Mastering the Art of the Normal Haircut: A Comprehensive Guide

Cutting men’s hair at home can be a valuable skill, easily mastered with attention and patience. This article provides a comprehensive guide to confidently prepping and cutting men’s hair, potentially saving you trips to the salon.

Before You Begin: Consultation and Preparation

Before commencing the haircut, it's vital to understand the desired outcome. Grooming expert Craig Whitely suggests starting at the perimeter of the hair - the back and sides - and working your way up. Asking key questions is essential to avoid misunderstandings and achieve the desired look.

• Desired Length: How short does he want his hair?
• Uniformity: How uniformly does he want it cut?
• Styling Plans: How does he plan to style it?

Allocate around 1-2 hours of uninterrupted time for the haircut. Rushing can lead to mistakes, especially for beginners.

Setting Up Your Workspace

• Comfortable Seating: Seat him in a sturdy chair, ensuring you can reach his head without straining.
• Cleanliness: Set up your work area on a surface that is easy to clean afterward.

Preparing the Hair

• Shampoo: Shampoo the hair before starting. A clean base makes cutting easier, revealing the hair's natural fall, free from oils and product buildup. Use the L'Oréal Paris EverPure Moisture Shampoo and follow up with the L'Oréal Paris EverPure Moisture Conditioner, which replenishes hair with moisture and is even safe for color-treated tresses.
• Detangle: Detangle the hair by combing through it. This provides a clear understanding of where cuts are needed.

Essential Tools

• Sharp Cutting Scissors: Professional cutting scissors are essential for achieving clean, precise cuts.
• Electric Clippers: Electric clippers with various blade-guard attachments are necessary for trimming the back and sides, or for achieving a uniform buzz cut.
• Precision Trimmer: Use a precision trimmer to clean up any uneven hairs that stand out. Remember to take it slowly and don’t get trimmer happy.
• Cutting Comb: A cutting comb is used to pull and hold your length steady and cut it straight across with your cutting shears.
• Hair Clips: Hair clips are useful for sectioning and keeping hair out of the way.
• Spray Bottle: A spray bottle is needed to lightly dampen the hair, aiding in cutting and styling.
• Towels: Towel his hair and neck dry to dust off any hair clippings.
• Mirror: Use your mirror so that you can see the results in real-time and make adjustments as you need them.
• Guards: I used a #1 and #2. Most men use a #2 on their sides, but you can use any size that you want, as long as you choose one that you want your sides to be, and then one guard lower to blend with.

The Haircutting Process: Step-by-Step

1. Sectioning the Hair

Divide the hair into seven sections for a systematic approach:

• Top
• Left Side
• Right Side
• Back
• Left Sideburn Area
• Right Sideburn Area
• Fringe

2. Trimming the Back and Sides with Clippers

• Choose the Right Guard: Electric clippers come with blade-guard attachments that determine the length of the hair that gets cut. The longer the clipper attachment, the less hair gets cut. I always start with the largest clip possible, and runs it through his hair in sections, starting on the sides, then moving to the back. You can adjust the size of the clippers based on your preferred cut. Just keep in mind that the lower the clipper guard size, the shorter your hair will be.
• Proper Grip: Maintain a strong, steady, and comfortable grip on the clippers.
• Cutting Technique: Hold the clippers against the scalp, and run them through the hair from the nape of the neck to about halfway up the head. Round the clippers up and out to finish the cut. Make strokes going straight up, don’t round the head.
• Working Around the Head: Slowly work around the head, carefully cutting around the ears.
• Lining Up the Back: To line up the back of the cut, maintain the existing hairline and remove any stray hairs outside of the line. Turn the clippers upside-down, press the blades perpendicular to the head, and cut downwards.
• Lining Up the Sides: Use your clippers to cut the hair up and off of his ears, lining up the sides of the hair.

3. Trimming the Top Hair with Scissors

• Dampen the Hair: Use a spray bottle to lightly spritz the uncut hair at the top of his head.
• Parting: Comb the hair forward and part a line down the center of his head, separating the right and left sides.
• Cutting Technique: Comb up a half-inch section of hair, beginning at the back and working forward along the parted line. Pinch the hair between your index and middle finger, and slide your fingers up or down to the length you want. Leave the hair below your fingers on his head, and trim the hair above your fingers away. Cut perpendicular to the hair’s direction for a clean cut. Take it little by little, it’s easier to cut more if you want it shorter than to reverse it if you cut too much. Remember, if your hair is wet, the length will look very different once it dries down.
• Using a Guide: When cutting a new section of hair, always take a part of the just-cut section between your fingers to use it as a guide length. Using the prior cut as your guide, make another part to either the right or left of your original one. Use the trimmed section as a guide, and cut any hairs that stick up past that length with your scissors.

4. Cutting the Front According to Desired Length

Hold the hair up at the very front and ask how much they want off. Often people like their hair about an Inch and a half to two inches long on top, but this can differ from person to person. In the photo, I'm taking off about 1/4 of an inch. Cut off the desired length by holding the hair in one hand between your fingers (as shown) and using your shears in the other hand, cut above your fingers. You have created your "guide".

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5. Cut Your Guide Across the Head

Side Note: A "guide" is the desired length of the haircut. By cutting the hair from the side of your client (as shown), you are now bringing your guide throughout the whole head. This is setting you up for when you move back behind your client, you can make sure the length is the same all over. Now that your have your guide, stand at the side of your client and hold the hair as shown. You will notice the hair in the front is shorter because your just cut it. Match your fingers up to where you can cut the hair in your fingers to the same length as the front. Do this and then do it again, until there is a line of the desired length (shorter hair) going down the middle of the head.

6. Trimming the Bangs

• Dampen the Bangs: Ensure the bangs are damp, considering drying shrinkage.
• Cutting Technique: When you reach the front of his head, comb his bangs down his forehead. Holding the scissors vertically with the tips pointing up, make little snips using the points of the scissors at his desired length.

7. Blending and Fading

• Shear-Over-Comb Technique: Using the fine-tooth end of your comb, comb upward at the point where the clipper cut meets the scissor cut. Use your scissors to trim the hair that pokes out of the comb, blending, or fading, the harsh line that separates the clipper cut from the scissor cut.

8. Trimming the Neck and Sideburns

• Clippers without Attachment: Trim the neck and hair around his ears using the clippers without an attachment.
• Sideburns: Trim his sideburns, stepping back occasionally to look at him head-on to make sure they’re even. Start at the top and work the clippers downward, so you don’t clip too high.
• Beard (Optional): If he asks you to trim his beard, use the clippers to shave or clean up the hair below his sideburns. Ask him how short he'd like it, and choose a clipper attachment accordingly.

9. Final Touches

• Review: After trimming the entire head, look over his hair to ensure you haven't missed any spots. Touch up rough areas with scissors or clippers, if necessary.
• Clean Up: Towel his hair and neck dry to dust off any hair clippings. Sweep the floor to dispose of loose hair clippings.

Additional Tips and Considerations

Communication is Key

When it comes to getting the perfect haircut or shave, communication is key. Whether you’re a regular at the barber shop or this is your first time, knowing what to ask for is essential.

Understanding Hair Type and Face Shape

Before deciding on a haircut, it’s important to know your hair type. Do you have thick hair or thin hair? Is it straight, wavy, or curly? Next, consider your face shape. Oval, square, round, heart, diamond, or rectangular - each face shape has haircuts that flatter it the most.

Lifestyle and Maintenance

Consider your daily routine, work environment, and personal style. Are you looking for a low-maintenance cut or are you okay with spending time on styling?

Barber Shop Terminology

Familiarize yourself with common barber shop terms:

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• Taper vs. Fade: A taper gradually changes your hair length from the top of the head down to the nape, with the hair at the neck’s bottom being the shortest.
• Clippers vs. Scissors: Clippers tend to provide a more uniform, shorter cut, while scissors can give a more textured, natural look.
• Undercut: An undercut involves short sides and a longer hair top.

Providing Clear Instructions

Instead of saying “short,” give a clear indication of the desired length. Bring a photo of the hair cut or style you want.

Maintaining the Haircut

Ask your barber how to maintain your new haircut. Often overlooked, the back of your head is as important as the front.

Example Requests

• For a short, classic style: “I would like a short back and sides with a little length on top, tapered at the back and sides with a #2 clipper guard.
• For a modern look: “I want an undercut with a fade on the sides.
• For medium-length hair: “I’d like a layered cut with scissors only.
• For a low-maintenance cut: “Can you give me a crew cut?
• For a trendy style: “I’d like a pompadour with a mid-fade on the sides.
• For a long hairstyle: “I want to maintain my length but remove some weight.

Barber Etiquette

Tipping your barber is good etiquette, a gesture of appreciation, and a way to maintain a positive relationship with your stylist.

Factors Influencing Tip Amount

• Service Quality: The quality of the haircut carries the most weight. Tip 20%-25% for excellent service, 15%-18% for adequate service.
• Frequency of Visits: Tip less per visit if you visit frequently.
• Complexity of Cut: Tip more for new or complex cuts.
• Additional Services: Tip extra for beard trims, shaves, or waxing.
• Location: Tipping customs may vary based on location.
• Relationship: Tip more if you have a long-standing relationship with your barber.
• Financial Situation: Adjust your tip based on your budget.

Methods of Tipping

Cash is preferred. If you don't have cash, ask if they accept tips via apps like Venmo or CashApp.

Holiday Tipping

During the holiday season, it’s customary to tip 100% of the service cost.

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Non-Monetary Tips

Avoid tipping with gifts unless you are sure your barber can accept it and will appreciate it.

Tipping the Owner

It is appropriate to tip salon owners, as their rates are typically higher due to more training and experience.

Tipping Apprentices

If the apprentice gets tipped out, add a few extra bucks to your overall tip. If they do not get tipped out, it's acceptable to give them a tip, especially if they provided a service like shampooing or blow drying your hair.

Specific Services

• Haircut: Tip 15%-20% for a satisfactory haircut.
• Children's Haircut: Tip generously due to the extra patience required.
• Beard Trim: Tip according to the complexity of the trim.
• Shave: Follow the standard 20% rule.
• Waxing: Tip 15%-20% for small waxing services.
• Special Occasion Up-dos: Tip generously for time-consuming and skilled services.

tags: #normal #haircut #tips

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