Long eyelashes have been considered a symbol of beauty and allure for millennia. From ancient civilizations to modern-day trends, the quest for longer, fuller lashes has driven innovation and shaped beauty standards. Let’s dive into the captivating history of false eyelashes, exploring their evolution from rudimentary enhancements to the glamorous accessories we know today.
The story of eyelash enhancement begins in ancient Egypt, around 3500 BC. Both men and women used brushes and ointments to darken their lashes, seeking to achieve a voluminous, fluttery look. Materials like malachite were used to color the lashes, while kohl, a black putty made of lead sulphide, was applied to the eyes. Kohl not only enhanced the appearance of the lashes but also had anti-bacterial properties, protecting the eyes from infections. Eyelash enhancements and other beauty treatments were prized for beauty and functionality in ancient Egypt. But what was invented looks quite different than the extensions we know and love!
Around 753 BC, the Romans also embraced eyelash enhancement. The philosopher Pliny the Elder claimed that short lashes were a sign of aging, leading Romans to seek ways to enhance their lashes. They used burnt cork and coal to darken their lashes, aiming for a glamorous look. The Romans also believed that long lashes were a symbol of morality and virginity, further fueling the desire for enhanced lashes.
During the Middle Ages, eyelash enhancements experienced fluctuating popularity. The church decreed that excessive hair was erotic, leading women to pluck out their eyelashes and eyebrows to expose more of their foreheads. This practice was dangerous, as eyelashes serve a vital function in protecting the eyes from dust and debris. The trend quickly fell out of fashion. Women were soon dyeing their lashes red in private by using toxic substances.
Makeup gained popularity during the Victorian era. Eugene Rimmel, the perfumer to Queen Victoria, created the first mascara in the mid-1800s. His formula consisted of Vaseline jelly and coal dust, a non-toxic blend that became prevalent among women.
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The late 1800s saw some daring attempts to lengthen eyelashes. In 1882, Parisian women were reported to sew hairs onto their eyelids for enhancement. There were even reports of women getting eyelashes implanted with needles, a procedure that unsurprisingly did not become popular. Around 1899, The Dundee Courier ran a story about the implant procedure. An ordinary fine needle is threaded with a long hair, generally taken from the head of the person to be operated upon. The lower border of the eyelid is then thoroughly cleaned, and so that the process may be as painless as possible rubbed with a solution of cocaine. The operator then with a few skillful touches runs his needle through the extreme edges of the eyelid between the epidermis and the lower border of the cartilage of the tragus. The needle passes in and out along the edge of the lid leaving its hair thread in loops of carefully graduated lengths.
In 1911, a Canadian inventor named Anna Taylor patented artificial eyelashes. Her invention included glue-on strip lashes that were thought to be made from human hair.
Around the same time, a German hairdresser named Karl Nessler (also known as Charles Nestle) provided a false lash service at his New York City salon. He advertised them as a guard against the glare of electric lights. In 1902, Karl Nessler, a German-born hair specialist and inventor, patented "A New or Improved Method of and Means for the Manufacture of Artificial Eyebrows, Eyelashes and the like" in the United Kingdom. By 1903, he began selling artificial eyelashes at his London salon on Great Castle Street. He used the profits from his sales to fund his next invention, the permanent wave (perm) machine.
While American film director, David Griffith, is falsely credited with the invention of lashes in 1916. This accusation happened because he told a movie wigmaker to use hair to embellish silent actress Seena Owen’s eyes during the making of the film Intolerance. Griffith noticed that actress Seena Owen’s eyes didn’t stand out enough on film. He appointed a wig maker to create larger eyelashes for her. The wig maker wove human hair through gauze and glued them to the actress's eyelids. After this, the bigger eyelashes women could achieve the better.
The eyelash curler was invented in 1931 by William McDonell of Kurlash. In 1933, Maybelline sold a small cosmetic package in drugstores for ten cents. It contained mascara and an eyelash curler. Waterproof mascara became popular during these years, and Revlon released their first spiral tip wand mascara in 1958.
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In the 20s and ’30s advertisements featuring women with huge eyelashes appeared in Vogue. Stars like Marilyn Monroe, Judy Garland and Rita Hayworth all wore voluminous lashes. By the 50s fake eyelashes became a staple in western culture.
The ’60s saw women copying Twiggy’s big dramatic doll-like look, with fake lashes on the top and bottom lashes, with 20 million pairs sold. Thick, dark, spidery lashes were made famous by supermodel Twiggy in the 60s. Then, in the 70s, Maybelline Great Lash first released water-based mascara in 1971. This mascara has gone on to be one of Maybelline’s top sellers. Turpentine is a highly toxic ingredient containing lead kohl and aniline, a hair dye ingredient. Mauve and dark green mascaras became popular colored mascaras in 1960.
In the 70s and 80s the false eyelash look began to fade with women favouring their natural lashes, but the ’90s saw a swing to the false lash look once again. During the 1990s and 2000’s semi-permanent lash extensions were born.
In 1947, the Aylott brothers, British makeup artists in the film industry, formed a company called Eyelure. This was one of the first known companies to manufacture false lashes. Their lashes were used in iconic films like Cleopatra and on famous fashion models. This made striking lashes all the rage!
MAC was founded in 1984 in Toronto, giving way to equipping professionals with high-quality cosmetics. Max Factor boasted a no-color mascara in 1988, and hair mascara became popular.
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Lash extensions were developed in the early 2000s in Korea and became increasingly popular by celebrities in 2004. Fine hairs are glued onto your natural lashes with professional-grade lash glue. Lashes can be customized to fit the client’s style and preference. Refills are performed to replace individual lashes that have fallen out due to natural shedding. Your lashes are shed completely every six weeks. As your lashes fall out, the extension falls out with it. In the United States, each state regulates eyelash extensions. In the United Kingdom, the Guild of Professional Beauty Therapists accredits courses for the safe application of semi-permanent individual eyelash extensions. Overall, lash extensions can also be classified into different styles. There is a classic set, which is the most natural form of lashes, as well as a volume set, which is considered the fullest style.
Magnetic lashes were patented in 2014 by Katy Stoka. Magnetic lashes are false strip lashes with tiny magnets attached to them. After the liner is applied, the lash band is laid on top to make the magnetic connection. Magnetic lashes form a solid magnetic bond to the magnetic liner, offering all-day waterproof wear. Magnetic lashes and other types of false lashes offer you the ability to skip the mascara altogether. Some people opt to wear a thin coat of mascara while wearing fake lashes, and that is ok, as long as the mascara is applied in a very thin layer. Glamnetic launched in July 2019, when founder Ann McFerran decided to develop a solution to traditional messy falsies that required glue. Glamnetic magnetic lashes offer natural styles and long, fluffy sets.
In 2001, a medicated eye drop was invented to help patients with glaucoma. After the medication’s use, patients saw a dramatic lengthening and darkening of their natural lashes.
False eyelashes have come a long way over the years. It seems that eyelashes have been an obsession throughout history. Today falsies are a way of expression and are worn primarily for fashion and fun. The false eyelash market is predicted to reach £1.6 billion by 2025. Longer fuller lashes can help women feel more confident and many women wear them daily as they save time in applying mascara to their natural lashes. False eyelashes were a symbol of prestige and royalty for centuries before they became a luxury that we wear now for cosmetic reasons. It has often been said that the eyes are the windows to the soul.
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