Ethiopia, a land steeped in ancient history and diverse cultures, boasts a fascinating array of traditional hairstyles. These styles, far from being mere fashion statements, are deeply intertwined with social status, age, marital status, and ethnic identity. From the intricate braids of young girls to the ochre-covered hairstyles of married women, Ethiopian hairstyles offer a glimpse into the country's rich cultural heritage. While modern influences have led to a decline in the everyday prevalence of these styles in major towns, they remain a potent symbol of Ethiopian identity, often proudly displayed in homes and celebrated in art.
Braids (known as sheruba in Amharic) and Afros (Goferay in Amharic) are fundamental to Ethiopian hairstyles. Dreadlocks, often seen on monks and pilgrims, also hold cultural significance. While these styles may not be as ubiquitous in urban centers as they once were, they persist, particularly in rural areas, and are often showcased in photographs and artistic representations.
The historical importance of Ethiopian hairstyles is underscored by a set of stamps issued by the Ethiopian Post Office many years ago. These stamps depicted various tribes donning unique and stylistic hairstyles from regions like Arussi, Bale, Begemedir (Gonder), Shoa, and Kaffa. Intriguingly, some of these hairstyles bear resemblance to those worn by ancient Egyptians and Pharaohs, highlighting the connections between Ethiopian culture and the Nile Basins. The presence of traditions and cultural practices in Ethiopia that are now absent in other parts of the Nile valley, such as headrests, sistrums, ear wax cleaners, and reed raincoats, further emphasizes Ethiopia's role as a preserver of ancient customs.
While men often sport Afros, braiding is also a traditional practice. Historical figures like Emperor Tewodros and Yohannes are well-known examples of men who wore braids.
Traditional hairstyles are not limited to adults; specific styles exist for children as well.
Read also: Future of Fashion
Mischievous toddlers often receive a Quntcho, a Mohawk-like haircut. In Amharic, this style is called "Kuntcho". This involves leaving a tuft of hair on top of a shaved head. Tradition holds that angels will use this tuft to pull children out of trouble.
Qaray involves a narrow strip of hair allowed to grow from the mid-forehead to the back of the neck, with the rest of the head shaved. While reminiscent of the Mohawk hairstyle in the United States, Qaray has been a tradition for young boys in Ethiopia for centuries. It is important to note that Qaray is specifically a hairstyle for children and not intended for sexually mature or married individuals. In the United States, a similar style among African Americans is sometimes called a Black Mohawk or Fro Hawk.
Young girls sometimes receive a haircut that includes a shaved top surrounded by a halo of Afro-style hair.
Sadula is worn by teenager maidens, virgins and unmarried maidens. It involves shaving the hair on the top of the head while leaving the outlying fringes unshaven. The shaven hair is allowed to grow only after the women have matured and married. The first growth of this shaven hair after marriage is called Endermamit or Fesesay. The unshaven fringe is either braided or styled into an Afro.
Zur Gamay is another name for Gamay Sheruba, a style worn by young unmarried girls. Gamay Sheruba is essentially a Sadula hairstyle that incorporates braids.
Read also: Hairspray Buying Guide
Endermamit and Fesesay are synonymous terms referring to the one-year growth of new hair from the previously shaved area in a Sadula hairstyle after a young virgin girl marries.
Gofeiray refers to any hairstyle that involves the abundant growth of woolly hair, known as an Afro in the West.
Gufta is a hairstyle commonly practiced by the Oromo and Gurage people. The hair is combed into a fluffy Goferay (Afro).
Eshem is a thick, large braid worn by women, and historically by men. It is essentially a large cornrow that begins at the forehead and extends to the back of the neck. While tradition does not dictate the number of cornrow braids, Eshem offers a convenient alternative for those who find fine cornrow braiding too time-consuming. Eshem Dereb implies a double Eshem. Gungun is a specific type of Eshem braid.
Mertu is a traditional hairstyle among the Ethiopian Oromo people. The hair is braided in a rope-like fashion (twisted around) and ends in a tuft of hair. This is not done in the style of a cornrow. The hair and scalp are often conditioned with ghee (an organic conditioner commonly used by Ethiopians), giving the hairstyle a glossy appearance. Mertu is also practiced by other ethnic groups, such as the Gurage, where it is also weaved like a rope.
Read also: Beach Waves Hairstyle Guide
Ethiopia's diverse ethnic groups contribute to the richness of its traditional hairstyles.
Hamar Bumi and Karo women in southwestern Ethiopia have distinct hairstyles based on their marital status. Unmarried women rub fat into their hair, creating small balls, and then cover them with ochre. After marriage, they transform their hairstyle by changing the balls into long, twisted strands rubbed with ochre.
Hamar Bumi and Karo men wear clay hair buns that signify the killing of an enemy or a dangerous animal. This hairdo can last up to a year. A small holder is made above the forehead to hold ostrich feathers.
Afar women that are unmarried wear their hair as hanging ringlets.
Afar men frizzle their hair into a fuzzy mop.
The term "Tchefrer" or "Fuzzy Wuzzy" was coined by the British and is mentioned as a historical note. Ethiopians in the borderlands near the Red Sea were often described as "Fuzzy Wuzzy" people. The Beni Amir, Besharin, Amrar, Bilen, Afar, Saho, and Hadendowa tribes, among others, exhibit an exaggerated Afro. This hairstyle gave them a fierce appearance to their enemies. These tribes were never conquered since Roman times. The British, upon encountering them, called them "Fuzzy Wuzzies" without understanding their culture, language, or origin. Previously, the Romans and Greeks considered them as apes who resided in the ground and classified them as Troglodytes.
Nazrawi refers to a Christian monk who wears his hair in a Goferey (Afro style combined with dreadlocks) and wraps a long chain several times around his shoulders and waist. This monk or pilgrim also carries a long metal rod topped with a crucifix.
In past centuries, when elephants were plentiful in Ethiopia, an elephant killer (Zehon Gedaye) proudly displayed their status by wearing the Buqedaday sash (headband) as a sign of valor. The narrow sash, usually green, yellow, and red (the Ethiopian national symbol) over a white background, covers part of the forehead and is tied at the back of the head near the nape. An extra piece of the sash usually dangled down the back from the knot.
Butter plays a significant role in maintaining certain Ethiopian hairstyles. As photographer Eric Lafforgue explains, the Afar people apply butter to keep their curls in place, resulting in a look reminiscent of Victorian ladies or Rastas. The Karrayyu also utilize butter, with newly married young men making a hole in their "gunfura" (afro haircut) and applying butter in the morning. Throughout the day, the butter permeates the hair and drips down the neck. Karrayyu girls also use butter on their hair. Other tribes, such as the Borana and Hamer, also incorporate butter into their hair care routines. The Borana believe it protects their scalps from the sun, while the Hamer mix it with red ochre for a striking effect. The Hamar, a semi-nomadic tribe of cattle herders, have unique rituals associated with the use of butter as a beauty product, especially in wedding traditions. Women also use the butter mixture to keep their dreadlocks in place, using stones and knives to cut them.
tags: #ethiopian #traditional #hairstyles
