Dreadlocks, often called locs or dreads, have gained popularity as a unique and culturally significant hairstyle. While mature dreadlocks may seem low-maintenance, the journey to achieving healthy, well-formed locs requires patience, consistent care, and a dedicated maintenance routine. This article provides a comprehensive guide to maintaining curly hair dreadlocks, covering essential tips for moisture retention, breakage prevention, and structural integrity.
Locs are created by sectioning hair and allowing it to mat into rope-like strands. While locs can form naturally through neglect, they are commonly cultivated using techniques like twisting, braiding, backcombing, or interlocking. This hairstyle has a rich cultural history and is sometimes worn for spiritual or religious reasons.
The loc journey is typically divided into five stages, each with its own characteristics and maintenance requirements. The duration of each stage varies depending on factors such as hair texture, density, length, and maintenance routine.
The starter stage, also known as the baby stage, can last from several weeks to over a year. During this phase, hair is freshly sectioned using techniques like comb coils, twists, braids, interlocking, or freeform locs. Other starter methods include palm rolling, two-strand twists, or using a crochet hook.
When creating your own locs, it's best to start with thicker sections, as smaller, thinner locs are more prone to breakage. During this stage, the hair is fragile and prone to unraveling, so a hands-off approach, with occasional washing, is recommended to allow the locs to grow.
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The budding stage can last from six months to over a year. During this time, locs may appear puffy or frizzy at the root, with a fuzzy, uneven, or loose appearance in some areas. Regular retwisting is necessary to manage new growth, but overstyling should be avoided to prevent breakage. Retwisting frequency depends on hair growth rate, but every six weeks is a good guideline.
The teenager stage typically begins around a year and a half into the loc journey. Noticeable growth occurs, but the locs may be too short to lay flat, causing them to stick up in various spots. This stage can be awkward, depending on the initial hair length.
In the adult stage, locs thicken, become more defined, and settle into their structure. However, they may still shrink, expand, bunch, or lump unpredictably. Locs become long enough to hang down and feel less fragile. This stage usually occurs after a year and a half, but it may take longer for some individuals.
The mature or rooted stage typically occurs several years into the loc journey. Locs are firm, fully locked, and uniform, with less frizz and shrinkage and more length. Locs are longer and heavier, hanging naturally.
Whether you're a beginner or have experience with locs, these tips will help you maintain healthy, strong, and beautiful dreadlocks.
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Consistency is key to a successful hair care routine. Develop a schedule for washing and maintaining new growth to prevent thinning and breakage. Washing frequency depends on your hair type, but every two to three weeks is a good starting point. During the starter stage, you may need to wash your hair slightly more often.
When washing, ensure your locs are fully saturated with water, then use a water-soluble clarifying shampoo to keep them fresh without buildup. Clarifying shampoos contain higher concentrations of ingredients to remove sebum, product buildup, oil, and debris from the scalp and locs. When I first started washing my dreads, I would wash everything: the scalp, the locs, the ends…all of it! Your hair needs to be clean to lock properly, so make sure you’re washing it once every 5 to 10 days.
Growing locs is a journey that takes time, often years, to reach full maturity. Setbacks and awkward stages are normal. Trust the process, listen to your loctician, and be patient. Consistency is key, but your maintenance routine will evolve as you progress through the stages.
Dry, brittle dreadlocks are prone to breakage. Moisture is essential for strength and flexibility. Water is the best moisturizer, both internally through drinking plenty of water and externally through misting hair with water. If extra hydration is needed, especially in dry seasons, use a light, water-soluble leave-in conditioner or a lightweight hair oil to maintain softness, shine, and seal in moisture. The next thing I do each morning is to remove my silk bonnet (we’ll get to the bonnet later) and shake my head upside down. The third thing I’ll do is spritz my hair with a moisturizing spray. I spritz my water-based moisturizer all over my locs - I dampen my hair lightly. During the winter season, I hydrate my locs twice daily, or as needed.
Damp locs can create an environment for mildew growth and damage the hair. After washing, gently squeeze out excess water with your hands or a soft microfiber towel or jersey-fabric T-shirt. Avoid cotton materials that can leave behind lint. Washing your hair in the morning can help prevent sleeping on wet locs.
Read also: Choosing the Right Shampoo for Thin, Curly Hair
If you're short on time, use a blow dryer on medium or low heat for a few minutes, but avoid regular heat styling to prevent damage. Microfiber towels are amazing for absorbing large amounts of water and not leaving any lint or cotton pieces in your hair (like a regular towel would). The thicker your dreads are, the longer they’ll take to dry, of course. If your hair is wet for too long, the dreads can grow mold inside of them. Make sure that never happens by drying them properly in the first place.
Using too many heavy products, especially in the early stages, can lead to buildup, making locs look weighed down and dull. Less is more when it comes to product usage. Start with a small amount of lightweight, moisturizing hair care products that won't leave behind waxy residue. Limit or avoid products like clay, pomade, or gel.
A silk or satin hair wrap or bonnet is essential for preventing lint transfer and reducing friction while sleeping. For added protection, consider using a silk or satin pillowcase to further reduce friction and prevent tangles, breakage, or other damage. This cap is important for keeping your hair from attracting lint from your bedsheets, as well as preventing breakage that may occur from friction with the pillow. If you’re looking for a sexier alternative, your next best option is a satin pillowcase like this one.
Detangling products, including conditioner, are generally not necessary or recommended for locs in the beginning stages, as they can cause locs to unravel more easily.
Detangling is a debated topic in the loc community. Some believe combing or detangling mimics European beauty standards and is unnecessary. However, those with small locs or microlocs may experience tangling and knots. If you decide to detangle your dreads, use a loc comb to separate gently or use your fingers to keep the locs from merging.
Retwisting locs is necessary to incorporate new growth, but overtightening or twisting can cause thinning and excessive tension, leading to hair loss. Traction alopecia, a type of hair loss caused by pulling at the roots, commonly affects individuals with tight, spiral-curling hair. Especially in the early stages of your loc journey, it's helpful to see a loctician-a professional who can help you learn how to retwist your hair. I made this mistake at the beginning of my loc journey because I was obsessed with taming the frizz at the roots. Even though your hair can look funky in the first year (or first three years even), don’t tie it every day. Tight styling can cause your dreads to thin out.
Water plays a huge role in keeping your scalp hydrated (and the rest of your body). I notice the effects on my head within hours if I am or am not drinking enough water.
Ideally, you want to let your dreads hang loose most of the time. If you’re able to let them be free, you’re better off that way.
I find that it’s easier to shape my locs when they’re wet.
On top of my daily and weekly routine, about once a month I follow my hair washing routine with an apple cider vinegar rinse. Once the five minutes are up, rinse the ACV completely off. It won’t hurt you to leave it on, but if your scalp gets wet, you will immediately regret it. There’s nothing like the tangy smell of vinegar during a workout!
Every six months I do a deep cleanse for my hair. Some people will do it every 3 months (four times a year) but unless your hair is super dirty, I wouldn’t do it more than twice a year.
tags: #curly #hair #dreadlocks #maintenance
