet and hanging hair.
Coifs, close-fitting caps that covered the hair, were practical for working women and could also be worn as a base for more elaborate headwear. The small white cap that is commonly referred to as a St. Birgitta’s Cap. While the cap is not common in Italian imagery it is seen occasionally on women that are sleeping or doing labor. This image show the death of Nabal and what I presume is his wife and daughter, indicating that the white cap today mostly referred to as the St. Birgitta cap, was worn also by unmarried women.
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Hairnets, also known as cauls, were another popular accessory, particularly for unmarried women. These nets could be simple or adorned with jewels and beads, adding a touch of elegance to the hairstyle. As the snood was worn alone, mesh cauls became sturdier and jewels were attached.
During the later medieval period, more elaborate hairstyles emerged, such as the "horns" and hennins. Horns involved arranging the hair into two cone-shaped structures on either side of the head, often supported by frames or padding. The hennin was a tall, cone-shaped hat that became fashionable among noblewomen. The side horns later ramshorn as it was worn by fashionable noble ladies.
Medieval hairstyles varied across different regions of Europe, reflecting local customs and influences. In Italy, for example, braided or wrapped hairstyles were common, often adorned with ribbons or cloth. In Northern and Western Europe, the St. Birgitta's cap was a more prevalent style.
To achieve elaborate hairstyles or add volume, some women resorted to using false hairpieces. These could be made of flax, wool, cotton, or silk and were often incorporated into braids or other styles. This image on the left appears to show a false hair piece that has been braided. There appears to be a black cap or head band under the braids and they also appear to have been wrapped in a very sheer fabric. This image puzzled me for a while until I came across the image on the right from the Allgauer Landesmuseum from Kempten Germany which shows a false braid made from a sheer fabric tubes stuffed with wool. This design makes much more sense than trying to evenly wrap sheer cloth around each of the three strands of hair needed for the braid and then braiding it and then hoping it will not be too stiff to wrap around the head.
The Church played a significant role in shaping attitudes towards women's hair. Modesty was emphasized, and women were often encouraged to cover their hair as a sign of humility and piety. However, interpretations of these guidelines varied, and many women found ways to express their individuality within the boundaries of social and religious norms.
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Medieval hairstyles continue to inspire modern trends, with many contemporary styles drawing inspiration from the elegance and versatility of historical looks. Braids, in particular, remain a popular choice, with variations such as crown braids, fishtail braids, and waterfall braids offering a touch of medieval charm.
Adapting historical hairstyles for curly hair can present unique challenges. Curly hair has more natural volume because of its texture. Since it's wider compared to how long it is, I often have to use the "short hair" versions of historical styles even though my hair is nearly waist-length. However, I also find I can do large hairstyles that need backcombing, teasing, or padding on straight hair without any of those. The tighter and springier your curls are, the more both of these will be true.
The two braids were still the foundation of the hairstyle, but arranged differently. Starting with the same center part, twist the front sections of your hair nearest your hairline. You can do either a flat twist, or a two-strand twist, and make them as small and tight, or as fluffed-out and voluminous as you want. When you reach the ear, stop twisting, and braid that entire section from the nape of your neck. You might find it helpful to tie off the twist if your hair is slippery.
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