Side combs are more than just a vintage hair tool; they are relics of the past, echoing through centuries of evolving fashion and societal shifts. These accessories, once deemed essential, offer a glimpse into the hairstyles, materials, and craftsmanship that defined different eras. From their practical uses to their decorative flair, side combs have played a significant role in women's lives, reflecting both their daily routines and their aspirations for beauty and style.
Hair combs, in their most basic form, date back to the earliest times. Initially crafted from natural materials such as wood, bones, ivory, and feathers, these early combs were functional tools for grooming and keeping hair in order. Over time, they evolved from flat, utilitarian objects into curved pieces designed to better fit the contours of the head. Embellishments like gems and painted designs transformed them into decorative items, signifying status and personal style.
Tortoiseshell, derived from the outer layer of a turtle shell (primarily the Hawksbill species), emerged as a luxury material prized for its warm-toned, marbled appearance, translucency, and durability. It was a natural precursor to synthetic plastics and had been used in both Asia and the West for centuries. Tortoiseshell could be fashioned into thin sheets for decorative veneers on furniture or crafted into small, practical, and ornamental objects like boxes and jewelry. Its ability to be softened, heated, and molded into various shapes made it ideal for creating the compound curves found in hair combs.
During the Victorian era, decorative combs became indispensable for securing the false hair needed to achieve the illusion of voluminous tresses. Mass manufacturing, spurred by the Civil War, made combs adorned with paste jewels accessible to a broader segment of the population. Large, straight combs in fan shapes took center stage, complemented by smaller side and curved back combs.
Hair combs played a crucial role in achieving the popular upswept hairdos of the time. An 1862 edition of Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine highlighted their importance, noting how they were used to arrange plaits and puffs in endless variety. The publication also offered advice on selecting combs for different occasions: light tortoiseshell with small pearls for daytime and gold, either plain or studded with pearls, coral, steel, gilt, or precious stones, for evening wear.
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Interestingly, the same magazine encouraged readers to create their own fancy combs using cardboard, beads, and a small plain comb, demonstrating a blend of high fashion and do-it-yourself ingenuity.
Throughout the 19th century, hair combs were crafted from a variety of materials, including steel, gilt metal, brass, and horn. Tortoiseshell remained popular, particularly following the trend of the Spanish mantilla, but its increasing scarcity led to the adoption of gutta-percha as a substitute. Horn, however, emerged as the most plentiful and popular material due to its affordability, flexibility, and ease of manipulation. It could be easily cut, bent, stretched, pierced, or carved, and it readily lent itself to imitating the coveted tortoiseshell pattern.
Decorative hair combs of the 19th century showcased a range of styles, from Gothic and Renaissance to Napoleonic and Oriental designs, reflecting the diverse influences of the era.
The French town of Oyonnax played a pivotal role in the history of hair combs. While the trade of "comb maker" was documented there as early as 1667, it was in the 19th century that local manufacturing expertise truly flourished. By 1880, Oyonnax had earned the title of the world capital of luxury hair accessories, exporting its creations globally.
The modernization of tools and materials coincided with the emergence of Art Nouveau in the early 20th century, leading to the creation of combs that were veritable objets d'art by jewelers like Lalique and Vever. These artistic endeavors fostered the development of renowned Oyonnaxian brands such as Auguste Bonaz and Clément Joyard. The combs of this period were meticulously sculpted, decorated, and adorned with stones, some of which were exhibited at world fairs.
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Even today, Oyonnax remains a center for luxury hair accessory manufacturing in France, preserving the know-how and hand-making techniques passed down through generations.
Auguste Bonaz, a French comb and jewelry designer, stands out for his innovative use of celluloid, one of the first plastics. Established in the mid-19th century by Cesar Bonaz, the business was later joined by his son, Auguste. With the advent of celluloid, Bonaz embraced the new material, showcasing its color options and malleability in his designs. Rather than merely replicating tortoiseshell and horn, Bonaz appreciated celluloid as a decorative medium in its own right.
In the 1940s, a vintage hair accessory was essential for every classy woman. While working women often opted for knit hair snoods, head scarves, turbans, or bandannas, hair flowers and bows added a touch of elegance to day or evening wear. The modern vintage pinup look embraced hair flowers and hair clips as alternatives to hats.
The Grip-Tuth® Hairtainer combs gained significant popularity during World War II as a replacement for metal bobby pins, which were rationed due to the war effort. The original gripping teeth, designed by Lester Thorndike Sawyer in the 1920s, provided a secure hold, addressing the common issue of combs slipping out of place.
Plastics became a saving grace for women during the war. In beauty parlors, customers were encouraged to recycle their metal hair pins. With long hair still in vogue, women needed practical solutions for keeping their hair up and out of the way while working. The Grip-Tuth® Hairtainer Hair Combs proved to be the perfect solution.
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While hair combs may not be as ubiquitous as they once were, they continue to hold a special place in the world of fashion and beauty. Their enduring appeal lies in their ability to evoke a sense of nostalgia and timeless elegance. Period-accurate hairstyles, often enhanced with vintage hair combs, can significantly enhance an overall look, transporting one back to a bygone era.
Back combs, worn tucked into the back hair, serve a decorative purpose, adding a touch of sophistication. During the late 1850s and early 1860s, when back hair was dressed low on the head/neck, these combs were primarily visible from behind, contributing to the overall aesthetic without being overly conspicuous.
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