The Benefits of Hair Oiling: An Ancient Practice for Modern Hair Care

Hair oiling, an age-old practice with roots in Ayurvedic medicine and Indian tradition, is gaining popularity as a method to enhance hair health and appearance. This involves applying oil to the hair and massaging it into the scalp. It's believed to increase moisture, luster, and shine, and may even reduce hair loss. While hair oiling is a cultural tradition for many South Asian women, there's a growing body of science supporting its benefits.

Historical and Cultural Significance

The practice of hair oiling has been used in India for centuries and is recommended in Ayurvedic medicine. Growing up in India, many recall their Sunday evenings spent putting oil in their hair. It was a sweet, attentive way to show care. When they moved out of their parents’ home to go to college, this became a weekly ritual. While many South Asian women oiled their hair as a cultural tradition, there’s a fair amount of science behind the practice.

How Hair Oiling Works

Hair oils play an important role in protecting hair from regular wear and tear. Oiling hair regularly reduces hygral fatigue, or the swelling and drying of hair. Oils protect the follicle from surfactants by filling the gap between cuticle cells. Massaging the oil into the scalp increases blood circulation, which may improve hair growth. Applying oil to the scalp may also prevent dandruff.

Step-by-Step Guide to Hair Oiling

Here's a simple guide to incorporating hair oiling into your routine:

1. Apply oil on your scalp and massage with fingertips using a circular motion.
2. Apply the oil left on your palms to your hair.
3. Cover with a towel or shower cap and leave on overnight.
4. The next day, shampoo hair while dry.
5. Rinse thoroughly.
6. Condition as normal. You can also use coconut oil as a conditioner.

Benefits of Hair Oiling

Hair oiling offers a multitude of benefits, making it a worthwhile addition to your hair care regimen.

Read also: Explore Hair Thickening Options

• Increased Moisture, Luster, and Shine: Hair oiling is the practice of pouring oil onto hair and massaging it into the scalp to increase moisture, luster, and shine. Hair oiling may soften the hair and provide vitamins and minerals that get stripped from frequent washing. A 2015 study found that oils can help revive hair with a much-needed moisture boost.
• Protection from Damage: Regular oiling may prevent hair from the damage caused by pollution and chemicals present in shampoo.
• Reduced Hygral Fatigue: Oils protect the follicle from surfactants by filling the gap between cuticle cells.
• Scalp Health: “Oil helps in scalp health. When you gently massage the scalp it helps in exfoliation and sometimes that helps in reducing hair fall,” says Dr. Khushboo Garodia.
• Strengthened Hair Shaft: According to Garodia, oil helps strengthen the hair shaft, especially in case of frizzy and dry hair. It’s most beneficial when the oil is left in the hair overnight.
• Improved Appearance of Split Ends: Add some natural oils to the ends of your hair to help visually clean them up, while adding a bit of moisture in the process.
• May Protect Your Hair from the Sun: Research suggests that almond oil’s moisturizing properties may create a protective barrier against the sun’s UV rays.

The Science Behind Hair Oiling

Garodia explains that oils have fatty acids that help replace lipids in the hair. These are lost due to chemical treatments, styling, or even pollution. “Lipids play a very important role in making the hair look and feel healthy. They help maintain the shine and gloss of hair,” she says.

Ayurvedic Perspective

According to Ayurveda, the texture and health of hair is determined by the doshas. These are believed to be bioenergy or life forces that make up the constitution of the body. They are known as vata (wind), pitta (fire), and kapha (water and earth). “If vata is high, the hair will be thin, frizzy, and dry and will need regular oiling,” says Ayurveda health coach Dr. Varalakshmi Yanamandra. Ayurvedic practices also suggest that people with high pitta have a mix of oily and dry hair. They may also be more prone to premature graying and alopecia. Those with high kapha have oily, thick, long, and curly hair.

Choosing the Right Oil for Your Hair Type

What oil you use will depend on your hair needs. “Different kinds of oils have different vitamins… and with direct application of these oils, the shaft of the hair gets strengthened,” says Garodia. Picking the right kind of oil depends largely on these factors.

Here’s a list of oils suggested by experts:

• Coconut Oil: Virgin coconut oil is the most commonly used hair oil, especially in South Asia. Its principal fatty acid is lauric acid. It has a high affinity for hair protein which means it bonds to protein and can easily penetrate inside the hair shaft. This makes it one of the best oils to reduce protein loss from both damaged and undamaged hair. Having low molecular weight, the oil is light and can easily penetrate the hair shaft. Coconut oil can deep condition, provide natural protection, and is generally a good choice for most hair types. A recent 2021 study found that coconut oil in particular has a positive effect on the scalp. Another study from 2021 found that coconut oil strengthens hair fibers. Coconut oil may work better for extremely dry hair because of its thick, moisturizing consistency.
• Sesame Oil: Ideal for vata type hair, sesame oil reduces frizziness and may also prevent split ends. “It’s high in vitamin B1, calcium, copper, phosphorus, iron, magnesium, manganese, and zinc,” says Garodia. “Sesame oil also provides deep conditioning to the scalp and smooths the hair shaft. Its antibacterial and antifungal qualities may help in preventing dandruff.” Sesame oil contains Palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, gandoleic acid, behenic acid, stearic acid, and arachidic acid. Lignans present in sesame oil has anti-inflammatory properties. Sesamin has been found to have remarkable antibacterial activity. It moisturizes the hair follicle and prevents dryness. It contains amino acids, cysteine which acts as antioxidant. Sesame oil is resistant to oxidative deterioration because of the presence of endogenous antioxidants such as sesamolinol, sesaminol. It forms a protective coat thereby preventing damage induced by UV.
• Almond Oil: Almond oil is lighter weight than sesame oil, but slightly thicker than coconut. It’s a good oil for pitta types. Garodia notes that almond oil contains vitamins B, K, and E. Vitamin E can reduce oxidative stress. One study showed a 34.5 percent increase in hair growth in those who supplemented orally with vitamin E for 8 months, though it’s important to note that results may be very different when applied directly to the hair. Vitamin B7 is also known as biotin. It may also help support hair growth, though research is limited, especially when it comes to topical application. Almond oil soothes and moisturizes the scalp.
• Jaborandi Oil: Jaborandi is an herbal plant from the tropical forests of South America used extensively in shampoos and gels. Garodia notes that jaborandi is more therapeutic than most oils and may help with hair growth, nourishing a dry scalp, and preventing premature graying. It also moisturizes hair and may prevent split ends and dandruff.
• Argan Oil: Argan oil is commonly known as Moroccan oil. Garodia points out that it’s high in vitamin A, C, E, antioxidants, and omega-3 fatty acids. “It acts as a natural conditioner and helps strengthen the hair,” she says. Moroccan argan oil moisturizes, nourishes, and provides antioxidants to hair.
• Moringa Oil: Moringa oil works well for dry hair, says Garodia. It contains oleic acid, which makes it a good moisturizer for hair. Garodia recommends using Moringa oil with a carrier oil such as almond oil.
• Bhringraj or Amla Oil: Apart from the oils mentioned above, Varalakshmi also suggests using bhringraj oil or amla oil for pitta hair type. Both the oils have a cooling effect and help balance the pitta dosha. Amla oil is fungicidal to M. canis, M. gypseum, Trichophyton rubrum at 0.5% concentration. Amla oil has shown potent antibacterial activity against E. coli, Klebsiella pneumonia, Klebsiella ozaenae, Proteus mirabalis, P.
• Olive Oil: Olive oil is protective against UVB due to the presence of extra virgin olive oil. Olive oil has a definite inhibitory influence on the ability of the fungus Microsporum gypseum and Trichophyton vanbreuseghemii to penetrate the hair. A mixture of honey, olive oil, and beeswax mixture (1:1:1) has demonstrated significant improvement in the symptoms such as redness, scaling, thickening, and pruritis in psoriasis.
• Mustard Oil: Mustard oil significantly inhibits the penetration of T. It has a broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity and has shown activity against S. aureus, E. coli, and C. albicans. Diosgenin, has oestrogenic activity. Therefore, more testosterone is metabolized to oestradiol, reducing the formation of DHT which damages the hair root. Flavonoids are important for increasing blood cells and help in increasing the blood circulate in scalp.

Hot Oil Treatments

When it comes to protecting and nourishing dry, brittle hair, hot oil treatments are a popular option. Made from plant-based oils, like olive, almond, and coconut, hot oil treatments work by sealing the hair cuticle. This can help to strengthen and protect your hair.

Read also: Benefits of Keratin Treatments

Benefits of Hot Oil Treatments

Other potential benefits of hot oil treatments include:

• Increased hair strength
• Reduced dryness of both the scalp and hair
• Help with dandruff relief
• Reduced frizz
• Fewer split ends
• Increased blood flow in the scalp, which may help promote healthier hair

How to Do a Hot Oil Treatment at Home

1. Wash your hair. Hot oil tends to work best on clean hair. This allows the oil to deeply penetrate the hair cuticle.
2. Microwave 3 to 6 tablespoons of the oil in a microwave-safe bowl for 10 seconds.
3. Before applying the oil to your damp hair and scalp, test a small amount of the oil on your wrist to make sure it’s not too hot.
4. To protect your clothing, place a towel over your shoulders. If you prefer, you can apply the oil in the shower.
5. Run a brush through your hair to get rid of any knots.
6. Apply the oil evenly throughout your hair and massage it into your scalp.
7. Cover your head with a shower cap and wait up to 20 minutes.
8. After 20 minutes, completely rinse out the oil from your hair, and follow up with your normal conditioner.

As with other types of hair treatments, such as hair masks, you can use hot oil in your hair once a week. If your hair is very dry, you may want to use this treatment every few days.

Safety Precautions for Hot Oil Treatments

Although hot oil treatments use plant-based ingredients, that doesn’t mean they’re safe for everyone. It’s still possible to have an adverse reaction to the oil, especially if you have sensitive skin. To reduce the risk of a reaction, look for oils that aren’t combined with synthetic ingredients, and are 100 percent natural. It’s important to pay careful attention to the temperature of the oil. Because the oil usually needs to be heated, you risk burning yourself if you don’t let the oil cool down enough before applying it to your hair and scalp. To test the temperature, apply a small amount of the oil to your wrist before using it.

Essential Oils for Hair Care

Essential oils are distilled from the plant itself. They have the signature scent of the plant they came from. And they’re highly concentrated. Carrier oils (such as coconut oil, jojoba oil, almond oil, and olive oil) also come from plants, but they have a more neutral smell. And they’re not necessarily distilled down like essential oils are.

Here are the benefits of some essential and carrier oils:

Read also: Cysteine vs. Keratin for Hair

• Almond oil: soothes and moisturizes the scalp.
• Cedarwood oil: stimulates the scalp and promotes hair growth.
• Chamomile oil: adds shine and softness to hair, and soothes the scalp.
• Clary sage oil: promotes hair growth and stimulates the scalp.
• Coconut oil: softens hair and increases shine.
• Geranium oil: strengthens hair.
• Jojoba oil: moisturizes the hair, adds nutrients, and stimulates the scalp.
• Lavender oil: deep conditions the hair, keeps it shiny, and helps control dandruff.
• Moroccan argan oil: moisturizes, nourishes, and provides antioxidants to hair.
• Rosemary oil: stimulates the roots, improves hair growth, and increases circulation in the scalp.
• Sandalwood oil: helps with dry ends, and adds fragrance to the hair.

You only need a few drops of an essential oil. You can mix one or more types in a shampoo or conditioner. Or mix the drops into 2 ounces of a carrier oil.

Frequency of Oiling

Ayurveda recommends oiling hair almost every day as part of dinacharya, or a daily routine, though this may not be realistic for everyone. Varalakshmi suggests oiling at least twice a week, ideally a night before you plan to wash your hair. If leaving oil on overnight isn’t possible, you can oil your hair an hour before you bathe and wrap your head with a hot towel. This will extract some nutrition from the oil in a short time frame, says Garodia.

Considerations and Precautions

Keep in mind, when using oil on your scalp, it may be worth testing to be sure you don’t have an allergy. Do a patch test before using oil in your hair for a full treatment.

• Allergies: If you're allergic to plants such as ragweed, test the oil on a small area of your skin or scalp to see if you have a reaction.
• Hair Type: “Certain hair types can benefit from oiling more than others,” says Dr. Khetarpal. “People with dry, coarse tightly curled hair can benefit from oiling, while others with fine, straight hair may find oiling weighs their hair down too much. Those who are prone to dandruff should avoid all types of oils.”
• Scalp Conditions: Dr. Khetarpal, advise against putting oil directly on your scalp. It turns out, hair oiling could actually put you at higher risk for seborrheic dermatitis - essentially, dandruff. Overall, it’s best to steer clear of oiling your scalp.

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