Ski Wax Table Guide: Tune Like a Pro at Home

Maintaining your skis and snowboards properly can significantly enhance your performance on the slopes and extend the life of your equipment. Taking your board or skis to the shop can get expensive, especially with repeated trips. This guide provides comprehensive information on ski waxing tables, waxing profiles, and essential maintenance tips, enabling you to tune your gear like a pro right from your home. We want to provide the best tools available to help you maintain your gear the proper way. We think tuning and waxing is fun, fulfilling and ultimately cost saving!

Introduction to Waxing Tables and Profiles

A waxing table provides a stable and convenient surface for waxing skis and snowboards. We offer various tables and profiles suitable for all waxing needs, from our top model T77-3 Professional World Cup Table to more economical alternatives. These products allow you to tune like a pro right from your home.

A waxing profile is used for cross-country skis and serves as a stabilizing fixture to secure the ski during waxing.

Types of Waxing Profiles

There are various types of waxing profiles available:

• Some can be mounted on independent legs, offering flexibility and portability for on-the-go waxing.
• Other profiles are designed to be attached to a waxing table or a bench, providing a more stable and permanent setup.
• Additionally, there are profiles specifically designed to slide into our specialized waxing tables for a seamless integration.

The Benefits of Using a Waxing Table

We recommend using a waxing table for the most practical and efficient waxing experience. Waxing tables offer the added convenience of space to place tools and waxing irons while working, ensuring everything you need is within easy reach. You can't tune 'em if they won't hold still. Restrain those pesky boards with quality snowboard and ski tuning vises, tables, and profiles from Tognar. We feature various Swix waxing tables, ski and snowboard vises, brake retainers and Nordic profiles.

Read also: Unlock Natural Beauty Secrets

Essential Components for a Waxing Setup

Ski and Snowboard Vises

Have a pair of skis too wide for your current vise? Quality ski and snowboard vises are essential for holding your equipment securely during tuning. Replacement center piece for profit vise set.

Brake Retainers

Brake retainers keep the brakes out of the way while you work on your skis.

Replacement Parts

Genuine replacement foot for Swix T75W and T76 (with round legs) waxing tables. Replaces the single adjustable foot on the T75W/T76 table. Genuine replacement foot for Swix T76 and T76-2 waxing tables. Keep your waxing table in top condition with genuine replacement parts, such as:

• Replacement feet for Swix T75W and T76 waxing tables
• Replacement clamps for FK/SKS ski vises: Replacement clamp for FK/SKS ski vise. The vise ships with there of these clamps, one for each tip and tail support and one for the center piece.
• Replacement pin receptors for FK/SKS Profi Ski Vise: Replacement pin receptor for FK/SKS Profi Ski Vise. This is the piece that is attached to the FK/SKS Boot Dummy which engages with the pin of the central vice piece.
• Replacement rubber caps for Swix T75 Waxing tables: Genuine replacement rubber cap for Swix T75 Waxing table. This is the small rubber cap that fits over the end of the legs on the Swix T75 or T75W waxing tables that do not have the articulating foot.

Alpine Touring Binding Vises

Arguably the best ski vise ever made. Genuine replacement rubber cap for Swix T75 Waxing table. This is the small rubber cap that fits over the end of the legs on the Swix T75 or T75W waxing tables that do not have the articulating foot. At long last a ski vise designed specifically for alpine touring bindings! Rather than clamping the sidewall of the ski this vise utilizes the binding's tech toe to retain the ski. For alpine touring bindings, use a specialized vise that utilizes the binding's tech toe to retain the ski, rather than clamping the sidewall.

Waxing for Different Snow Conditions and Preferences

Understanding Snow Types and Temperatures

Different snow types, temperatures, humidity, and contamination factors, including artificial and salted snow, crucially impact wax selection and ski performance. Chapter 3: Factors influencing ski waxing: Snow types and temperatures

Fluoro-Free Waxes

The future is fluoro-free, and the future is now. All official FIS and IBU races are fluoro-free and the rules are simple: You are not allowed to race with fluoros anymore. To be confident that your skis comply with the new regulations, some things should be taken into consideration before you cross the starting gate. Chapter 2: How to become fluoro-free Delve into our commitment to a sustainable future with our transition to fluoro-free waxes, aligning with international environmental standards. Learn about our innovative collaborations in research and development, and our decisive steps to phase out fluorinated waxes, reinforcing our dedication to environmental responsibility.Chapter 1: The shift to our fluoro-free waxes

Pro Series Waxes

The Pro system is a range of waxes for different snow conditions. With specific products for various snow conditions and temperatures, this innovative system includes powders, liquids, and hard waxes, each designed for optimal performance and ease of application.Chapter 11: "The ultimate guide to our Pro series

Liquid Glide Waxes

Our fluoro-free liquid gliders are of such high quality that they were already recommended as a top layer during the World Ski World Championships in 2021. Chapter 15: Easy application of liquid glide waxes

Kick Wax Techniques

Master the art of kick waxing for competitions and everyday skiing with this guide. Learn to balance kick and glide for optimal performance, and discover the truth behind common waxing myths for both professional and recreational skiing.Chapter 16: Kick wax techniques for the perfect result

Preparing New Skis

If you have a pair of brand new skis, or if you had your skis stone ground (either at Caldwell or elsewhere), you will need to prepare the skis for use. If you want to skip these steps, you can pay for "Hotbox (aka Heatbox)" and / or "Race Hardening" services from either Caldwell or Bikeway Source. For classic skis, you should wax through the kick zone during this preparation phase.

Step 1: Skis That Have NOT Been Heatboxed

If you had your skis heatboxed, you can skip this step.

1. Scrape off any glide wax on the ski.
2. Wipe ski with paper towel or rag.
3. Brush out skis tip to tail using copper or steel brush (5 strokes). If you are using a brand new brush, brush about 20 strokes on a pair of rock skis prior to using on good skis.
4. Iron in the warmest wax you have - Swix PS8 or 10, Toko NF Yellow, Star NF Warm, Rode R50. (Remember: Always set iron temp to the specific wax.)
5. Let wax cool (20 minutes or until cool to touch) then scrape.
6. Brush with steel or copper (5-10 passes) and then soft nylon brush. (For metal brushes, only brush in one direction; mark top of brush top with arrow)
7. Repeat steps 2 - 5 once or twice more, for a total of 2-3 layers warm wax. Then, move to Step 2.

Step 2: Skis That Have NOT Been "Race Hardened"

If you had your skis heatboxed but not race hardened, start here. Or, if you've completed Step 1.

1. Iron in a cold wax - Swix PS6, Toko NF Blue, Star NF Cold, Rode R20 - being careful not to overheat the ski. When in doubt, move iron more quickly! Never stop a hot iron on top of the ski, and feel for it “grabbing” to know when you are moving too slowly. Pace vs heat is key.
2. Allow the ski to cool. Then, scrape and brush, as in Step 1, above. Can add horsehair brush before metal and nylon.
3. Repeat steps 1-2 once or twice more, for a total of 2-3 layers cold wax.

Waxing Techniques for Race and Training Skis

Race Ski Waxing

Race skis should ideally be waxed EVERY time you ski on them, or every other time at a minimum. The best habit is to apply glide wax after the training session, and then scrape it off when you plan to train on the skis again. This way, your race skis are never sitting without wax on them for extended periods of time.

Training Ski Waxing

Training skis should be cleaned and waxed at least weekly to maintain base. If skiing on ice or dirty snow, you might wax them more often, but they do not need wax after every ski.

Detailed Waxing Procedure

1. Race Skis should be cleaned and waxed within 1-2 days MAX after each use (including practice).
2. Remove any dirt or dust with a glide wax cleaner (fluoro-free) or a moist paper towel (especially after skiing on LJM snow!)
3. If using a glide wax cleaner, scrub cleaner with dedicated cleaning brush (stiff nylon), while still wet. Allow cleaner to dry completely.
4. Brush out with 5-10 strokes of copper or steel brush.
5. Iron on first layer of wax from the wax call. Use the correct iron temperature specific to the wax. For race weekends, the wax call will be sent out 3-4 days before race.
6. Allow the ski to cool completely then scrape with plastic scraper. Note scraping tips, but in addition, careful not to unintentionally scratch the bottoms or edge. (you will see - it happens) It helps to use your free fingers to feel the edge of the ski.
7. Brush in order of largest to smallest bristles. This usually means horsehair first, then fine steel or copper, and then a soft nylon brush.
8. If second layer of wax from wax call is a powder, start by watching this video about applying powder -- the video is about applying VF4, but the application of NEXT powder is done in the same way (see other videos below).
9. Tap out powder along the length of the ski on both sides of the groove.
10. Set your iron to the correct temperature for the powder that you are using.
11. Iron along each side of the ski, ensuring that you are moving the iron quickly enough that there are not pools of wax left behind sitting on the ski.
12. Allow to cool.
13. Scrape and brush ski as normal. Make sure that the ski does not have any “white spots” of wax left on the base after brushing.
14. Match the iron temperature to wax temperature (listed on the wax container). Should not be too hot or too cold.
15. Iron just 2 or 3 times from tip to tail, always moving forward. Never run the iron over already melted wax (eg. wax still in liquid form).
16. Place iron flat down on paper towel in between waxing to keep down smoke.
17. Keep your scraper sharp. Sharp scrapers are key to reduce the number of passes needed and get better wax removal.
18. Do NOT use the same scraper to remove kick wax and glide wax. Do not leave a really hot iron outside in really cold temperatures if possible. Normal ski temps are probably ok. It can cause minor warping and you want the iron flat.
19. If you scrape wax and a flat sharp scraper does not remove much of the wax in spots on the ski, try another flat scraper, but in either case do not scrape super hard, rather let the sharp scraper do the work. (Sharpen twice, scrape once). If the same spots are not removed, you can brush it rather than going beserk with a scraper, but it usually means the bases are a bit warped. Most skis have some minor spots like this, but if severe, can be fixed by stone grinding.
20. Even without fluoros it is good practice to keep the wax area ventilated if possible. We never know what is in all these waxes and the biggest issue is burning waxes (hence resting iron on cloth at a lower temperature). If your wax area isn't super ventilated, wear an N-95 while you wax.
21. Last thing before leaving the wax bench is ALWAYS to double check that you have unplugged the iron.

Kick Zone Preparation

1. Glide wax everything but kick zone as above (use blue painters tape to mark kick zone)
2. Goal is to clean the kick zone of all old kick wax and dirt, have a well-marked kick zone and have a kick zone that has been roughed up with fine sandpaper to help the wax adhere to the ski.
3. Kick zones can be cleaned with a scraper, wax remover, and fiberlene or coffee filters. Never use the same scraper on your kick zone that you use to clean glide wax.
4. It can be helpful to heat stubborn waxes such as cold, hard klisters and warm, sticky hard waxes with a torch or heat gun before scraping. Using heat and a scraper means you will need less solvent to clean the ski.
5. To scrape off old kick wax and klister, use a scraper with a beveled edge or lay a paper towel on the kick wax or klister, run an old iron over the top of the paper and then scrape. Klister comes up with the paper towel and wax remover penetrates quicker into warm base or toilet paper. Get rid of any klister mess quickly as it has a tendency to wreck clothing.
6. Clean the sidewalls, as kick wax and klister have a tendency to collect there.
7. To sand your kick zone, wrap a piece of fine sandpaper around a cork or brush and sand back and forth with medium strokes from one end of the zone to the other with light pressure. Typically use 150 to 180 grit, but possible coarser (120) for glare ice or finer (220) for sub zero dry powder. The idea is to rough up the base of the ski enough to help the kick wax adhere to the base.
8. When skis are cold (outside - or while skiing), take a cork and rub it hard on the kick zone. That will get the waxing to stick at least in small amounts. Once wax is sticking, kick waxing gets much easier.
9. Warmer waxes come off easily and when using them sometimes a colder wax is put on underneath. This can be a colder stick wax, stick wax binder, or really thin klister in the case of icy traces. Toko Green is the traditional CSU/Weston binder but last year we switched to Vaughti GS Super. Binder layer should be thin and smooth.
10. Too much kick is likely better training than too little kick: a) wax tends to shear off over time (ice really takes off wax) b) it is hard to practice striding correctly when you are sticking too much.
11. Waxing at 32 degrees is difficult. Once snow glazes the waxing changes. Do not start with a wax that is really warm, but rather choose the temperature carefully by reading the can. Then add a warmer wax when needed. Be a minimalist - apply thin and stay well within the klister markings for your ski. Much easier to add klister than remove it.
12. When applying colder klisters outside, they will freeze. A torch works great, but without power, warm klister in an inner coat (plastic bag helps), in a thermos of hot water, or if desperate, the tailpipe of a car. If too warm it can then run too freely.
13. Always let the ski cool down after applying warm klister.
14. Sometimes in races we add a thin layer of colder stick wax on top of klister to speed them up. To “cover” the klister with a layer of stick wax, apply the klister and let the ski cool. Then apply a thin layer of stick wax followed only light fast corking (goal is not to mix klister and kick).
15. After skiing, remove the klister immediately if possible, otherwise have a paper towel, toilet paper, or plastic/bag wrap to cover the klister and avoid it getting on everything (forever).
16. For either sprays or applicators, it is easy to put too much on to one part of the ski. Practice at first.
17. Read the labels as some glide waxes have to rest for some time, rubbed or brushed w specific tools or other steps.
18. We tend to use less liquids except for top coating as historically they have been short on durability and expensive per ski. However, that is changing and it certainly is easier.
19. Some skiers use skin tech as it is the latest easy waxing craze. They have trouble in icy conditions and cold powder and they can get soggy in really wet tracks. Also, we always hope to either out wax these skis or use a race type no-wax ski such as zeros (new wet snow). (We make zero like skis by making them “hairy”.) However, they are really easy for training.
20. Prep Skin tech bottoms for glide wax like any training ski outside of the skin kicking zone. Skins or zeros are best around 32 degrees, so a good bet is to wax 32 deg wax.
21. Clean the skin tech with a cloth and a liquid skin cleaner by putting the cleaner on to fiberlene or cloth and rubbing the skin.

Please note: All graphics containing wax tips are courtesy of Boulder Nordic Sport. ski.

Building a Self-Contained, Foldable Waxing Table

Friends of the tiny apartment, the strict landlady, the fourth-floor walk-up, we hear you. The answer is simple: Build a self-contained waxing table that folds up and won’t drip on the carpet. It’s genius! You can put it on any flat surface, like the kitchen table. As you scrape your skis or snowboard, all the wax falls into the box. Two cutout slats underneath allow you to brush the wax from the table into the garbage. Fold it up and store it away with the rest of your gear. Sounds rad, right?

Construction Steps

1. Transfer your measurements from the cut sheet to the plywood. Make sure to account for “kerf,” so everything stays square for assembly. (Kerf is the divergence between saw teeth, and it defines the width of the cut.)
2. Plan your cuts to break down the plywood in the least amount of cuts. If you don’t own a saw, most hardware stores offer cutting services.
3. Start by assembling the bottoms and end caps of the boxes, followed by the two sides. If you are not using self-drilling screws, you should pre-drill holes for best results.
4. Install inner pieces to create slots that are spaced a half-inch apart. We used screws, not glue, in case we wanted to change the spacing later.
5. Install anti-skid pads to the bottoms and hinge sides of both boxes.
6. Install the side braces. Clamp and drill through the brace and the side of the box, then install and glue carriage bolts into the brace.
7. Assemble the ski/snowboard supports. Measure, cut and install the bike tube for ski/snowboard supports. Cut out the handles and wax slot.
8. Install D-rings. You’re all done! Now get stoked for the snow with a Pray for Snow party, complete with ski and snowboard waxing station.

Speeding Up Ski Bases in Warm Spring Snow

At Start Haus we’ve had quite a number of people come looking for a way to speed up the bases of their skis in this warm spring snow.

The Benefits of Waxing Your Own Skis

Waxing your own skis means you’re not relying on a shop to turn you skis around. Taking the cost of waxing over time you’ll eventually save money. This of course, is dependent on how often you ski, because a proper wax setup initially is fairly spendy. However, if you ski a lot, or have multiple pairs of skis, the investment will pay off! Waxing your skis regularly protects the base and will result in a longer life of the ski, further protecting your investment. If you’re the hands-on type, waxing your own skis is a rewarding venture.

Applying Wax to a Clean Base

Applying the wax to a clean base is paramount to success. At Start Haus we recommend against base cleaners. Base cleaners are solvents, which actually harm the base by drying it out. The best way to clean a base is to melt a wax onto the base and scrape it off while the wax is still hot. Once the base is clean, drip a good amount of hydrocarbon wax to the entire base of the ski tip to tail. Next iron the wax into the base so that all the wax is melting, but not so slowly you’re seeing smoke come up! The wax packaging should have a recommended temperature setting for the iron, be sure your iron is set to the correct temp. For best results I recommend mixing in a mid temp wax along with the warm snow wax. The warm wax, which is usually yellow in color, will wear off the base quickly in a matter of an hour or so the mid temp will keep your bases waxed throughout the day. At this point once you are happy with the ironing job the ski should be left to cool completely. The next step is to scrape the ski with a sharp plastic wax scraper. The goal here is to remove all the wax.

Ski waxing should not be a daunting task, if you’re nervous about any of the aforementioned steps feel free to practice on an old pair of skis until you get the hang of it! If you have further questions feel free to stop into Start Haus or call!

Crafting a DIY Ski Tuning Form

ski. This will be the form's base. binding. These two pieces will be the form's tip and tails supports. tip and tail supports to the base. are centred along its length as shown. nice shaped surface for your ski to rest upon. the other end. section and four screws for the tip section. tip and tail resting rather awkwardly on the supports. so let's take care of it. Flip the form onto its side. is resting on the side of the tip and tail supports. supports. the base. the binding. the contour of the ski onto the sides of the tip and tail supports. as it'll warp our supports! Gently, gently! Remove the ski. lines that you've traced. job you do the nicer your ski will rest on the form. lines. get stuck to the base of your skis. able to nicely rest your ski on top of it - fits like a glove, right? years that seems quite nice and that I like the idea of. small for storing. begin cutting the tube open lengthwise. further up into the tube and cut more. it's nice and smooth. off with it's rubber cover. Move to the tip, a cover it in rubber the same way. That's it. congratulations! You've done it!

Brushes for Ski Waxing

Chapter 12: Brushes for all levels of ski waxingWe offer a comprehensive range of hand and roto brushes for all kinds of waxes. Chapter 12: Brushes for all levels of ski waxing

TSP and Marathon Powder Application

Chapter 13: TSP and Marathon powder application tipsDiscover the expert techniques for applying TSP and Marathon powder in glide-waxing, a method used by top-level service professionals. Learn how to evenly distribute the wax, effectively use the iron, and achieve the perfect finish with brushing and polishing for optimal ski performance.Chapter 13: TSP and Marathon powder application tips

Race Ready Ski Prep with Roto Wool Application

Chapter 14: Race ready ski prep with roto wool applicationRoto wool application, increasingly popular in racing, offers a superior ski feel and efficient wax application, especially effective for hard waxes. Chapter 14: Race ready ski prep with roto wool application

Maintenance Tips for Waxing Irons

Chapter 7: Essential maintenance tips for waxing ironsEnsuring the optimal performance and longevity of your waxing iron requires proper maintenance. Chapter 7: Essential maintenance tips for waxing irons

tags: #ski #wax #table #guide

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