The High Fade Comb Over: A Modern Guide to a Timeless Hairstyle

The comb over has undergone a significant transformation. Once relegated to a dated stereotype, it has re-emerged as a stylish and versatile option for men with varying hair densities and lengths. This article provides a comprehensive guide to achieving the perfect high fade comb over, covering everything from the initial cut to styling tips and variations.

Understanding the Fade

Before diving into the specifics of the comb over, it's essential to understand the fade haircut. A fade involves tapering the hair from extremely short, sometimes down to the skin (a skin fade), and seamlessly blending it into longer hair on the sides and top. This technique requires skill and precision from the barber.

It's important to distinguish between a fade and a taper. While both involve a change in hair length, a fade is shorter and ends when it reaches the skin, whereas a taper involves a more gradual change in length.

The Comb Over Part

The comb-over part refers to the longer hair on top styled with a sharp side-parting and a clearly defined line. This isn't about awkwardly concealing a bald spot, but about a deliberate and stylish choice.

The Popularity of Fades

The resurgence of barbering as a skilled trade has contributed to the popularity of fades. Barbers are showcasing their expertise in executing flawless fades, making them a sought-after style. Social media platforms like YouTube and Instagram are filled with tutorials and inspiration, further fueling the trend.

Read also: Guide to Styling Thick Hair

Is a Fade Comb Over Right for You?

The fade is generally a flattering cut that can make the head and face appear less round. However, it's important to consider your hair thickness and face shape. Combing over emphasizes the hairline, so those with thinning hair should proceed with caution. If you have a long or thin face, a low fade may be a better option.

Achieving the High Fade Comb Over: A Step-by-Step Guide

The Haircut

1. Consult your barber: The most crucial step is to visit a barber who understands how the cut and fade combo will work with your face shape. A skilled stylist will create a flattering silhouette that grows out well.
2. Clippers are key: Fades are typically done with hair clippers. Ask for a short and tight cut, specifying a zero blade length to start. The barber will then fade the hair into your desired style.
3. High vs. Low Fade: A high fade, where the fade happens higher up the head, can elongate a round face. A low fade maintains length and volume on the sides.
4. Avoid Fading Too High: Never fade above the occipital bone (the lump in the back of your head) to avoid an unflattering triangular shape.

Styling the Comb Over

1. Find Your Natural Parting Line: When your hair is damp, but not soaking wet, it will be easier to find your hair’s natural parting line. Most people have a single, natural part that runs from back to front on top of their head, usually to the right or left of center. Some people have two parts, on both the left and right sides. To the left or right side of the upper back of your head, you should find your hair patterned in a swirled shape, this is the starting point of your part in the back. If your hair has two parting lines, you’ll have two cowlicks in the back as well. As you drag your fingers through your hair from back to front along the parting line, the hairs will naturally fall to one side or the other of the part. Your part will still look a bit jagged at this point. If you’re going for a loose comb over, you’ll want it to keep this less-defined appearance. If your part still isn’t as sharp and well-defined as you’d like, talk to your barber about styling options.
2. Product Application:
   • Neat Comb Over: Massage your preferred pomade through your damp hair. Oil-based pomades usually provide a stronger and longer hold, but water-based pomades are gentler on your hair and much easier to wash out. Hold the comb so that the teeth are parallel to and right above the ill-defined part line you’ve created with your fingers. Starting at the swirl in the back, drag the comb forward through your hair.
   • Loose Comb Over: Work a pea- to dime-sized amount of hair wax into your hair. Unlike pomades, which provide a tighter hold and more sheen, hair waxes offer a more subtle hold and a more natural look. Use trial-and-error to figure out the ideal amount of hair wax for you. If it doesn’t hold the way you’d like or as long as you want, use a bit more. After blow-drying and applying wax to your hair, you may need to use your fingers to create a loosely-defined parting line again. As before, drag them from your cowlick to your forehead to direct your hair to either side of the part.
3. Combing and Styling:
   • Short Side: On the short side of your part (the side that doesn’t cross over the top of your head), comb the hair primarily straight down and away from the parting line. This sleeker style tends to look better if you have an oval or square face shape. Work with a comb or brush to guide the hair mainly downward on the short side.
   • Long Side: On the long side, use a brush to sweep the hair to the side and back. Adding volume to your neat comb over can be a good choice if you have a diamond shaped face, since it can help balance out your facial features. On the long side of your part-the side that crosses over the top of your head-sweep the hair back at an angle to provide some extra lift.
4. Adding Volume: Blow-dry your hair lightly to give it some extra volume. After your shower and towel-dry, use a blow dryer on a low setting to provide a bit more lift and body to your hair. Angle the blow dryer upward towards your hair and work it from front to back through your hair to add volume. Even though it takes at least as much effort to achieve, you want a loose comb over to look a bit less styled and managed than a neat comb over.

Variations on the Theme

Side Part Fade

The side part is a timeless style that can be created with any hair length, as long as you maintain the part. Ask for the particular guard length you want on the top of the back and sides, and to maintain length on the side where your parting is - this will help emphasise the clean look of the parting.

Slick Back Parted Fade

This variation offers guaranteed handsome points. You're asking for a cut almost identical to the side part but with more length on the top. Then it’s all in the styling. The slick back is traditionally completed with a high-shine product such as a pomade to help bring it closer to the scalp, ensuring it can be properly slicked. Put the product into towel dry/damp hair, then blow dry it with a Denman brush to ensure there’s plenty of volume. This style is best for people with a stronger hairline and hair that is not thinning out.

Buzz Cut Parting

This is a cheat’s version of a comb-over, in that it’s not a parting per se. But it allows people with thinner hair to get in on the divided-do action. Ask for the top of your hair to be taken down to a grade two or three. Then you need to decide on the parting side with absolute certainty, because it can’t be undone. Due to the short length there is very little to style, you’ll only ever have to towel dry or you can use the hairdryer to save time. This style can be used by anyone.

The Bald Comb Over: Proceed with Caution

While the modern comb over is a stylish choice, the classic bald comb over (attempting to hide a bald spot with long strands of hair) is generally discouraged. In most cases, it only draws more attention to the thinning area.

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If you've decided that the bald comb over is the look for you, proceed with caution. Grow the hair to the inside of your part until it's long enough to span your bald spot. If you have a large bald spot on top that reaches to your natural part, you may need to force the part further down the side of your head. Work closely with a barber who has experience with bald comb overs.

After showering and defining your part, take a fine-toothed comb to the long hair to the inside of your part. Unlike other comb overs, where you can sweep the hair both across and slightly back, you pretty much have to go straight across with a bald comb over. While you can try gels, pomades, or other hair products, hairspray is the traditional hair product of choice for the bald comb over. Even with a super-hold hairspray, wind is the enemy of a bald comb over. Consider other bald hairstyle options first. A “modern” comb over, which more subtly guides slightly-longer hair on top over spots where your hair is thinning. If you’ve decided that the bald comb over is the look for you, go for it!

Read also: Choosing the Best Afro Hairstyle

tags: #mens #high #fade #comb #over #guide

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