Natural Curly Hairstyles Guide: Embrace Your Unique Texture
Decoding your curl type can be confusing, but understanding your hair texture can unlock a world of styling and self-love. The curl-categorization system, created by hairstylist Andre Walker, is an excellent starting point for identifying your curl pattern and shopping for the best curly hair products.
Meet the Experts
Several industry experts contribute to the understanding of curly hair, including:
- Vernon François, a hairstylist based in Los Angeles
- Anthony Dickey, a hairstylist and owner of the Hair Rules salon and brand
- Jonathan Matais-Bernard, a hairstylist based in Brooklyn
- Michelle O'Connor, a hairstylist based in Miami
- Latoya Moore, DevaCurl educator and owner of Elle Moore's Beauty based in Brooklyn, New York
- Temur Hamilton, a hairstylist and salon owner based in New York City
- Cheryl Bergamy, a hairstylist based in New York City
- Charlene Valledor, a cosmetic chemist based in Los Angeles
- Erica Douglas, a cosmetic chemist
- Kiana Rae, a curl specialist and owner of West Coast Curls
- Stevie Kennedy, a salon owner based in Oklahoma
Understanding Your Curl Type
"Your curl type is determined by the shape of the follicle that your hair grows out of from your scalp," says hairstylist Vernon François. “The flatter or more oval-shaped the follicle, the curlier your hair; the more circular the cross-section, the straighter your hair. Your curl pattern is also identified by the shape that the strands of hair make, whether they kink, curve, or wind around themselves into spirals.” Most people with textured hair have more than one pattern on their head, "so you may have a combination of, say, kinky, coily, wavy, and curly," adds François. Identifying your curl shape and pattern(s) is best determined while your hair is sopping wet.
A simple breakdown:
- Type 1s are straight.
- Type 2s are wavy.
- Type 3s are curly.
- Type 4s are coily.
The sub-classifications of A to C are based on the width or diameter of your wave, curl, or coil. Type As have a wider pattern size, Type Bs medium, and Type Cs the smallest of the three. "The real beauty of identifying your hair type is that you're better at understanding how to care for your texture so you can have more versatility," explains curl-wizard Anthony Dickey.
Read also: Best Accessories for Curly Hair
Type 2 (Wavy Hair)
Type 2 waves are fluid, can be fine to coarse, and have a signature “S” pattern that hangs closer to the head. This hair type “takes the most amount of time and work to form a curl,” says Brooklyn-based hairstylist Jonathan Matais-Bernard.
Type 2A
2A hair has a subtle, barely-there texture that's straightforward to straighten. People with this texture should be wary of using heavy styling products that can easily weigh strands down, making hair look limp. Matais-Bernard recommends opting for lightweight products that still offer "a lot of hold." To get the job done, he likes the Davines Curl Moisturizing Mousse, which "gives the perfect balance of hold and weightlessness." Because type 2A waves tend to lack volume at the roots, Dickey recommends using an airy, water-based mousse, like the Aveda Phomollient Styling Foam, to add a bit of oomph at the base.
Product Recommendations:
- Aveda Phomollient Styling Foam (Key ingredients: glycerin, vitamin E | Fragrance-free: no | Benefits: hydrating, volume-boosting)
- Davines Curl Moisturizing Mousse (Key ingredients: glycerin, panthenol | Fragrance-free: no | Benefits: hydrating, curl-defining)
Frequently Asked Questions:
- Should you brush thick 2A hair? Yes, but there's a right way to do it. Miami-based hairstylist Michelle O'Connor advises 2A'ers to avoid brushing hair when it's dry and instead reach for a wide-tooth comb or a Wet Brush on damp hair for minimized-snag detangling. Sabrina Porsche, a Los Angeles-based hair stylist, recommends prepping with a bit of leave-in conditioner before busting out your brush. "A leave-in usually acts as a detangler, so it will help glide the brush through the hair for easy brushing," she says.
- What daily hairbrush should you use for thick 2A hair? People with thick 2A hair should find a brush that tackles tangles without the ouch factor. Temur Hamilton, a hairstylist and salon owner in NYC, swears by brushes with flexible bristles, like nylon or boar. “These types of brushes are gentle, effective for detangling, and distribute product evenly while reducing frizz and breakage,” he tells Allure. He added that wide-tooth combs are also great for keeping uncomfy knots at bay.
Type 2B
2B girlies have hair that lies flatter at the crown and defined “S” waves beginning from mid-lengths. Their strands are thicker than 2A’ers and require more elbow grease to get hair pin-straight (heat-protectant, please). To enhance your surfer-babe waves, use a texturizing mist like the Ouai Wave Spray, enriched with rice protein. Ceremonia’s Guava Beach Waves Hair Texturizing Spray is another great option for moisturizing and amping your natural waves without the weight. “The struggle with Type 2 curls is longevity, so I always recommend diffusing for maximum volume and hold for curls that tend to flatten throughout the day,” says Matais-Bernard. The Curlsmith Defrizzion Travel Hair Dryer & Diffuser is excellent at cutting down on frizz and has a large surface area for tackling all your hair at once.
Product Recommendations:
- Ouai Wave Spray (Key ingredients: polymers, jackfruit, panthenol | Fragrance-free: no | Benefits: frizz-control, texturizing, style-holding)
- Ceremonia Guava Beach Waves Salt Texture Spray (Key ingredients: guava leaf extract, pink Bolivian salt | Fragrance-free: no | Benefits: volumizing, texturizing)
- Curlsmith Defrizzion Travel Hair Dryer & Diffuser (Attachments: 3 | Wattage: 1200 | Benefits: fast-drying, portable, diffusing)
Frequently Asked Questions:
- How to style 2B hair: "Scrunch [2B hair] with a lightweight mousse or curl cream and air-dry or diffuse," says O'Connor. "Diffusing is an instant option, especially in winter months or when you don't have all day to dry your hair, and when done on a low speed with low heat, your hair can still maintain maximum health," she adds.
- How to take care of 2B hair: O’Connor explains that sulfate-free, moisturizing shampoos are key for keeping 2B frizz in check. NYC-based hair stylist Cheryl Bergamy agrees, urging her clients to keep an eye out for ingredients like coconut oil, which “penetrates deep into the hair shaft to strengthen and provide lasting moisture, helping to prevent breakage,” and avocado oil, because it’s “packed with vitamins (like A, D, and E) and fatty acids to nourish hair, add shine, and improve softness.”
Type 2C
2C waves are thicker and more susceptible to frizz, with more definition in the “S”-bends that begin at the root. Between shampoos, 2C’ers can opt for a non-lathering, sulfate-free co-wash to avoid stripping essential moisture from strands. Dickey also recommends layering a leave-in conditioner under a mousse to lock in your natural wave pattern while adding hydration. The Verb Curl Leave-In Conditioner and the Design Essentials Natural Almond & Avocado Curl Enhancing Mousse are great options.
Product Recommendations:
- As I Am Coconut Cleansing Conditioner (Key ingredients: coconut oil, shea butter | Fragrance-free: no | Benefits: strengthening, hydrating, frizz-control, softening)
- Verb Curl Leave In Conditioner (Key ingredients: sunflower seed extract, vegetable protein | Fragrance-free: no | Benefits: lightly-defining, smoothing, hydrating)
- Design Essentials Almond & Avocado Curl Enhancing Mousse (Key ingredients: almond oil, avocado oil, panthenol | Fragrance-free: no | Benefits: shine-boosting, non-greasy)
Frequently Asked Questions:
- How to use curling mousse on 2C hair: Before using a curling mousse on your 2C hair, make sure it's the right match for your pattern. "It's important you first identify your curl type, then find out what products are meant for you," hairstylist Irinel de León tells Allure. "This is so important because you could be using a product that's either too light or heavy for your curls which could either cause frizz, leave buildup, or leave your strands limp."
- How to style 2C hair: When it comes to mousse, technique matters. Massage the product into your towel-dried hair, starting at the roots and working down to the ends. Use a comb to detangle before flipping your head upside down and scrunching in the product with your fingers. From there, whip out your diffuser for a quick blow dry, or just chill, letting it air-dry-either way, you're set. "It's as much about the styling technique as it is about the formulation," adds cosmetic chemist Charlene Valledor.
Type 3 (Curly Hair)
Type 3 curly hair can range from loose, buoyant loops to tight, springy corkscrews with shine. Care practices for curlier girlies tend to be more comprehensive than those of wavier women.
Read also: Taming Frizzy Hair: Read More
Type 3A
3A strands tend to be shiny with broader, looser curls that have a diameter about the size of a piece of sidewalk chalk (TBT). To swiftly style 3A hair, work a dollop or two of curl cream or mousse (like the Best of Beauty Award-winning SGX NYC Curl Power Nourishing Curl Cream) into your damp hair, "raking it through with your hands from roots to ends, and scrunching out the excess water," explains Matais-Bernard. Doing so will help define the curls' texture and hydrate them in the process. Refrain from touching your hair after applying the products, or you'll risk sparking a frizz halo. Spritz your hair with a curl refresher to maintain those bouncy coils, like the Carol's Daughter Hair Milk Nourishing & Conditioning Refresher Spray. This formula is lightweight, defining, and smells like yummy, sweet almonds.
Product Recommendations:
- SGX NYC Curl Power Nourishing Curl Cream (Key ingredients: coconut oil, shea butter | Fragrance-free: no | Benefits: frizz-fighting, defining, shine-boosting, hydrating)
- Carol's Daughter Hair Milk Curl Refresher Spray (Key ingredients: agave, sunflower seed extract, calendula extract, panthenol | Fragrance-free: no | Benefits: softening, hydrating, frizz-fighting, detangling)
Frequently Asked Questions:
- How to take care of 3A hair: "For 3A hair, hydration is key," says Latoya Moore, DevaCurl educator and owner of Elle Moore's Beauty in Brooklyn, New York City. "Use moisturizing products and leave-in conditioner regularly, and at night, use the 'pineapple' method, which is gathering hair into a loose high ponytail, to preserve curl shape and definition." O'Connor echoes Moore, emphasizing the importance of "hydrating shampoos, lightweight conditioners, and a leave-in cream to fight frizz."
- How often should you wash 3A hair: “3A hair should be washed one to two times a week because overwashing can strip essential oils, leading to frizzy, dry strands,” explains Moore. If your hair craves a refresh in between wash days, O’Connor suggests co-washing, the practice of cleansing with a conditioner or a shampoo alternative. However, co-washing shouldn’t be a replacement for traditional shampoo sudsing.
Type 3B
On The Science of Beauty, cosmetic chemist Erica Douglas explains that co-washing involves using conditioner instead of shampoo to cleanse and remove hair buildup. This texture trends dry, so stay stocked with curl gels formulated with hydration-locking humectants, like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, (familiar skin-care ingredients that serve similar functions), and aloe vera extract to attract moisture. Give the glycerin-rich Mielle Organics Honey & Ginger Styling Gel or the Curls Goddess Botanical Gel, another hydrating and defining pick. Word to the wise: "Apply when [your hair is] wet, so you'll get definition without frizz," urges Dickey.
Product Recommendations:
- Mielle Organics Honey & Ginger Styling Gel (Key ingredients: honey, ginger, aloe extract | Fragrance-free: no | Benefits: hydrating, curl-refreshing, defining)
- Curls Goddess Botanical Gel (Key ingredients: plumeria alba extract, aloe vera extract | Fragrance-free: no | Benefits: light hold, defining, hydrating, heat-protecting)
Frequently Asked Questions:
- How to take care of 3B hair: "The key to 3B hair is gentle handling, moisture, and using the right products to define and hydrate the curls," says Moore. "Detangle using a brush, your fingers, or a wide-tooth comb on damp hair to prevent breakage." She stresses the importance of trimming 3B hair every three to four months to nix split ends.
- How to style 3B hair: To style 3B hair, O'Connor recommends using a curl cream or gel on damp or wet hair before scrunching or diffusing to accentuate and hydrate curls. "It's 100% better to apply any styling product-cream, gel, and/or mousse-on soaking wet hair," Kiana Rae, curl specialist and owner of West Coast Curls in Los Angeles, tells Allure. "Curly hair is more prone to dryness, so we require so much water. Curl-friendly products are activated with water, so [they] won't weigh our hair down."
Type 3C
Type 3C curls resemble tight corkscrews with diameters comparable to straws or pencils. Strands are densely gathered, giving way to lots of natural volume. Frizziness is to be expected in 3C hair, so if you're trying to mitigate fluff and flyaways, reach for a sulfate-free, non-drying, creamy cleanser like the Oyin Handmade Ginger Mint Co-Wash. Dickey also likes layering a mousse (such as the 2020 Best of Beauty-winning Rucker Roots Texture Styling Mousse) over a styling cream (like the Eden BodyWorks Coconut Shea Curl Defining Creme) when the hair is sopping wet to allow curls to clump together and form faster.
Styling Tips for All Curl Types
- Start with a good cut: Find a curly specialist who understands curl patterns and can cut your hair accordingly. A dry cut is highly recommended.
- Put down the brush: Use a wide-tooth comb in the shower when your conditioner is in, and that is it.
- Take a break from shampoo: Wash your hair 2-3 times a week to avoid drying it out.
- Use a diffuser: Dry your hair with a diffuser on medium heat and full blast until it's about 60% dry.
- Be patient: Caring for curly hair is a learning process. It takes time and patience to figure out what works best for your hair.
Curly Hair and the Outdoors
Being outside can be a struggle when you are a curly-haired adventurer. Getting your hair wet can mean accepting that it won’t dry the same way it was before. Heat, moisture, and humidity can also do unspeakable things to your hair.
Styling Tips for Outdoor Activities
- Protective styles: Braids, twists, and updos are great for protecting your hair from the elements.
- Hydration is key: Make sure your hair is moisturized, especially in dry climates.
- Hats and helmets: Wear hats and helmets to protect your hair from the sun and wind.
- Products: Use products that are designed for curly hair and that will help to keep your hair moisturized and protected.
Advice from Adventurous Curly-Haired Individuals
- Brittany Leavitt (Curl Type: 4b/4c): "As a black woman I take pride in my hair. For me that means learning how to manage it without over manipulation (e.g.- combs, twisting, or heat). I have learned different tips and life hacks from experience."
- Sam Ortiz (Curl Type: 2c/3a): "Embrace the beauty!"
- Brooklyn Bell (Curl Type: Suppa Fine 4a): "Hair is hair lol."
- Heidy Khlaaf (Curl Type: 3b): "Keep rocking that hair, it's worth it!"
- Bethany Lebewitz (Curl Type: 3b): "Shoot, everyone has their own hair challenges for sure. I think mine are keeping my hair hydrated and happy."
A Simple Styling Routine for Naturally Curly Hair
If you want to wear your hair down and curly once in a while, here's an easy styling routine:
Read also: Choosing the Right Shampoo for Thin, Curly Hair
- Get in the shower: Rinse your hair well.
- Shampoo with hardly any shampoo: Use less shampoo than usual, or skip it altogether.
- Condition with double your usual amount of conditioner: Fully saturate your whole head with conditioner, and don’t rinse all of it out.
- Dump your head upside down and use your fingers to detangle your hair: Gently detangle your hair while directing your hair away from your scalp.
- Rinse some of the conditioner out: Use the water to get your curls to clump together, but leave most of the conditioner in.
- Start forming your curls or waves: Press the ends of your hair up towards your scalp.
- Apply your styling product: Glaze the product over your hair, then press the ends of your hair up towards your scalp.
- “Plopping”: Wrap your hair in an old t-shirt to absorb excess water.
- “Unplop”: Gently take the t-shirt off and shake your curls back and away from your face.
- Do nothing: Leave your hair alone until it is dry.
- Scrunch out the crunch: Gently squeeze your hair up, from the ends towards the roots, to get rid of any crunchiness.
- Admire your shiny, hydrated, frizz-free curls: Enjoy your natural curls!
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